Dash Removal
 

So I’m in the process of re-wiring my CR and I’m thinking there is likely no way to remove the dashboard without removing the body based on what I see. See YT video. If that’s the case, I will likely use my rotary tool to cut the bolts and hope that provides enough wiggle room to remove dash. Has anyone else had to remove the dash after assembly is complete?

https://youtu.be/aCQ1XSedq5s

Yes, and no clue what kit that video is from. Do you have the half-dash or the one that runs down to the transmission tunnel? Mine runs down to the trans tunnel, and I have metal straps glued to the back side of the dash next to the round vents at each end. Those straps are screwed into the cowl frame with sheet metal screw's.

There is an assembly manual link on this site for the CR.

You will need to drop the steering column bracket. Remove the glove box. There should be 3 screws under the back top lip of the dash securing it to the underside of the body.

Once the screws are removed, you will need to work it out carefuly so as to not scratch your paint.

Let me know if you need photos. I am just about to install my dash.

dash
 

Hi guys I would love to see your pics of the dash brackets and or mounts to the frame and dashboard Thanks for the info

Dash install
 

This may help with your questions. As you see the marks at the upper corners of the dash line-up with the holes that attach to the metal cowl under body (Per Manual) Yes, remove the glove box, lower the steering column. Lower bolts were done with a smaller frame by the interior installer, to firm everything up. Cheers Tom.

I have the same dash as @alfa02. I have removed the bolts on the steering column and have also removed the glove box as well. I’m thinking maybe I’ll remove what appears to be the heater that’s in the way and likely will never use. That can be seen in my video. The hoses go through the fire wall into the engine bay and just stop there. I still don’t know how to get the bolts through without cutting them. I have the manual downloaded. I need to look closer it seems. Any page reference?

There is a lip on the cowl brace just under the curved fiberglass cowl top. The round tube protruding down is for the defroster hose to attach.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20949&thumb=1

In the lip you should find a few holes (manual says 3), one centered and 2 approx equal distant to either side.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20950&thumb=1

Here is the top lip on the dash. You can see how it is "folded" back to slip between the metal lip and the fiberglass cowl.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20951&thumb=1

If you have the full dash that goes to the trans hump, there should be a couple more screws attached to the "L" brackets mounted to the hump.

I have an extra bracket mounted across the lower back of the dash which you see (bright silver) to hold the electronics for the electric door poppers. I installed push buttons on the front of the dash and I have a remote key fob to pop the doors and the trunk.

Update on my project. So I did not end up taking the dash off. Once I removed all the old gauges, there was plenty of room to reach through the speedo and tach openings. Now I have everything working, but when I turn the key over, the voltage drops to 0 and it won’t crank, click, nothing. Pretty much everything else is working. Any advice is welcome. Here’s a video of the situation. https://youtu.be/gpRMPlick9g?feature=shared

Here's my guess. It is common for the ignition switch to remove power from everything except the ignition and starter when the switch is placed in the START position. That could explain why the voltmeter is going to zero when you turn the key. My guess is that the no crank problem is due to a safety circuit associated with the brake or clutch. You may need to temporarily bypass any switches to determine which circuit is the problem.

So, on the new wiring harness, I just spliced the 2 wires together and did not use a neutral safety switch. It said that was an option and it looked like that was how the original harness was wired. I can’t find any clutch pedal mounted NSS. I believe I have a T5 transmission but when I went underneath it before redoing the wiring I noticed there was a plug hanging off that wasn’t being used which I think was the NSS which wasn’t being used. Here’s the pdf of the harness I’m using. Page 64 has the schematic on how I have it wired. It is important to note that this is slightly different than how it was originally wired. The original wiring had the charge cable from the 1 wire alternator going directly to the starter solenoid, then passing through a fuse after. I have it going to the fuse first, then to the solenoid. I followed the Painless recommendation to use the MIDI fuse first. The original wiring had the alternator charge wire going directly to the solenoid post and then it passed through the fuse after it went to the solenoid.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10403.pdf

I ordered some better ground straps, new battery cables, and a new starter motor just in case. Parts were cheap so the rush shipping was about as much as the parts themselves. I’ll keep working on it, trying to hit a 10/29 car show deadline so keep the feedback coming. :)

My comments are mostly about troubleshooting. For these steps be sure the wheels are chocked, the transmission is in neutral/park and nothing will be damaged if the engine turns over or starts. If you work beneath the car be sure it is well supported and won't move if the engine runs. IMHO the most important information in the Painless Manual is on page 72. This shows that the starter motor with a good ground and a major cable from the battery (+) post. With those in place, all that is needed to cause the starter motor to turn is to provide power to the solenoid. The power that goes to the solenoid starts at the ignition switch and runs through the fuse panel and safety switches. If that circuit is open anywhere along the way, the starter will not receive power. . . . If I were troubleshooting this the first thing I would do is briefly connect a jumper between the positive battery cable at the starter and the solenoid connection to see if the starter turns over. If it does, then all the starter wiring is OK and the problem is upstream from the solenoid. I would then start checking all the easily accessible points along that circuit with a test light. With one side of the test light grounded and the other clamped to one of the connection points, I'd turn the ignition key to START and see if the light illuminated. Repeating that test at various points along the circuit should narrow down the place where the circuit is open.

Yes, same page. 64 by the booklet, 72 by the pdf document. I’ve tried every different combination of wires on the 3 solenoid posts and still get the same result. I’ll try jumpering directly from battery to starter motor next.

Perhaps this will help.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/9a/f7...32a9b95df7.jpg

Ok, I jumpered between battery and the smaller S post of the solenoid and nothing happens. When I touch the jumper to the larger post with the cable going to the starter motor it sparks and sounds like the starter is trying to turn. Sooo, it’s a bad solenoid then it seems? This is a brand new motorcraft solenoid so I’m a bit surprised but I guess that’s what this test would indicate, right?
https://youtube.com/shorts/6-TEsqPid...JQhgUT_OhWfYN0

Ok, I jumpered between battery and the smaller S post of the solenoid and nothing happens. When I touch the jumper to the larger post with the cable going to the starter motor it sparks and sounds like the starter is trying to turn. Sooo, it’s a bad solenoid then it seems? This is a brand new motorcraft solenoid so I’m a bit surprised but I guess that’s what this test would indicate, right?
https://youtube.com/shorts/6-TEsqPid...JQhgUT_OhWfYN0

I take your description to mean you ran a jumper from the battery positive to the where the big cable connects to the starter and it tried to crank. I agree that sounds like the starter is working. When you connected that same jumper to the solenoid (at the S connection on the previous diagram) nothing happened. That indicates that either the solenoid is defective, or it is not properly grounded. If your solenoid is not attached directly to the body of the starter, it needs its own ground.

Hmmmm, it is attached via 2 bolts through the fiberglass body. It’s the same way the original solenoid was attached which worked. I guess I can try running a ground wire from the solenoid and see if that works.

Actually, just reading about 3 post vs. 4 post solenoids. The one I was using was a 3 post which should ground through the metal housing and shouldn’t need a ground wire. I ordered a 4 post to try as a replacement which I will need to ground.

If your solenoid grounds through its housing, then either it or the metal bolts holding it must make contact with a part of the car that is grounded. Fiberglass won't do it. A wire to ground the solenoid would not have to be particularly large. 12-14 gauge ought to work.