Gauge question??

[brandonF]

What do you guys use, electric or mechanical? And why?

[Whaler]

I like mechanical because they are more responsive and are not buffered somewhat by the need for electrical sender to convert from measured process signal to electrical signal.
Resistance in the smallest form on contacts or grounds affected by pipe sealants/teflon tape can play havoc on reliable readings.

Mechanicals also have a better looking sweep..usually more degrees of the face is gauge reading.

Mechanical lines can be a chore to connect and run in a nicer neater look as electrical are as simple as running a wire to the dash. Thats the only drawback on installation.

For isolation from the process, mechanical has the potential to let go and leak anywhere in the line or the dash. Electrical keeps the measured process where it is at and will not route it up to the gauge.

Mechanical if done right are great.

whaler

PS Mine are the Autometer cobra series...Smiths replicas but with the autometer guts

[Mr.Fixit]

Definately always mechanical. Their feedback is isolated fro any other systems. I hate to think that my oil pressure gauge requires the correct operation of the electrical charging system. Their response is quicker. The gauge faces do look better. Installation is is bit more of a hassle.

[Back in Black]

Because my WCC turn key requires electrical gauges. The standard West Coast gauges are VDO black bezels, I did not like those, so found a set that looks very much like the 289 FIA set, but with 10 total gauges. They are the Classic series chrome ring from Autometer. From everything I hear, and from the fact that most new gauges in modern cars ARE electrical, I expect few if any problems. There ARE lots of problems with certain makes of mechanical gauges, such as SW and Smiths, etc... just look thru the archives to find sorrow stories aplenty

[Double Venom]

To me, for what it is worth, either type works fine for our purposes.

My only concern is a "mechanical" oil gauge. I simply do not like the idea of a plastic line, or even a soft copper line running from the engine, down the side, crossing the gap to the firewall, through the firewall and then up to to gauge. If this lines breaks between the engine and the firewall you have a horrendous chance of fire.

If it breaks from the firewall to the gauge, filling up the cockpit with hot oil would not be a fun thing either. Then, if it does break or leak on the outside it takes literally seconds to pump all the oil out of the engine. Am I paranoid about this? You betcha! It happened to me, put a rod right through the side of a brand new block.

Running either a nylon or copper line is asking for trouble. Kind of like a computer: The question is not, will it crash, but when!

Back to my corner.

DV -- The numbers are screaming -- are you registered?

[wilf leek]

I much prefer the look of mechanical gauges with their 270 degree needle sweeps. Also I am highly suspicious of the accuracy of electrical instruments, in fact worse than suspicious.
The downside is the pain of capillary tubes and oil pressure lines to route and make look tidy, but it can be done.
I echo DV's comments about plastic (which can melt) or copper (it work hardens and fractures if subjected to vibration). That's why my oil pressure guage line is run in aeroquip -3 stainless braided and pvc coated line.

With the exception of the warning about the oil pressure line, I guess it's all down to personal choice.

[Whaler]

"Running either a nylon or copper line is asking for trouble. Kind of like a computer: The question is not, will it crash, but when!"


I have really done what Wilf has done. My gauges by Autometer denmand nothing less than an an-3 or an-4 steel braided line to connect the gage to the engine oil port

Their setup using a 6 foot hose was $115 CDN. So after a suggestion from a friend, I was off to the local fluidics shop and ordered up the aeroquip industrial equivalents of their automotive line and a 6 foot length of hose to match. Hydraulics with aeroquip stamped appropriately along. (MatchMates) All an-4 and all crimped for me.
Looks good coming off my remore oil filter adapter which already house the an-8 aeroquip for the oil fiter and cooler runs

Cost $44 CDN.

I already gave autometer $425US on the gages...no more LOL

Should be no problemo

Tim

[petek]

Electrical gauges simply because they are easier to install and I can pull the dash out of the car without having to disconnect a bunch of fluid lines.

[Double Venom]

Darn!

I never gave a thought to the braided lines! Insert picture of me kicking myself!)

I mean, we use the same lines for brake line connections!

All righty then. Braided it is!
DV

[wilf leek]

DV - you cannot be serious??? I did something you hadn't thought about? Unbelievable! Maybe I ought to go build another car straight away so that all this wonderful knowledge can be put to good use?
Actually, I think it could well be a few years before I summons up the strength to build another. This last one was a real labour of love.

Whaler - I would have thought that -8 was a bit small for oil lines? I ran mine in -12, which I think equates to 3/4" bore, boy did the fittings cost, especially with the added complication of the Accusump. And the non return valve alone was £90!

[Snake]

How do you hook up the oil presure gauge. I havs a Stewart Warner gauge with sender...and have no idea how to hook it up.
Sounds stupid...but the instuctions don't explain anything on how to hook it up to the engine and were. I've got a 85 Mustang 302 HO...if this helps.
Can you help me out!
Thanks.
Snake.

[Double Venom]

Snake,
Assuming you have an electrical guage, take the matching sending unit and attach it - screw it in to the left front side of the block. You may have to have an adapter or extension from the block so that the sender fits.

You then wire the sending unit directly to the "S" terminal on the back of the guage. You will then hook up an ignition wire (hot-key on only) to the "I" terminal. "G" goes to ground. There you have it.

Do not put teflon tape or goo on the sending unit threads. The sending unit has to ground at the block.

Wilf: Honestly, I just never gave the reinforced line a thought! I find that a huge brain fade on my part! In fact I was going through one of my hi-tech racing catalogs yesterday for parts on our new E-M Cobra we're building. Right there in the middle of the magazine they show a set of the most awesome guages I have ever seen, and lo and behold, they have the braided Oil pressure line hooked up!

Oh well! Once again I prove the old addage wrong! You can teach an Ol' Dog new tricks! Thank you again for that one!

Just a side note to Petek: Jim thinks your his best buddy right now! He loves the schematic you sent. It will be done!

DV -- We need your support and presence at the Fling. 300 Cobras ARE going to be one awesome sight to see!
Are you registered?

[DAVIDMORE]

What do I need to convert my mechanical gauge into an electrical gauge???????HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111!@#@#23

[brandonF]

You would need to replace the whole gauge. you cannot convert a mechanical gauge to an electric gauge. the electric gauge should come with the sending unit.