I am finally able to afford a Cobra Replica - Please help me decide on one

[TButtrick]

Originally Posted by jagxjr5012

Here is an ERA for $44k...looks like a nice car.....$40k might buy it...

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...uct=1641&cat=2

Damn good deal for someone. I'd love to see more details on the car.

Originally Posted by jagxjr5012

If you go to Factory Five it would surely be over....buy an ERA

Ignorance is bliss. Publicly displaying it goes to a whole other level of stupidity.

[madmaxx]

Go to cobra country, greater cincinatti performance cars has a new bdr with a fully polished roush 427sr for $49,900. 92" wheel base gives plenty of leg room. I do not think there is a better deal right now, my gut feeling is if you wanted a different color he would build one for about the same price but that is just my opinion and I have not spoken with him. Your next best deal on a new spf would be shane miller at dynamic. Depending on what state you live in there are huge advantages to buying new. For example in Texas you do not pay sales tax the first time you title an assemlbed vehicle. on a $60K car this saves $3600. Remeber with new you get a warranty, but warranties are all but useless unless you have a catastrophic problem unless the dealer is 2 miles from your house.

[TButtrick]

Given his criteria, I'd wait for the Factory Five Dick Smith clone and have the best of everything he's looking for with change to spare. I can point out inaccuracies with the best of them and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

...and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... did they ever get around to cleaning up that rear shock mess? You know, the one that was preceded by the "Danger - Do Not Drive Your Car" announcement.

[TButtrick]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yeah, yeah, yeah... did they ever get around to cleaning up that rear shock mess? You know, the one that was preceded by the "Danger - Do Not Drive Your Car" announcement.

It was the front shocks and yes it was cleaned up. I didn't have the poorly-recommended Bilstein shocks myself so I never had an issue. +60,000 plus miles on my FFR and no problems, no squeeks, no rattles to report. I'd buy another in a heartbeat. No regrets and I have two in the garage.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

It was the front shocks and yes it was cleaned up.

Ahhh, memories... like the corners of my mind.

Here's one of the threads, for posterity.... Factory Five Warning!

Originally Posted by jhv48

FACTORYFIVERACING
Senior Charter Member



Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 368 That does it.

To:****** All FFR customers:* If you are driving an FFR chassis kit that uses Bilstein shock absorber part numbers:
*
F4BE3 A273-T0
F4BE3 A273-T1
F4BE3 A273 T0 SR

Stop driving your car immediately.

There is a possibility that the shock absorbers on your car may break/fail and could result in your injury or the injury of others.

These numbers are stamped on the shock body and these shocks were used on the front suspension and the rear independent suspension kits from about 2003 to August 1, 2008. *If you do not know how to determine if your car is affected, please call us at 508-291-3443 and ask for technical support.

There are no further answers for you guys tonight. I will be directing the staff at FFR to communicate this initial message to all affected customers via our website, our mailing list and records, and verbally to our customers, suppliers and clients.

I am truly sorry for this inconvenience and look forward to being able to communicate an action plan to all of you shortly.


Dave Smith
President


This was just posted to the FFR Forum, thought everyone should be aware.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Given his criteria, I'd wait for the Factory Five Dick Smith clone and have the best of everything he's looking for with change to spare. I can point out inaccuracies with the best of them and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

Again, it's important for him to have full knowledge of all that is different in these cars that we all enjoy so much. He may not understand yet that with FFR he's going to get a solid rear axle (yes, I know he can get an IRS, but percentage wise few of these are built). He needs to know the difference, and what plusses and minuses these solid axles bring to the table. I'm not knocking FFR's, so any of you FFR guys please don't get your panties in a wad as some are prone to do around here when "their" cars are spoken about. FFR serves a niche in this industry and it serves it well, but at the end of the day, like any other car they have their plusses and they certaily have their minuses. The shape of the body is only one of them. He neeeds to sit back and learn about all the cars and the features that differentiate all of threm. ONly then can he make his choice. We are all too often eager to tell people that "our" brand car is infallible and clearly the choice to those looking, and often this is simply not the best advice. Education without bias is the key. It is often very hard to find around here.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

