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Post By MiamiCobra

10-03-2001, 06:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Miami Beach, Florida - USA,
Posts: 277
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Bolt on's
Don,
Since you are very familiar with my engine......
We are going to put AC in it... and I know I'll lose some HP from it. What can I do to the motor thats easy to give back a bit of HP without resorting to Nitros or such? I'm looking for a boost to daily performance that won't complete ruin the engines life expentency.
__________________
Fine fine, don't go all Scully on me.
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10-03-2001, 07:30 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
When you do put the AC in it, I'd like to know how you did it, and what components you used. Contemplating the same mod myself.
HP wise, I'd use a slightly milder cam and a stroker kit (393) to up the bottom end and mid range torque. The 393 over the 351 is worth nearly 50 ft/lb TQ @ 2000 RPM.
Set the rev limiter at 6000, do routine oil and plug changes, and the engine should go about 120 - 130k miles before rebuild time.
These Fords just seem to run forever it you take care of them.
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10-03-2001, 08:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Miami Beach, Florida - USA,
Posts: 277
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Jac,
I too would love information on how to do it. I've got a guy measuring the car now for an aftermarket AC kit. However, I've got the hard top - and in NY the taxis have these new AC units that mount on the ROOF! Its a great idea really - I'd love to do something similar in my car.
__________________
Fine fine, don't go all Scully on me.
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10-04-2001, 08:40 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sauk Centre,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: Owner, Classic Roadsters II
Posts: 1,347
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Not Ranked
Miami, For the small hp loss I don't know if it's worth the trouble to redo the engine. Typical loss is maybe 15hp. If you have room under the hood a different intake would increase the hp by a small amount. The addition of roller rockers would free up some hp also. Other than that you could change to aluminum heads. When we change to aluminum and move up to the next cam level we gain about 50hp. The next step would be a stroker kit. The cars I have had with air don't seem to effect performance that much. When in doubt I shut it off for the short race or display.
For the A/C I use the Vintage air mini space saver unit. It's heat/air/defrost in a very small package. I use the Sanden 505 small compressor. I don't know of an engine bracket that will work so I have to make each one to fit the car. Hood clearance is the main factor. The unit comes with small under dash outlets that work well.
Don
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10-04-2001, 03:59 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Miami Beach, Florida - USA,
Posts: 277
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Vintage air is what my guy here recommended as well. Unfortunately - the Unique does not offer much space in terms of under the dash. I was hoping to mount everything elsewhere - with the evaporator in the trunk? Don't know if thats possible but thought it was worth a shot.
__________________
Fine fine, don't go all Scully on me.
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10-04-2001, 04:47 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sauk Centre,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: Owner, Classic Roadsters II
Posts: 1,347
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Not Ranked
Miami, Vintage Air does offer several different types of units, under dash, behind the seats, trunk, and many other specialized units. I would get one of their catalogs and find the right one for your car. I don't know if they have a website, their phone # is 1-800-to-cool-u.
Don
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10-05-2001, 07:13 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Miami Beach, Florida - USA,
Posts: 277
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Don,
One step ahead of you. I got their catalogue in the mail yesterday. I think I need a cliff notes version of what the parts all do - and a consistent naming convention.
I think when some people speak of the "drier" they mean the evaporator? Then there is the condenser. Plus some other bits that seem to be important.
__________________
Fine fine, don't go all Scully on me.
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10-05-2001, 08:10 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bloomington,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates "Street" Roadster, 351W
Posts: 194
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Not Ranked
Tom,
Glad to see you're going to keep the car. If you would like a basic primer on air conditioning, e-mail me at dkjos@minnair.com with a fax number. We've got a wealth of info here.
Dick Kjos
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10-05-2001, 08:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
A refrigeration system is much like a cooling system in that it moves heat from one place to another. In a cooling system, the heat exchange media is water and glycol, and it stays a liquid. A refrigeration system uses a refrigerant (R-12, R-134a) that changes state from a liquid, to a gas, to a liquid again while giving up, or removing heat in the process.
When you get out of the shower, your skin gets cold. The water is evaporating (changing from a liquid to a vapor) and removing heat in the process.
Your auto refrigerator consists of 5 main parts, compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, pressure switch. The compressor takes low pressure gas, and compresses it into a high pressure gas. High pressure gas enters the condenser where it gives up heat to the air and condenses into a liquid. The liquid enters the evaporator through a small opening where it evaporates, changes state from a liquid to a gas, and removes heat in the process. A drier is used to remove any water vapor and other contaminants that may have inadvertently entered the refrigerant, and also acts as a refrigerant reservoir. The drier also typically incorporates a high and low pressure safety and cycling switch.
This help?
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