I have the same setup, so I'll list what I used (prices are approximate):
Mcleod steel bellhousing, Mcleod p/n 8660-B $275
Mustang fork, 1" extra length, Mcleod p/n 16924 $124
Mustang adjustable ball stud, Mcleod p/n 16909 $43
Adjustable length throwout bearing, Mcleod p/n 16515 $62
Ford Performance clutch pressure plate, Ford p/n M-7563-C302 $139
Ford Performance clutch disk, Ford p/n M-7550-T302 $159
Ford flywheel to crankshaft bolts, don't have p/n or price
Pull-type slave cylinder from CNC, Inc., website:
www.cncbrakes.com $60
My flywheel came with the engine, so I don't know where to get it from, but the specs are:
157 tooth
10.5" face diameter
13.25 outside diameter
Small block Ford bolt pattern
Notes:
1. McLeod parts were ordered directly from McLeod. Ford parts from the local Ford dealer. BTW, the tech support guy at McLeod is very knowledgable and helpful. His name is Red Roberts.
2. Do not substitute anything for the Ford flywheel bolts. They're too important to skimp on.
3. Very important! Flywheels from Ford use metric threads for the pressure plate bolts. Aftermarket flywheels usually use English threads. Make sure of what you have when buying the bolts. I learned the hard way, and now I have metric bolts cross-threaded into Engilsh holes.
4. I used a pull-type slave with one end mounted to the engine mount flange on the frame. (You need to notch the bellhousing flange to do this.) That is because a push-type slave and bracket won't clear the transmission tunnel in my car. I am told that newer BDRs have more clearance, and that you can use a push-type slave, even with the larger diameter steel bellhousing. Somewhere on this forum there is a thread that discusses it. I think posted on it, so searching my recent posts may help you to find it.
5. The input shaft on the TKO600 has 26 splines, unlike other Tremecs that have 10. If you get a different clutch disk than what I recommended, make sure it has the right number of splines.
6. The "B" suffix in the bellhousing part number was a special deal. McLeod had some bellhousings that were blemished and couldn't be certified with SFI stickers. McLeod was selling them at a pretty good discount. If you're going to drag the car, you may be required to have the stickers, so you'll need the same part without the "B".
7. I trimmed around 1.25" off the flange on the bottom of the bellhousing to improve ground clearance. It probably wouldn't pass a safety inspection at a drag track that way, though.
8. Last, and probably most important, with this powerful a drivetrain and plans for drag racing, it is very important that you use a steel scattershield bellhousing, rather than an aluminum one. Your legs will thank you if something ever goes wrong.
Hope this helps. I'm sure this is not the only way to go. Others may have different opinions.
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