Double Venom suspension question

[Curt C.]

What are your spring rates in the front and rear? Put the front bar back on. In front, I have QA1 coilovers 500lb, Behtania A arms, the CR front bar. In back its 9 inch ford, Bilstein coilovers (250 lb) along with a 1979 4 cylinder sway. I had the larger CR rear sway bar and it was way too much - severe oversteer. Car does well on the road course and keeps up with modern day marques. However, the four link Ford has inherent issues with bind. It would be nice to have a 3 link or torque arm / watts link but this would have to be customized. I know of no CR's with this setup. Before you start spending money, put the front bar back on and see if that helps.

[Double Venom]

dvcobra,
You are running exactly what I ran for auto cross how ever the rear bar is critical but I did REMOVE the front bar. The front bar is the one that is to heavy not the back one. If you have a little ability it is very easy to make a front bar of lighter material. (SPEEDWAY.COM has all the material you need to put one together.) The one I used with the "Double Venom" cars with the Viper engines- over 150 lbs lighter than a Ford BB all dressed.) was a tubular design roughly a 1/2 in diameter.

OK, a few tips I learned at Hondas track; what motor are you running, do you know the weight on the front. What rate springs are you using? Adjusting the fronts- good luck and if you find a better way please let me know!
I ended up taking the front springs apart and putting a thin but even coat of "anti-seize" on the front coil threads. Makes track adjustments much easier!

If you saw the thread about boxing in the rear lower control arms and haven't done it, this is the perfect reason to do so.

Scales? Have you had your car scaled? Very easy, time consuming and critical for auto-crossing, You will or should be able to get a CR cobra right at
48/52% with a driver in the car. Move your battery to the right hand pocket of the trunk. (Please run a long ground '00' from the battery to the motor.) Running the battery ground to the frame, although short run and cheaper it can effect your electrical system, especially if you are running EFI or an MSD
type box.

Carrera shocks have three settings, a stepped tooth design on the housing, we set this tooth to the middle setting.

As Curt C says 250 rates on the rears seem to work ok, but I need to know what weight you are pushing around the track on the front.
Is the front end 'plowing' in the turns or is the rear end too loose?

If you get all this done you may find out that you need a removable front spoiler/air dam to keep the front end down on the straights, as the car will want to go nose light once you get in the 130 mph range or higher. The front air dam should go corner to corner on the car and be no more than 1" off the ground.

A little -fun- type work, another small investment, a little driving time and it will be a long time before anyone in your class passes you on the track!
Keep me posted!
DV

Second time I've tried to edit: Went back and saw what engine you are using-excellent choice! Steering? Manual or power? What rack?

[dvcobra]

DV, here are the answere's to your questions; steering-Flaming River manual steering with your steering column, engine-351W with cast iron heads, front carrera coil overs with 350lb spring rate, rear springs are 200lb with pro shock from Bethania, rear end is a Currie 9" set up for 8.8 suspension components, I run Hoosier road racing radial. I balanced the car and was able to achieve 48/52 & battery is located in trunk on right side.
Handling- the car feels as though it is just leaning too much into a hard fast turn & the tires occasionally rub. As far as plowing or loose rear end, it's hard to say, sometimes it plows and sometimes it feels like the rear is about to slide out.
In conclusion- it sounds like I should change the rear spring rate to 250lb and re-install the larger sway bar in the rear and no sway bar in the front, is this correct? should I do anything to the front end or should this take care of the body roll?
If the rear is too soft, does this cause plowing or loose rear end?
I also have some photo's of the car on the turns showing the body roll if it will help.
Thanks for your quick response and time.