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Clutch master cylinder
It seems after 600 miles my Clutch master cylinder has gone the way others have.
It is leaking on the inside of the foot well, by the pedal. So I take it that the seal is gone and it's leaking down the connector rod (rod between pedal & clutch piston). So looking at replacements I have a few questions. I think I will use one that has a remote reservoir like the link below, since I have plenty of remote reservoir's from motorcycles lying about my garage, and it will make maintance a lot easier. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...RRMC/index.asp But, my car also has a problem, where once hot, the clutch works for s**t, the heat shield I made helped a lot, but it still has a problem of reverse. It's impossible to get into reverse without grinding after 50 or so miles. Is this a common problem, or just one that I am having? I’m sure it’s because the clutch is not engaging correctly or fully. So I am wondering if I should replace the slave cylinder to a better quality one at the same time. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...1-SC/index.asp I realize it’s not a direct fit, and I will have to make a bracket / mount for it. Any thoughts on the subject, since I know a few of you have gone through the same problem? Thanks, Shaun |
You are good on both. The slave needs a custom bracket. You can copy Anthems for an idea:
http://www.anthemmotors.com/3787/Wit...lave%20kit.jpg |
Quote:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...verse+grinding Been there ... done that ... |
SFEAKS,
This subject is dear to my heart. I have replaced every part of the system twice. I had had two of the Willwoods fall appart both times on the track. My current slave is from Speedway Motors, it is there store brand http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm half the price of the Willwood and the rod cannot unscrew from the piston, as happened to me twice and a friend once. I had even taken the second one appart and Locktited it all together and it still unscrewed. The Speedway model is not screwed in but "peened" in place. The way to mount it without a bracket is to take the rear rod off and move it to the front with a bold adapter (long bold about 2 inches threaded that the rods screwinto). You then point it to the rear and run the rod through a bolt hole in the bellhousing. We have steel ones that has the hole lined up with the yoke. I would think the Aluminum bellhousing will have a boss for the clutch cable that could be used. Learned this trick from Reg. I did use the Willwood master for the clutch but Speedway has several cheeper than the Willwood some with remote fillers. But heat is the problem I cook the fluid a lot on the track. I also incased the line in a heat shield. I have ceramic coated headers and have wraped the headers and also have a heat shield. |
I have just replaced the master with the remote reservoir one from willwood, and use a motorcycle clutch reservoir.
This allowes me to locate the reservoir away from the heat, and it's also plastic, so the reservoir will not hold the heat like the stock metal one. Here are some pic's http://feakes.cc/house/Cobra%20mods/IMG_0701.JPG http://feakes.cc/house/Cobra%20mods/IMG_0707.JPG JayB, Thanks for the tip on the clutch slave....I will be ordering that one next. Shaun |
anyone tried this stuff in addition to heat shielding, etc. for the clutch heat problems ... http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3326
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it's true that reverse isn't syncro'd HOWEVER....one should NEVER have to go into 1st gear to stop a grinding into reverse....this is most likely a clutch hydraulic problem, clutch not completely disengaging, where the input shaft is still slightly turning...or a pilot bearing problem.
don't blame the transmission. |
Quote:
Still will trun black in your clutch lines. I try to change the fluid prior to a track event. |
A different setup
I think the CNC slave has better results than the Wilwood has from the history of pervious posts. I have used it with no issues (yet :)), the only thing I had to do was teflon wrap all the fittings.
For mounting I threaded the hole on the transmission housing and stuck in a brass bushing. Inserted the rod end thru the hole and hooked it up the the clutch arm. And that is it. Yes, the piston itself is not firm mounted to anything, expecially something on the frame as this would cause the clutch engagement to change as the engine moves from loading. I can upload pictures if needed. |
hears a pic off how i made a heat sheild I have made a lot off them in the past and they really seam to help see my gallery
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I made my own heatshield, then bought one of yours since it looked better, it helps but doesn't solve the problem. Re-routing the clutch & brake lines is the best option. In the new(er) BDR's they have routed the brake through the inner fender which seems to be a lot better option, but I think the clutch is still in the same place. I think the best option is to wrap the line with heatshield tape or re-route it over the foot well (as posted by someone else on this forum) but I haven't tried either yet.
I'm going to pull all the clutch and brakes out soon and completely re-do the lot, they just don't work as well as I would expect from such a light car. Seems most of the problem is due to heat. |
I pop- rivet a small piece of sheet metal to cover clutch cylinder and heat tape, easy to do and solved the problem.
ED |
Here is the new heatshield that comes fitted from the factory now. It also covers the booster:
http://www.backdraftparts.com/upfile...ld%20large.jpg |
Can you buy a retrofit?
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What a great idea on a heat sheild I hope backdraft keeps up the good work, my car is #84 and fill very lucky to have it. I made a lot off heat sheilds for the backdraft and they work great but I do like this design better.
ED |
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With a normal car manufactuer, if a serious material manufacturing defect is proven, which this has been ex: failure @600 miles like mine and others...confirmed many, many times in this forum,(excessive heat and premature failure of slave cylinders) on a consistent, ongoing basis - a recall would be appropriate, covering parts and labor. The fact that b/d has now decided to try to prevent this problem by "factory installing" these heat shields(jury still out if they will help or not), they should be contacting EVERY b/d purchaser and providing them at least the part FREE OF CHARGE! and reimbursing for the labor....
Hear this REG? |
Don't waste your breath ... :rolleyes:
They are available through the Backdraft store, we have just started using them... jury is not back with a verdict yet, I recommend waiting on this one until we get some test miles on it. More on that later .... **) |
[quote=Cashburn]Don't waste your breath ... :rolleyes:
Of course a person that wants to SELL you these parts, would say this against this legit idea to help the b/d owners....if b/d has built 400 of these cars with no heatshields, it wouldn't be too hard on them to make this engineering problem right and ship them to us (I bet most of us would donate the labor ourselves!)....in order to take care of us buyers. All Reg would have to do is eliminate just one of his Sebring play days. Think of the great PR this would provide for b/d! |
I bought my car from custom cars over 3 years ago and part of the joy of owning this car is things I have built for it to make it my own.
I understand some people do not want to work on this cars just drive them and that fine, that what they make after market parts for. Every car manufactory I know has after market parts for performance and appearance parts. In addition, we have a great site “club cobra” to find out about problems be it Backdraft or any of the other cobra makers out there. The price of these cars for being custom built is in my opinion good but the are not a $100,000 car with a 5-year warranty. The heat problem on the clutch and brake is not a problem on every car but Backdraft is addressing this problem. If you own a Backdraft, you would know how Reg at custom cars and other dealers try very hard to please everybody. ED |
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