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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 09-03-2015, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironhead View Post
Joel, I do have a gear reduction starter and am running #4 cable to bat. I'm not sure what you mean by "clocking". Is that mounting lug oriention, rotation, or what? What vintage or application GM starter would you advise? Not sure if I can find a local shop with the technology you mentioned, Lol GM is the better starting point? I might have to resort to Summit or Jeg's etc. Again thanks Chuck S.
So it sounds like you already have the smaller battery cable, so you should be good there.

By clocking, I'm referring to getting the mounting lugs and tension bolt in the locations that are needed for mounting on a Ford engine. In addition, having the pigtail/wiring come out in a location that's accessible and doesn't rub on something hot like a header. I'm guessing you are using a V belt where the alt needs to move for belt adjustment. On Chevy's the alts were typically mounted high with tensioner on top. On Ford's the alt was typically down lower (front of the head) and tensioner on bottom. Ford and Chevy engines have same rotation so that's not an issue.

I found this info by Googling "gm late model alternator":
The first GM 10DN alternator appeared on the '63 Corvette and used a remote-mounted voltage regulator. These alternators were rated around 40 amps and are prime material for an upgrade. The 10 and 12 SI alternators were the second-generation units and are generally the same size with similar mounting bosses. SI is an acronym for systems integrated because the voltage regulator was moved inside the alternator. GM built millions of these units from the '70s until the CS130 debuted in 1986. The CS (charging system) alternators offered a generous increase in idle amperage output (generally around 80 amps) with maximum output around 100 to 105 amps. This is an important point. Early alternators required high rpm to achieve maximum output, while late-model versions can achieve 90 percent of maximum output at idle. The CS121, CS130, and CS144 numbers refer to Stator diameters as measured in millimeters. The most popular are the CS130 alternators with a case diameter of 5.12 inches. The CS130D is also slightly larger than the CS130, but the mounting lugs are the same. As case diameter increases, this creates more room for additional wiring and larger rotors, which increase output. Because the CS144 is larger (5.9 inches), it is capable of roughly 140 amps of max output. Keep in mind that as output capacity increases, so does heat. Another little-known fact is that the integral fans pull air through the alternator from the rear and exit the front. This means keeping the rear of the alternator free of obstructions will improve alternator life.

Read more: Alternator Upgrades - Junkyard Builder - Car Craft Magazine
I think the CS130 or CS130D are about the same size as the Ford alt. Hopefully this points you in the right direction.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:48 PM
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found the wire size chart..........this is a really good read with a lot of info......

Charge Wires

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Old 09-07-2015, 07:12 AM
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Yesterday afternoon was in the my shop with one of my many projects,had not used my car in a while,so decided to start up the car and let it run a while, this is what I noticed.......

Start up,nothing on but the engine running,MSD ignition,volt gauge just under 14 volts....

after the temp got to 180,kicked on the electric fan, volt gauge dropped a little,still way above 13 volts....

for the heck of it,turned on the headlights on high beam,turned on the heater blower motor on high,only thing not on was the W/S wipers and radio....
volt gauge needle was just to the right of 13 volts.....

no matter what was on, it never got to 13 volts, always a tad over 13 volts.......

all this at 900 rpm idle....... and with a 15+ year old Ford 60 amp old style alternator.....


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