Most desirable upgrades

SkipB · #1 (**permalink**) 02-05-2007, 04:23 PM

I have build #90 and have added some "upgrades" to my car. But, I would like to see if there is a list of what is available and what others have done to improve their cars. This doesn't have to be factory upgrades either. (the new start button comes to mind)

My upgrades (in not particular order)

Oil cooler, new springs, driveshaft safety loop, lug nut covers (poor man's knockoffs), locking glovebox, modified seatbelt mounts, heat shield for brake master cylinder, real chrome/metal headlight rings, leather covered steering wheel, modified shift lever, chrome fire extinguisher, gas tank vent hose modification.

If you know of any factory upgrades that I could put on my car, or other products/accessories that you think add value to your car, please let me know. (I won't add a top or heater as they are really not needed in our climate.)

Planned modifications: Limited slip diff, hidden stereo, maybe tonneau cover.

Anybody add a good stereo that is not visible?

SkipB

jp65cobra · #2 (**permalink**) 02-05-2007, 05:46 PM

Skip

Don't forget the longer wheel studs we both added!! Safety issue.
I often wonder how many cars are still out there without this.

I would like to add the front spoiler one day as seen on Mr. Lucky's car. Of course I still need to learn how to stop before hitting the curb when parking.

JP

Trueoo7 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-05-2007, 07:02 PM

Care to elaborate on the longer wheel studs?

SkipB · #4 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 09:10 AM

True007 and JP,

Yep, I forgot about the wheel studs! JP and I found out on our cars that the wheel studs were barely hanging on to the hub with just a few threads. Also, we found that our wheels were not "hubcentric" and were only centered by the lugbolts. So, we had Frank Fahey Racing in San Diego fabricate hub centering rings (really helps with balance issues) and longer lugbolts. The combination is safer and as mentioned makes it better for wheel balance.

SkipB

Ps. Frank Fahey will make up sets for anyone for about $100. His number is 858-693-1891

Dinobyte · #5 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 11:04 AM

Is the longer stud an issue with the later cars? Same for the wheels...thanks.

jp65cobra · #6 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 01:50 PM

I think we figured out that a change was made to the stud length at the factory around my build number #259. Maybe Mr. lucky or Reg can confirm.

JP

Cashburn · #7 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 01:59 PM

The last car I remember seeing the shorter studs on was #201 or so.

thunder1 · #8 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 03:26 PM

I have #84 should I be concerned about this studs on the wheels and were do I get them. In addition, is this a safety issue?
ED

Cashburn · #9 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 04:22 PM

Ed,
It seemed to be on some cars and not on others. Worth checking yours though. I have upgraded some early cars to the original BMW style which is a lug stud vs. a lug nut.

BTW did you get my email about the heat shields. We need 5 more.

SkipB · #10 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 04:51 PM

Ed,

Its probably only an issue after a wheel falls off.

Check my previous entry. It gives Frank Fahey's phone number in San Diego. He is the one that "fixed" both my car and JPs.

I considered it cheap insurance. Plus the hub ring helped center the wheel on the hub. It took out all my front end shimmy which I thought was coming from those wonderful BFG Radial TAs.

SkipB

Rwillia4 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-06-2007, 09:22 PM

Skip- if a wheel is lugcentric I'm not sure a hub ring should be helping, as this would center the wheel on the hub. In any case, if it is lug centric then tighting the lugs in a "skip every-other lug" pattern finger tight, then light torque, then final torque should center the wheel around the lug pattern.

I'm not sure if this is standard or not. Armond at Cal Cobra routed my brake lines thru the fender wall and then down, to keep the header heat from saturating the brake fluid. With this I'm not sure if I would still need the brake shield that Ed makes.

Route from the master to the fender and where they come together below on the frame:

Here is what it looks like in the fender well (with a cover to protect the lines):

thunder1 · #12 (**permalink**) 02-07-2007, 03:32 PM

great idea on brake lines but the sheild is for the master cyclinder itself which if you look at my pics in my gallery, it will show you it also covers the brake lines under the cyclinder. I do like the way you routed your brake lines.
ED

Cashburn · #13 (**permalink**) 02-07-2007, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

I'm not sure if this is standard or not. Armond at Cal Cobra routed my brake lines thru the fender wall and then down, to keep the header heat from saturating the brake fluid. With this I'm not sure if I would still need the brake shield that Ed makes.

This is factory setup now. The heat shield protects the master itself and does work very well in our experience.

Armond is working on your car?

SkipB · #14 (**permalink**) 02-07-2007, 05:15 PM

Rwillia4,

Yep, you would think that careful tightening of the lugs would help center the wheel on the hub. All I know is after we put a machined ring to help center the wheel on the hub and then tightened the lugs, my front end balance was perfect. No other changes were made. So, I just had to assume that the wheel centering hub worked. I think that JP will attest to that also on his car. There was a considerable amount of space between the hub and the wheel without the ring. So, even a small amount of off center tightening, or a small amount of slipping from impact could cause what felt like wheel imbalance. You shouldn't have to worry as your car is a much later build #

Say hi to Armond for me. Have him call me if he still has my number. Or let me have his number. Please send it on a PM.

SkipB

SkipB

letitbe · #15 (**permalink**) 02-09-2007, 04:54 AM

The most useful things I have added were the heat sheild for brakes and the bug screen from Littleton. Here in Oklahoma the bugs can get pretty bad. The radiator screen was a real blessing for us. The design doesn't even allow for most of the bugs to stick. Both items are a quick and easy install.

Dinobyte · #16 (**permalink**) 02-09-2007, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by letitbe

The most useful things I have added were the heat sheild for brakes and the bug screen from Littleton. Here in Oklahoma the bugs can get pretty bad. The radiator screen was a real blessing for us. The design doesn't even allow for most of the bugs to stick. Both items are a quick and easy install.

What about an armidillo gaurd?

SkipB · #17 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 11:50 AM

thunder1,

What is the availablility of the "bug screen"? I am interested, especially if it is strong enough to stop small rocks or pebbles. Do you have a picture of it, and how does it work. You may have posted it before, but I may have missed it.

SkipB

thunder1 · #18 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 04:50 PM

Hi SkipB
I have pic on the one i made in my gallery ,yes it can stop small rocks, its made out of 060.SS woven wire mesh and works well. I not sure if i will make more because of the cost to make them in small numbers. If you need help on how to build one let me know.
ED

SkipB · #19 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 05:40 PM

Ed,

As much as I would rather buy one from you, I can understand the problem of cost. So, if you are willing to share how you build them, that would be great! After saying that, I would assume there is a market out there for such an item, and not just for Backdrafts. You might put a picture on the site and see what kind of interest you stir up. On the other hand, you may not want to make a bunch of these either. I would love to get some help in building one, unless you have one lying around someplace! If so, consider it sold.

SkipB

Cashburn · #20 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 05:47 PM

Ed,
Correct me if I am wrong but your setup looks more like a grill? It would stop birds but bugs would go right passed it?