DV...Dash wiring help needed! - Page 2

Snake · #21 (**permalink**) 05-10-2002, 08:38 PM

Hey DV...do you have the part number for the Ford brake switch with no mods or brackets needed.

DV...which is the best way to wire the tach...by the CR manual...or by Hollys manual? I'm useing an ignition system by Holly.
Thanks.
Snake.

Double Venom · #22 (**permalink**) 05-11-2002, 05:17 AM

Sorry,
I ended up out of town all day yesterday. I'll get it THIS morning.

If I were you, I'd follow the Holley wiring. It should however hook right up to the Roadsters harness to the tack, but either way should work.

DV

Double Venom · #23 (**permalink**) 05-11-2002, 07:19 AM

Ford OEM brake switch - mounts directly to the "stub" coming off the supplied brake pedal.

E9ZZ-13480-A About eight bucks..I think

DV -- 300 Cobras are NOT enough - Now get registered! We're close

Snake · #24 (**permalink**) 05-12-2002, 12:20 AM

Thanks for the Ford part number. I got the weather stripping on the side rails and on the front end. Bolted the two bolts towards the cowl...and bolted them down...pulled the body down to a little more then 1/4 inch...is that about right? Guess what!! The bolt holes in the cowl bar lined up for the doors! Do you try and get, an 1/8 of an inch or, 1/4 of an inch all the way around the doors. Should I mount the bear claws and door posts...then adjust to fit. Still have some trimming to do on the doors...in the front closest to the cowl bar. What would be the best line of attack know DV? After reading one of your other post...you said that you put the windsheild in before you bolted the door area....wish I would have read that first....no big deal...inlarged the windsheild post slots in the body...and got the windsheild in ok.
Thanks DV What's next.
Snake.

Double Venom · #25 (**permalink**) 05-12-2002, 05:05 AM

Snake,
an 1/8th is a little small, 1/4 a little big...in between works good.

Sounds like you have the body down right this time..congrats! Don't forget to drill and tap the mounting holes from the inside of the rockers to the frame! Remember...this will allow you to put the body on in exactly the same location.

If the rear "1/4" lines up to the rear door, then it's time to mount the rear plates. IF the gap is a little large just put a jack with a 2x4 under the very rear edge and lift up the rear a little to align.

Do NOT be shocked when the trunk liner is off the frame by an inch or two, this is normal. I then put the plates on the frame and push them up very tight to the body, clamp in place then weld, (You can bolt them if you want) to the frame. Now with the cockpit bolted in, the rear brackets installed, you can remove and replace the body at will and it will re-align perfectly every time.

Now is the time to cut the bumper holes, and roll bar holes if you are using one. You can also mount the trunk lid at this time.

Here's a little something we do to get the door locks to match up perfect. Take your time and cut out the door latch area. Use the Bear Claw as a final pattern. Look "inside" the door latch area. Chances are it is not perfectly flat. This will keep the latch from fitting against the body tight, allowing it to rock. We take a small 2" grinder and grind the excess fiberglass flat and smooth until the latch fits tight against the jamb. Now check the fit of the brace from the frame to the latch. It should, but rarely does, fit perfect with no gaps.

Do NOT try and pull it up tight if there is a gap! You will only succeed in cracking the door jamp. I know it's ugly but you want to do it right..no? Cut the bracket apart, bolt one end to the frame, the other to the latch, re-install the plate you cut out and re-weld in place. Now your door and latching mechanism will work perfectly!

That should keep you busy for awhile.

DV -- 300 Cobras are NOT enough! Are you registered?

Snake · #26 (**permalink**) 05-12-2002, 08:30 PM

Thanks DV will do. I had already cut the holes for the rollbar...hope it's alright....I have the deck lid already mounted with out the weather striping though. Will need to be adjusted when I can find some weather stripping. Can you beleave that...it's a bummer to find any here...go figure?? I got the drivers door mounted today....took only about 3 hours. The passanger door looks like it will take some time to get that one right. I guess once the doors are set, and the rear of the car is set...you then tap and attach the front end?

Thanks DV you are always a big help...much appreciated !!
Snake.

Snake · #27 (**permalink**) 05-13-2002, 11:01 PM

I guess once the doors are set, and the rear of the car is set...you then tap and attach the front end?

When you cut out the door web....how much do you leave? I'll explain better...do you sand down the edge area flush to the inside body...when I was drilling and tapping...the edge of the inside was interferring with the chuck of the drill....I thought that you would leave about a 1/4 of an inch or so....for when you put the insulation and the carpet in, it would then be flush with the inside....is this right...or should I grind down the inside of the door flush to the inside body...don't know if this makes sence to you.

Thanks.
Snake.

Double Venom · #28 (**permalink**) 05-14-2002, 05:26 AM

Snake,
Makes perfect sense. The cut out for the doors should result in a straight edge from outside to inside with no 90' lip. If you really want to get fancy, on the inside take a small grinder and grind away until the edge is roughly an 1/8" thick, sticking out just about 3/16's - 1/4 seems to be a little to wide. Once the body is down and painted, you can get a roll of "door edge guard" . Put the carpet down then install the edging. Looks great and protects the paint edge.

