Wheel Alignment

jeffko · #1 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 08:17 AM

Just took my car over to get a wheel alignment and had to leave with the car close but not right. I am not all together knowledgeable about suspensions, but they told me either they would have to slot the adustment holes by an adittional 3/8" to get withing specs or I should ask the manufacturer for special adjusting plates. They are .5 degree out from getting just inside of specs for the caster/camber on the back and a little less on the front. Have any of you guys run into this preoblem? They spent over an hour on the car and so far the bill is $140, with $40 discount and it is not over yet. The owner thought it was pretty cool that I built the engine. By the way I choose this particular Goodyear shop because they also do restores and race a modified Nova. In other words, not just parts changers. None the less it leave me stuck in the middle of them and BDR. I am getting tired of going back to Reg, and I really think I should not be having these kind of problems. Any help would be appreciated guys.

uncltodd · #2 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 11:07 AM

Jeffco, misery loves company.

Had #139 aligned about a month ago, toe-in was a tiny bit off on both fronts, rears were dead-on.

Cost me $45 plus a 10-mile check ride.

Newish Hunter machine, experienced alignment guy.

Got rid of 80% of my chassis vibration problem after they balanced the tires and did the alignment, but the vibes through my butt at certain RPM's are still there.

I have decided that a hand-built car with an overpowered Ford-based engine, with a 13" driveshaft, BMW suspension, that only weighs 2500 LB is gonna vibrate.

I've learned to live with it.

I'm gonna change Gunrack's nickname to Raymond.

'Cause everybody loves Raymond.

Every "real" mechanic loves Raymond, so far.

They can actually work on it, not just hook it up to a computer that tells them whch module to replace.

And I thought a girl in college was a financial black hole...

UT

Cashburn · #3 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 01:58 PM

Yes you can slot them for additional adjustment. You can also buy adjustable BMW aftermarket plates and swap them in since get this ... it has BMW suspension.

jeffko · #4 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 02:38 PM

Cashburn, should this really be at my expense? What do you think uncltodd? I believe I bought a car that was complete less engine, trans & ignition. Clearly they provided a suspension that will not even meet their own specs. The whole reason I bought a roller was to avoid these kinds of problems. I have enjoyed building the engine and finishing this car. However, it gets a little frustrating when you have to redrill and tap door because 2 out of 4 bolts were overtightened and stripped. Which consequently caused the paint damage to the body side of the door jamb. Trust me, the list goes on. Sorry guys, what I really want is suggestions on what the problem is before I go to Reg with it. I want to make sure the alignment guy was right.

uncltodd · #5 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 05:17 PM

Jeffco, I'm sorry.

BDR and I go back to March, '04.

I'm proud to own a BDR but...

PM me.

UT

Cashburn · #6 (**permalink**) 06-12-2005, 05:18 PM

What "spec" are you attempting to achieve? And ... who is your dealer? Is the dealer ignoring you?

Cashburn · #7 (**permalink**) 06-13-2005, 07:43 AM

BTW there is a post in here somewhere from Tony Martin outlining the alignment procedure with specs. Also mentions "plates" they have designed. It's in here somewhere.

Cashburn · #8 (**permalink**) 06-14-2005, 02:22 PM

Still curious what specs they are attempting to align it to?

jeffko · #9 (**permalink**) 06-14-2005, 03:14 PM

I am using the specs that came with the car in the installation brochure. It is titled as alignment specs and references bmw e36 platform. My dealer has NEVER been any much help at all so I have quite calling on him. He would simply pass me on to Reg. I have had good results with Reg. However, he is too busy to attend to just me so I have to be patient if you will. I do think that I have encountered more problems than I bargained for and certainly are within BDR's ability to avoid. At first they were a bit of a challenge, but now are becoming very frustrating. So on and so on....

Thanks,
Jeff

Cashburn · #10 (**permalink**) 06-14-2005, 03:32 PM

Have you set the ride height? Are you real low or maybe too high? We've had no trouble getting these lined up good so far. That does not mean something can not be wrong here.

Trying to help. These are all typical growing pains for the most part... usually spread over several cars, you just seem to have hit the lottery.

Don't give up, the rewards are great.

jeffko · #11 (**permalink**) 06-14-2005, 08:31 PM

Thanks for hanging in there with me Cashburn... Hey what do you guys do to setup the ride height. The car rides pretty hard and even looks low so I was wondering about what would be a good start for ride height.

I am ear to ear grin everytime I drive it. I really want to make the London show, but I am starting to have doubts. Can't really rotate these tires and I can not go anywhere with this clutch problem.

jeffko · #12 (**permalink**) 06-15-2005, 10:42 AM

Reg is sending me some new brackets, but he did question me about ride height. I want to get the ride height adjusted before that start the re-alignment. I am not much of a suspension guy but it looks like I have coil in the front and struts in the back. What is the procedure and heights I need?

Thanks,
Jeff

Cashburn · #13 (**permalink**) 06-15-2005, 11:38 AM

Believe it or not we set it so "it looks good" ... yeah it's not science but we use the coilovers to achieve the best stance for the car. Keep in mind this could mean a different setting on all four corners to balance it out.

Here is a pic of a car we setup this weekend (look at the fender to tire gaps for reference):

We never have to touch the rear height, seems Reg and crew always set it well. The front is a piece of cake to adjust. Simply jack the front end up and spin the lower spring stop up or down depending on which direction you need to go. Measure the change on one side and repeat it on the other (the amount you spin the stop up or down) since they maybe starting and ending in different spots.

For reference in this picture:

Spring is bright red, seat is light grey just below it, and just below that is dark grey stop you are adjusting.

When you let the car down you need to make sure the spring seats properly in the upper mount/seat too since it can come loose when you fully jack it and take the compression off.

Just want to add that the example photo here is a car with no engine or transmission so it is really cranked down to simulate ride stance for photos.

Cashburn · #14 (**permalink**) 06-15-2005, 11:46 AM

And I noticed you are running the 15" wheels... make sure you keep the tires under 28psi or so. Another poster on here had the right recommendation before. You want to run those tires a little softer to smooth out the ride. I've only been dealing with 17" setups so my experience is not as strong as theirs.

jeffko · #15 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 05:07 AM

So just adjust the front to match the back and let's say the back should be somewhere around 1.5" from top of tire to bottom of wheel well body flair. Check air in tires for 28 psi and I should be set for final alignment. Thanks Cashburn.

Cashburn · #16 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 08:24 AM

Yup. And remember, negative camber is a good thing.

uncltodd · #17 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 09:41 AM

Called Reg's tech guy from my alignment shop, he told me to use '95325i sedan specs, saw a great improvement in vibration.

Manual?

You got a manual?

All I got was an invoice.

UT

jeffko · #18 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 10:34 AM

I got a manual and it said to use 92-99 3series E36. Then BDR adds a few specs of their own specific to the Cobra. I can fax you a copy if you want.

madmaxx · #19 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 11:10 AM

It is fine to use the specs, bottom line the front camber and caster are not adjustable. So unless you have adjustment plates or a die grinder your not adjusting much. It would be pretty hard to have toe out to much.

badrich · #20 (**permalink**) 06-16-2005, 11:30 AM

Jeffco: Once you get you machine properly aligned, you may want to get it corner balanced. It can make a real difference in how your car will handle during "spirited" driving. Just my two bits worth. Rich