help my knock-offs won't turn

Monster · #1 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:15 PM

I used anti-sieze but I guess I didn't use enough. I went over to the tire shop to try on a new set of tires, but my knock -off wouldn't budge. In fact, the ear started distorting (these are Trigo parts not SPF). I was trying to knock them toward the front of the car counter-clock wise on the drivers side. Think I could use one of those knock off tools does anyone local to Livermore have one?

Thanks,
Mike 'monster"

Jeff Frigo · #2 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:31 PM

You are hitting it the right way unless the hubs were put on the wrong side of the car. A hammer works much better than one of the big dollar sockets. Try some liquid wrench on the threads and the seating surface. If this doesnt work, a little heat from a torch sould do it.

Monster · #3 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:36 PM

Jeff,
I pounded that sucker, the "big guy" at the tire shop pounded, it moved about a 1/2 inch and the ear started looking like it was bent. I saw someone here at BACC that had fabed up a trick looking tool that was successfukl for someelse with the same problem. But I can't remember who had it>

Thanks,
Mike "monster"

Jeff Frigo · #4 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:44 PM

Mike:

You can buy the tool from companys that sell Cobra parts and accesscories, about $150. The problem is the wheel spins on the ground. Try the other things I reccomended.

Bob In Ct · #5 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:46 PM

Hey Monster:
Jeff is right on the money! Tops to the front is the normal way to loosen. Check the threads, the hubs may not be on the correct side of the car.

Bob

Tony Ripepi · #6 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:52 PM

Hey Mike,

Rick fabricated a great tool that is sitting here in my garage, call me and come on over with this tool we can get them off with out bending them. I also have the tool mentioned above from finishline and it is not as good as Rick's invention.

I am at home tonight call me and we could set up a time tonight or tomorrow.

Tony R.

Jeff Frigo · #7 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 05:53 PM

Mike:

If you look at the threads very close, you can tell a right hand thread from a left hand one. You said it moved about a 1/2 inch then stoped. Try hitting it the opposite way.

Monster · #8 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 06:08 PM

Thanks Jeff,
I just talked to Tony R. and I'm going over to his place to try his fancy "Rick427" super tool.

This site is great.....1/2hr and I may have the problem solved...

Thanks,
Mike "monster"

Whaler · #9 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 06:16 PM

Actually today when I was working on my e-brake system, I put my back wheels back on for the first time since last Dec to see if i had any probs clearing the cables.

Anyhow I was sitting there wondering if anyone knew the torque settings for the trigo lugs on the adapter plate??

I also thought that with the deepdish back wheels it would take quite a knack to smack them on and not put the wheel in great danger.....I would probably miss by the sounds of how these get the all mighty smack put on em.

So I thought why not make a three pronged socket to fit the spinner snuggly and not risk marring or twisting the ears off.
Attach the socket to this and know that it is securely torqued to a spec.

Tony how about asking Rick to post a pic of the "persuader"

Monster my thoughts as well are to give it a smack the other way or start trying other wheels to see whats up in terms of rotation.

Tim

Monster · #10 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 07:20 PM

Tim,
I have the install instructions from Trigo. "tighten "LUG-PINS" with lug wrench supplied with each kit to minimum 80 foot-pounds torque" that is an exact quote, by lug wrench I believe that they mean the allen socket that fits the lug-pins.

thanks,
Mike "monster"

Monster · #11 (**permalink**) 10-02-2002, 10:24 PM

Well,
The knock-off came off. We had the "Finish line tool" and the Rick427 tool. The finish line tool is a nice piece however, there is NO WAY that that tool would have removed my knock-off. I had a bent ear and it took a long handled 10# sledge hammer and 15 minutes of hard pounding to get the spinner to turn. We believe that I used too much anti-seize and it actually caused a sort of bonding affect between the wheel and spinner. The spinner at this point is distorted due to the early pounding it took at the tire shop. Rick's tool is the only tool I can think of that would have removed my spinner . It has the correct engineering to remove stuborn spinners, it fits into the hub and firmly on each ear. The key is the mounting and the "hammering star" on the back which allows you to drive off the spinner. I forgot my camera but we'll try to post something. I probably need Ricks permission, don't want to infringe on his "patent"

.

Thanks Tony for all of your help!!!,

Mike "monster"

Whaler · #12 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 09:14 AM

Mike thanks for the trq. info on the lugs.....
Mike I quote from your post , " I was trying to knock them toward the front of the car counter-clock wise on the drivers side."

BTW on my car if I rotate "tops to the back" of the car, they rotate off on each side.......are mine incorrect?
Side for side?

Tim

Tony Ripepi · #13 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 10:35 AM

Hello Whaler,

On both sides of the car the spinner should loosen toward the front of the car and tighten to the rear. Randy R's memory gimmick is " You always want a woman with a tight axx" ie. the spinners tighten to the rear. The safety wire should keep the spinner from turning to the front. If your wheels are not configured this way you may have the left and right adapters on the wrong wheel.

I don't know what safety wire you all are using but I prefer the .041" (1.04mm) thickness. I know that the wire will not hold the spinner on and should only be an indication if they are starting to loosen but, the thicker wire just feels better.

Tony R.

Jeff Frigo · #14 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 10:37 AM

Tim: You defiantly have the hubs on the wrong side of the car. The saying goes like this: "Tight Ass" meaning that you tighten the spinners when you hit them towards the back (ass) of the car. Change them immediately.

Mr.Fixit · #15 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 11:28 AM

Right side of car = left hand threads (backwards)
Left side of car = right hand threads (normal)

Whaler · #16 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 11:39 AM

Thanks everyone........car is sitting here on axle stands easy to change over. As I said yesterday, the car hasn't seen the wheels back on since it came home half built from the builder last Dec.

I guess it makes sense if you think of the forward direction of the car and the natural tendency for rotation on the spinner while the car is moving.

Better done now than later

Tim

PS in the old days they painted the spinners red and blue to tell the crews which went where.....I note that my spinners do have a small dab of blue on the backside of the ears for 2 of them.

Jeff Frigo · #17 (**permalink**) 10-03-2002, 07:04 PM

You want to laugh, Audi does it the exact opposite on their LeMans cars. They say they can break harder than accelerate, thus they do them the opposite of everybody else.

Whaler · #18 (**permalink**) 10-04-2002, 07:12 AM

Actually just had a a closer look last night at the trigo adapters and the backplate has a "L" or and "R" stamped on the face of of stamped

The R was on the drivers side and L on the pass side.....

Tim

BO DUTCH · #19 (**permalink**) 10-16-2002, 09:43 PM

Whaler

Maybe the "R" is for Racer's side and the "L" is for the Ladies side !!

Then you be right !!

JUST KIDDING, change them over !!