Kirk! We're under attack!! Suspension help.

[RedHawk]

Okay so as the world turns.

Gee Box monkeys messed with putting in new thermostat and in the process returned my car about a gallon and a half low on coolant. Learned of this when deciding to investigate by burping the system.

Car now is running between 190 and 210 when I get on it. Still seems high. I adjusted timing to 12 and 36 and idle on their 560 cfm holley avenger. Still on the fence with this carb.

Also while having car jacked up to burp coolant system I said to myself" Did these monkeys even refill ball joints on A-arms when getting them back from powder coaters. Nope! It took two sticks of grease.

While I was there I checked Tie Rods....no grease! Holy crap.

Fuse has blow twice now on elctric fan. Not sure what the heck is going on there. Anyone?

Car now is tracking straight and riding well at 80 to 90 mph but honeslty not thrilled.

Lastly, one of the main requests while under there care was to tighten alan screws around steering shaft. Nope!

[moore_rb]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Okay so as the world turns.

Gee Box monkeys messed with putting in new thermostat and in the process returned my car about a gallon and a half low on coolant. Learned of this when deciding to investigate by burping the system.

Nice....

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Car now is running between 190 and 210 when I get on it. Still seems high.

What spec is the T-stat? If it is a 195, then you are running right about where you should expect to be- If it's a 180, then check to see if you are still running lean, or if you have a coolant flow blockage somewhere in the system.

On a side-note- I know 200-210 sounds high, and is not the ideal temp range for peak performance; but the closer to the boiling point of water you run your engine, the better it is for your motor oil, because your oil typically runs about 20 degrees hotter than the water temp, and having the oil run above 212F allows all the condensation and other atmospheric contaminants that settle into your oil to evaporate off, leaving the oil to do a better job of lubricating, and flushing the normal wear off the bearings and rings.

So, you may not be making peak power at 200+, but you ARE improving durability and longevity in your engine...

Originally Posted by RedHawk

I adjusted timing to 12 and 36 and idle on their 560 cfm holley avenger. Still on the fence with this carb.

560 is plenty of CFM for your 351 (unless it revs to 8 grand), but it's still a Holley...

For street driveability, and ease of tuning, I'm a huge fan of the Weber re-designed Edelbrock and Carter Carbs. Sure, they don't look as "correct", but who can see what's underneath the air cleaner...? Another big plus with the Edelbrocks/Carters is that they have no gaskets below the fuel level, so they are much less leaky than Holleys, too...

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Fuse has blow twice now on elctric fan. Not sure what the heck is going on there. Anyone?

Electric fans pull a LOT of current - a 30 amp fuse, a switching relay, and 14 gauge wire (minimum) are all great ideas.- Also, make sure that when the fan is on while the engine is idling, that the alternator is keeping up - If the battery is below 12V at idle when the fan is on, then the alternator is losing the race....

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Car now is tracking straight and riding well at 80 to 90 mph but honeslty not thrilled.

Hey - You're gaining on it, and take some pride in the accomplishments earned (and the knowledge gained) along the way...

Funny- My car was for sale for 7 weeks, and in that whole time, I really only had one potential buyer who truly understood what the honest value of a "well sorted" car really is...

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by moore_rb

Nice....




What spec is the T-stat? If it is a 195, then you are running right about where you should expect to be- If it's a 180, then check to see if you are still running lean, or if you have a coolant flow blockage somewhere in the system.

On a side-note- I know 200-210 sounds high, and is not the ideal temp range for peak performance; but the closer to the boiling point of water you run your engine, the better it is for your motor oil, because your oil typically runs about 20 degrees hotter than the water temp, and having the oil run above 212F allows all the condensation and other atmospheric contaminants that settle into your oil to evaporate off, leaving the oil to do a better job of lubricating, and flushing the normal wear off the bearings and rings.

So, you may not be making peak power at 200+, but you ARE improving durability and longevity in your engine...




560 is plenty of CFM for your 351 (unless it revs to 8 grand), but it's still a Holley...

For street driveability, and ease of tuning, I'm a huge fan of the Weber re-designed Edelbrock and Carter Carbs. Sure, they don't look as "correct", but who can see what's underneath the air cleaner...? Another big plus with the Edelbrocks/Carters is that they have no gaskets below the fuel level, so they are much less leaky than Holleys, too...




Electric fans pull a LOT of current - a 30 amp fuse, a switching relay, and 14 gauge wire (minimum) are all great ideas.- Also, make sure that when the fan is on while the engine is idling, that the alternator is keeping up - If the battery is below 12V at idle when the fan is on, then the alternator is losing the race....



Hey - You're gaining on it, and take some pride in the accomplishments earned (and the knowledge gained) along the way...

Funny- My car was for sale for 7 weeks, and in that whole time, I really only had one potential buyer who truly understood what the honest value of a "well sorted" car really is...

Thanks!

Yeah this has been a ride, lol.

I think its a 195 stat.

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Thanks!

Yeah this has been a ride, lol.

I think its a 195 stat.

Havent checked yet but what if the alternator isnt keeping up? I just put a new 65amp one in.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by moore_rb

Electric fans pull a LOT of current - a 30 amp fuse, a switching relay, and 14 gauge wire (minimum) are all great ideas.- Also, make sure that when the fan is on while the engine is idling, that the alternator is keeping up - If the battery is below 12V at idle when the fan is on, then the alternator is losing the race....

When the relay for my fans quit I wired a pair of 40 amp relays in parallel and installed a 30 amp circuit breaker in the circuit feeding them. I've not tripped the breaker yet, but if it overloads it will trip out, cool down, then re-set, all by itself. I may have a problem to deal with, but at least I should be able to limp home.