Clutch HELP!

[RICK LAKE]

Hey guys both cable and hydro will work for years if setup right. This is where the problem of failures start
Cable problems, I have had them in my CJ5 jeeps from 1972. Every 12-15,000 miles it got a new cable. Old cable would bind. I could lube the carp out of it and it didn't last any longer. Cables don't like bends. I have not seen a cable without a 90 or 180 degree bent in a car or truck. I tryed every cable lube on the market back then. The rubbing inside is just that and over a couple hundred engagements cable wears the inner casing. What extends a cable life is running a light pressure plate and having low torque/hp motor. I started with 1,800lb clutches and smoked them. I ended up running 2,400 pound clutches and eating cables every 6 months. I drove year around, NE area we get everything, salt, snow, rain, mud running, sand beach running. All this caused cable failures. I ended up going to a hard linkage and removed the cable. Down side to this was it would raise the body of the jeep when it was engaged. I chained down the body to stop this.
Hydro clutches Have had them in the cobra for 15+ years. Failures, First one I installed lasted about3 minutes. Come to find out that there is a ton of vacuum in the bellhousing with the motor running. It sucked the hydro lines right into the back of the pressure plate and rubbed a hole through both lines. OOPS #1. Welded a plate inside to hold both lines from moving. New problem was now have to put trans and bell on motor at same time. Got it done, Pain in butt. Hydro bearing adjustment for correct distance to fingers on plate. It was too long of a throw. Pulled out trans and bell and added spacer. Seamed ok, come to fine out the bearing was rubbing on the pressure plate fingers. The other issue was engagement of the clutch. I got a Centerforce with the weights that slide to put more load on the fingers and stop slipping under hard WOT. This clutch turned out to be a nightmare and would lockup over 3,000 rpms and couldn't shift the car. The clutch pedal would go in but no release. There was no air in the system or leaks. The bearing couldnot move the fingers. Final fix for this was removed the weights, and the clutch worked good for a while. problem was too much torque from motor and it would slip. This was with a 452 motor and 448ft of torque. I did let a leak from the hudro bearing after 1 season of running. I think I caused the damage from clutch issues. I went back to The ERA setup. The biggest thing is getting a straight line from the slave to the fork inside the bell. Shims and bending the fork a little trued up this. I have the same master and slave in the car for 12 years and no problems.
I built a 484 motor with the 600/500 range at the crank. The single disc clutch doesn't hold the power of this at all. Bylkins sold me a street twin setup for the car. I can't tell you how easy it is to drive. feed back is verygood, lite pedal, Hydros work great. Did add a pedal stop to the clutch pedal as to not over extend the slave or damage the seals in the master. I have 1" of free play at the top, complete engagement of clutch and pedal tops about 1" from the floor. I do flush out the fluid once a year and keep it fresh. The twin is going on 5 years. No problems.
If you have the money and a strong motor over 400/400 range you really should look into a street twin. The added weight is worth the easy feel and control. 1 side note and VERY IMPORTANT, break in the clutch as told. Just like brake pads. Multi disc used to be noisy, not any more.
Cable or Hydro TOB, I think I will stay with hydro. Cables are great if no bends but will fail like hydros some time. With Hydro, use the CORRECT fluids. You can use Brake fluid #3 but There is a differents between them. We have clutch fluid for GM cars that is just for clutches. Old days you used brake fluid but think they change the formula. Other thing is brake fluid collect moisture and again should flush system once a year. Good luck to all. Rick L. Ps how many of you have lost their parking brake cables from age, rusting out, seizing up, or non use?? Clutch cable is the same thing but a larger cable. No fix for these (parking cables) except to replace if not used. Some GUYS are LUCKY, I'm not one of them. Dwight you are