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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 07-05-2002, 07:29 PM
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Default Question on lowering engine and front end

I just spent about an hour searching and reading in the forum and want to make sure I got the information correct...

Lowering the engine 1” … new motor mount weldments from Classic Roadsters; new motor mounts (NAPA 602-1639); new transmission mount (NAPA 602-1334). I’ve got a 351 crate motor, currently using the hard to get motor mounts and the standard (circa 1991) CRL motor mounts.

Lowering the front end of the car … the current ride height on my CR Cobra is 7 inches from ground to the forward frame member under the oil snout. Somewhere on the forum I read that this distance should be 5”. Frankly the 2” drop would make the gap between the front tire and fender lip look substantially better! Reading in the forum the solution seems to be coil overs from Tom Beroth at Bethania Garage (http://www.bethania-garage.com). Sound ok to everyone? dscott – don’t you also sell front coil overs?

Lowering the rear … hey, real easy, just crank on the jack screws! But I’ve got a different problem on the rear of my Cobra – I think the springs are much too soft. With two passengers the car seems to bottom out easily (something ends up sound like it’s rubbing). Again from the forum the solution appears to be stiffer springs, 13” x 250 lb. Sound right? What happens if I go another 50 lbs to 300? DV – don’t you sell rear springs?

thanks!
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Old 07-05-2002, 07:35 PM
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Petek,
You're right on all the way around. Sounds like you used the stock CR's older suspension set up. Did you cut a coil from the front springs?

Tommy's uses Carerra's and they work great, don't know if Don has them or not. 13x250's are really the way to go for street and a little drag/ato cross use. I've used 300's, does stiffen it up a bit, but an old guy with crushed discs really like the 250's.
(We use "Blue Coils").

DV
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Old 07-05-2002, 10:11 PM
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DV,

Thanks for the confirmation(s).

I used CRL's springs and, like a dummy, made the assumption that they had already cut out a coil.

I'm really leaning towards coil overs up front ... if for no other reason than to give the car adjustable ride height in all four corners.

thanks again
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Old 07-07-2002, 10:34 AM
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Petek,

We have nearly identical cars.

Front suspension.

Using Heidts upper "D" arms. Heidts is good, but so are others from Beroth, RCC, so long as it is a "D" arm to clear CR upper spring mount.

Installed Tom Beroth's upper control arm brackets, in fact just got it out of the alignment shop yeaterday. Arms now adjust with shims, and stay put. Get a set, but ask Tom to include 1" length bracket bolts and standard suspension nuts w/o welded piece on nut, and 2 1/2" arm bolts. The bracket bolts were too long, and the arm bolts too short.

Used RCC's tubular lowers with a standard strut rod. RCC is (www.dwayne9.addr.com). Reason is shock mounts lower than straight through arm allowing a little more motion. They sell uppers as well, and are familiar with CR suspension. Recommend Beroth's upper bracket to the RCC one.

Used the Carerra coil overs from RCC with 375# spring. Eventually, I'll replace the Carerra with a Koni, but the Carerras work OK for now.

Can give you "what worked for me" options on brakes, and power steering if you'd like.

Rear springs. Chevette station wagon load leveller, progressive wound springs by Moog go in unmodified, work well, and are available from any Auto Parts store. Part # is either 663, or 633. There is only one spring you can get for a Chevette rear. About $70/pr. Am using Koni part cross referenced from VW part in CR manual. They work fine.

Engine & trans mount. Using Energy Suspension late Mustang engine & trans urethane mounts. These use a stud, and 14mm bolt. Think Don, and DV have these frame mounts. The 351 mounts 3/4" - 1" lower than 302. Trans has to be lowered same amount so sidepipes sit level, and engine isn't tilted foreward. You'll need a smaller diameter crank pulley. The Ford one hits the frame. The March aluminum one works fine.

Installed your clutch cable yet? Problems you can avoid.

Last edited by Jack21; 07-07-2002 at 10:42 AM..
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Old 07-07-2002, 10:47 AM
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Petek, The ideal way to go would be coilovers all the way around. If you don't use them on the rear I would go for a good Pro-Shock. The ride will be great and you lose the clunking sound. The problem with the rear is the gas shocks, they are much to stiff and don't let the car rebound properly. The Pro-shock is oil filled and has a light valve.

The front coilovers run $375 a pair for Carrera's. The come with a 375lb spring, all chrome. The rear coilovers run $390.00 and come with the proper adapters, all chrome made by Pro-shocks. The oil shocks are $90 a pair. The rear springs I use are blue coils, 225 lb. A 300 lb spring would be too stiff. The 225lb spring sets the car just right and doesn't bottom out. I do sell them all.

The new motor mounts from Classic will drop the engine 3/4". It will allow you to use a manifold like the Edelbrock performer rpm with enough clearance for the air cleaner.
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Old 07-07-2002, 08:33 PM
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Jack, Don, thanks! I'm not quite ready for four corner coil overs ... make that my pocket book isn't quite ready :-)

I'm using the March pulleys so dropping the engine down 3/4" shouldn't be too much of a problem ... perhaps some clearance issues at the oil filter (I've got a remote filter and a preluber there), oh, and the potential interferance between the steering linkage and the lower radiator hose. Won't know for sure until I try.

I'll give you a call tomorrow Don ... If I can find your phone number
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Old 07-08-2002, 07:22 AM
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Phone number is 1-888-722-6272.
Don
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Old 07-08-2002, 05:01 PM
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Oil filter for 351W CR's is PH43. Also cross references to SB Mopars so it's a decent sized filter for the 351 sized engine. Found it in a cross reference. Standard Ford PH8 will NOT fit the 351, and only barely fits the 302 in stock location. Too long. PH 16 used in 302 powered MII's will fit and work, but kinda short. PH (or XG) 43 seems to get the job done.

There is no interference between the lower rad hose, and steering linkage. Granted, everything is a tight fit on the drivers side of the engine, and has to be mocked up first to check everything, but it all fits...just. (Add power steering, and things get tighter still).

Last edited by Jack21; 07-08-2002 at 05:07 PM..
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Old 07-08-2002, 07:54 PM
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Jack,

My oil filter has been relocated to the other side of the engine (along with a oil thermostat for the oil cooler). I'm using a much larger oil filter (PH8? PH1? heck, I don't remember). After talking with Don today I don't think I'll be lowering my engine. The Holley Projection with air cleaner *just* clears the hood. I may look into a dropped air cleaner to see if I can pick up a little more room.

Power steering? Naw, I don't think so. If I put power steering in then the wife would be taking the Cobra every day!


Don,

Thanks for the conversation and assistance today! I'll be cutting the front springs and eagerly awaiting the rear coil overs. Later (and after I've saved my allowance) I'll be coverting the front to tubular and getting those front coil overs.

thanks again everyone!
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