As far as the "nose" mounting goes, lay the hood in place. Install the bumpe stops and check the height. Not usually necessary but once in a while you may find one forward corner (body) may be a little higher or lower than needed. Just push down or lift up for alignment, mark and attach. Remember, if the gap between the wheel tub and the frame is more than an 1/8" or so, fill the gaps with spacers.

That's all for today!

DV

Snake · #29 (**permalink**) 05-14-2002, 11:18 PM

Thanks DV! I don't have any bumpe stops for the hood...CR didn't have any either? Finding them here is impossable. I think the front right side is low...where the side pipes come out of the body seems to be touching the pipes. The drivers side has an 1" or so before the pipe would touch...I tought of opening the space a little more....but your way my be better...it's just the part about lifting the body up that makes me wonder what I should do...I think if I did that the hood would need to have a spacer under the hood bracket that is attached to the hood? Also wouldn't that make the right side fender have a higher spacer from the tier to the lip of the fender...Does this make any sence to you?

Snake.

Double Venom · #30 (**permalink**) 05-15-2002, 05:09 AM

Snake if all else is equeal, just open up the eshaust port a little more. The Left side DOES require more of an opening, as the motor rocks from left to right. In other words, the right side exhaust will go down, away from the body under full load, where as the left side will obviously come up. Thusly needing a little more clearance.

I know Pete is haveing a hard time find the hood stops at the moment. Seems like the company that has been supplying them for 20 plus years isn't making them anymore.

We're on the search too!

DV -- I KNOW you're registered!

petek · #31 (**permalink**) 05-15-2002, 09:08 AM

An idea for hood stops: go to a hardware store and look for adjustable rubber tipped chair leg ends. The hood stops I got from CR sure looked like the little leveling ends some chairs (and bar stools) have on 'em.

Just an idea...

Snake · #32 (**permalink**) 05-15-2002, 09:54 PM

Thanks guys sounds good...will look into it...and Yes DV...I think all just open up the body opening instead were the pipe is.
Thanks Again.
Snake.

Snake · #33 (**permalink**) 05-22-2002, 10:23 PM

Hey DV! Got the brake pedal switch...kinda a weard looking thing...can you explain how to mount it.
Also I find that the passanger door looks to be twisted...what I mean is when the door is flush to the bottom of the body...it is not flush at the top towards the back end of the door and looking threw the rear fender well were the bear claw would go...the hole were the door post hole is in the door....doesn't line up...looks to be a 1/4 of an inch off. Does this happen often? If I get the door to be flush at both ends...I will need about 1/4 of an inch on the side and on the top to build up the door for it to look right. Have you had this problem before and what is the best root to take.
Thanks.
Snake.

Double Venom · #34 (**permalink**) 05-24-2002, 05:21 AM

Snake,

Seems like there should be a "How to cut the openings" book. If you cut on the line for the Bear Claw striker, before lining up the striker then, yes...it could be off by that much. "ALL: the scribe lines are just a guide and are NOT to be take religously!

The trick here is to line up the door first, then install the striker to the door, then cut out for the Bear Claw, then fit the brace for the Claw to the car.

As far as the "twisted door".... not likely, but possible of course. This is where you get BOTH doors lined up to the "front edges" first. I'd bet that the back of the body is off to either side a little.
In other words it may appear the left door rear edge is out a little on one side, in on the other. Simply stand in the middle of the car, facing to the rear, grab the rear cowling edge and pull / push to the side where the door is sticking out. This is where and when you want to drill and mount the rear deck.

On the brake switch, I made an assumption that you are using the CR's pedals? If so the brake pedal has a large stud coming off the right side. The process for installing the switch: Slide the brake pedal push rod on the shaft first...JUST flush with the outside edge of the stud. Now take the switch, with the slotted side inboard, toward the left with the slot facing up. Sandwhich the pedal with the switch, with the slot in the switch fitting up on the stud, now push the pedal and the switch all the way to the left.
Install a large washer or the stud and install a cotter key.

Your switch is now on. Simply rotate it if necessary to point toward the driver, hook the two wires up and you now have a full functioning brake light switch!

Could have put a dozen switches on in the time it takes me to type this!

Hope it helps!

DV -- We are soooo close! Register, buy your raffle tickets, and be ready to rumble! We are going to set Central Ohio on its ear!

Snake · #35 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 10:39 PM

Jim was talking aout this....The wiring set up for the electric fan has been troublesome as I have heard of several other CR cobra owners having the same troubles. Again DV can help you with this. I ended up dumping the thermostat control that came with the fan and purchased one from Jeg's that actually has a thermostat that fits into your radiator drain. I then has a relay with a control knob that you can attach to your frame. This is a much better setup that I used at DV's recommendation.

What I would need from you is a part number for the thermostat that fits into the radiator drain and I guess a relay. Also some help in conecting this all up...all I got is the fan from CR...I got it from the guy I bought the body from.
Thanks DV.
Snake.