Engine Wiring

[dakota]

I'm down to the final wiring before startup. Got a couple questions that I thought I would ask before doing the trial and error routine.

I'm using a D.U.I. distributor from Performance Distributors. It has the coil and ECM all self contained in the cap, and is basically a one wire hookup. Is there a wire in the harness that could be used for this hookup or should I wire it myself independently of the harness. Also, what is recommended to do with all of the pigtails that aren't used? ie coil, ballast resistor, ECM. Do any of these need to be wired together or any other way to complete any necessary circuits???

Second question. What is the opinion on the "one wire" alternators compared to the standard Ford alternator with the external firewall mounted voltage regulator. Obviously the one wire looks "cleaner" but is there any real performance or reliability advantages to it that I'm going to wish I had down the road. I've got the external regulator setup now, and would like to use it since I have it. I haven't drilled the mounting holes in the firewall yet, and don't want to deal with hole repair if I should have gone with the one wire in the first place.

I appreciate the help,
Wade

[Jack21]

Wire #128 is your ignition wire. It supplies 12V to the ignition in run and start. If your DUI requires 12V at all times, and does not require a ballast resistor, then run 128 to the distributor. Your DUI spec sheet should tell you this. Additionally, 128 is used to power your electric choke if you're using one on your carb.

I also used 128 with a diode to energize the alternator, but I fudged a little here. I used a standard Delco alternator. Fewer problems than Fords. I looked at the one wire setups. They reportedly charge less at low RPM, and the regular Delco setup uses only 2 wires. An ignition lead and battery lead. I'm using a voltmeter in the dash, so I didn't install an idiot light.

Also took the leads not used, clipped them about 6" long, and rolled them up for future use.

Wire 121 supplies power to the starter solenoid. It goes thru two neutral safety switch locations before becoming wire 126 at the starter solenoid, one under the dash for auto trans, and one at the trans for manual. It needs to be installed at wherever your neutral safety switch is, and jumpered at the other, or the solenoid won't engage.

Make yourself a checklist, and sequentially check each circuit for correct operation. It's easy to make dumb mistakes.

[dakota]

Thanks Jack,
Like you said, I need 12V running straight to the DUI, no ballast resistor. I do have an electric choke and have 128 hooked up to it. There are two wires labeled 128 and 128A running into a single terminal which is plugs into the electric choke. I am assuming I am going to have to run a splice from there up to the DUI. Where should I splice the new wire into?? Right off of the existing terminal with both wires or one or the other of the two wires (128 or 128A).

Thanks,
Wade

[Jack21]

I would run 128 directly to the DUI. From that splice, run a second wire back to the choke.