T-56 install - Page 2

Doug I · #21 (**permalink**) 03-01-2007, 04:24 PM

they wouldn't fit in the <100# cars

Bailey · #22 (**permalink**) 03-02-2007, 05:14 PM

The earlier cars had a narrower tranny tunnel. My tranny, barely comes out, with input shaft clearing the clutch by about 3/8". After having the 56, I don't know how I survived without it.

Rwillia4 · #23 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 10:26 AM

We I have been scratching my head on what to do with this T-56, that has caused some "snowball" problems. As stated before with the extended length of the tranny I had to move the engine to the middle holes on the engine mounts. Not a big deal until I tried to fit the sidepipes. I have to cut forward of the stock exit hole, read WAY forward to the point where I might have to cut into the fender flare. My other options is to re-think the mounting of the tranny and then have the driveshaft re-cut. The header flanges clear the wheel well by ~3/8".

This also affects how the metal cooling pipes line up. The lower pipe basically touches the water pump the top kisses the distributor. A bit of bending and some cutting fixed these problems. So yes the T-56 fits but dows cause some other problems.

Cashburn · #24 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 10:54 AM

To shorten and re-balance a driveshaft (non-aluminum) can cost about $90. I think you have unleashed a long list of problems by trying to avoid this simple change. Moving the engine forward also affects handling and balance.

Did you specify a T-56 install when you ordered the roller? They can supply a driveshaft to make it all a bolt-in.

Rwillia4 · #25 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 10:04 PM

Cashburn, good point!! I thought the same thing to myself earlier. I ended up moving the engine back today. I was able to notch the engine mount plates and move it back ~1" so it would be in the second to the last bolt hole on the old mount plates. To do this with the tranny mount I had to take 1/4" notch out of the mount bar to allow the engine to go back as far a possible. It took some fiddling especially with the shifter hole (which might be a little big now for the boot to cover!) . I am going to reinforce the the tranny mount bar with a 1/4" bar to sandwiched on the botom side.

I did specify a T-56, had I known I would have made sure it was the correct driveshaft. Ended up having it made and they used solid U-joint (no grease fitting) and a larger U-joint up front. Total length 11 3/4".

Bailey · #26 (**permalink**) 03-12-2007, 03:55 PM

Rob, sounds like you are making some headway. It also sounds like your driveshaft length was the same as mine originally. My drive shaft went in with the engine install, which was fine unless you tried to remove the tranny with the engine in place. All in all very worthwile.
Keep us posted,
Richard

Rwillia4 · #27 (**permalink**) 03-12-2007, 09:54 PM

bailey,

Yes, the driveshaft was a pain to get in. I found if I push the engine forward I can get the driveshaft in and out. If I wasn't able to get it in I was going to drop the diff but it worked out.

I got the sidepipes in today (well teh holes are cut and the pipes line up. I should have them attached tomorrow. Then get them lined up by pushing the tranny left and right. Then go back and start tightening bolts: motor mounts, tranny mount, ...finish cooling hoses.

All to start the next battle installing the electronics for the EFI, hopefully it goes easy.

Bailey · #28 (**permalink**) 03-13-2007, 05:16 AM

Rob, which EFI systemare you installing?

Rwillia4 · #29 (**permalink**) 03-14-2007, 12:03 AM

I am using a FAST XFI. It looks real easy, we'll see. TIGed the O2 sensor on today. I also re-made the rear tranny cross member mount, I made it a little beef'ier and also don't have the extra pre-drilled holes. I could see the original flex/bend with the tranny weight.