Again, it's important for him to have full knowledge of all that is different in these cars that we all enjoy so much. He may not understand yet that with FFR he's going to get a solid rear axle (yes, I know he can get an IRS, but percentage wise few of these are built). He needs to know the difference, and what plusses and minuses these solid axles bring to the table. I'm not knocking FFR's, so any of you FFR guys please don't get your panties in a wad as some are prone to do around here when "their" cars are spoken about. FFR serves a niche in this industry and it serves it well, but at the end of the day, like any other car they have their plusses and they certaily have their minuses. The shape of the body is only one of them. He neeeds to sit back and learn about all the cars and the features that differentiate all of threm. ONly then can he make his choice. We are all too often eager to tell people that "our" brand car is infallible and clearly the choice to those looking, and often this is simply not the best advice. Education without bias is the key. It is often very hard to find around here.

767Jockey -- obviously you think FFR cars suck.

[TButtrick]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

Again, it's important for him to have full knowledge of all that is different in these cars that we all enjoy so much. He may not understand yet that with FFR he's going to get a solid rear axle (yes, I know he can get an IRS, but percentage wise few of these are built). He needs to know the difference, and what plusses and minuses these solid axles bring to the table. I'm not knocking FFR's, so any of you FFR guys please don't get your panties in a wad as some are prone to do around here when "their" cars are spoken about. FFR serves a niche in this industry and it serves it well, but at the end of the day, like any other car they have their plusses and they certaily have their minuses. The shape of the body is only one of them. He neeeds to sit back and learn about all the cars and the features that differentiate all of threm. ONly then can he make his choice. We are all too often eager to tell people that "our" brand car is infallible and clearly the choice to those looking, and often this is simply not the best advice. Education without bias is the key. It is often very hard to find around here.

I couldn't agree with you more...except that you don't GET any rear with FFR so you need to figure that into the equation when comparing apples to apples. FFR gives you a choice and there are many more than a few that are running the T-bird rear. I'm not a kool-aid drinking fool but I do think these cars get a bad rap from a few on this forum. If I went and bought a KMS or ERA tomorrow, I'd still say FFR are the best bang for the buck if you want to build your own and enjoy the experience of doing so. Not the most accurate but if set up correctly, (read.. cheap mustang aftermarket stuff) it will run with the big-dogs.

Originally Posted by patrickt

Remember that the drive shaft in our Cobras is pretty darn short. With a solid rear, the wheel travel becomes a real issue -- you're going to bottom out your shocks with softer springs and you're going to have an uncomfortable ride with springs that are stiff enough to do the job. While it's debatable, this just might be the most sophisticated rear in any of the Cobra cars (it also gives you the beauty of outboard brakes): http://www.erareplicas.com/427/frsusp.htm

Sorry.. but that statement just isn't accurate. Wheel travel is still an "issue" with an independent rear. You just move the "issue" to the half shafts where there are four u joints instead of two. Ridiculous statement.

Originally Posted by patrickt

Unless you're building a pure dragster only, there are no advantages to a solid. Ride, comfort, performance, and control hands-down favor the independent rear. It's not even close; you'll want a limited slip of course as well. There's also a safety issue -- these cars, on occasion will come out from under you on hard acceleration. Some call it "snap-oversteer" and it can be quite dangerous. A quality rear that is properly set-up will help reduce this rather nasty characteristic.

A properly set up three link, solid axle rear gives you close to independent rear performance and ride and adds the reliability of a solid axle car. Go to the strip or go to the track and it will be happy at both. The Shelby 08 GT500 is the same, limitted slip three link rear and they actually race these cars. Never heard of "snap-oversteer" before. Did you make this up? Oversteer is oversteer. The back comes around before the front. If this happens, the car isn't set up correctly. If you're talking about straight line acceleration, either the car has no limited slip or the clutch pack is bad in the limited slip diff. period. BTW... "torque steer" has absolutely nothing to do with a solid axle car. It's a term used to describe the torque of a front wheel drive car under acceleration.

[patrickt]

TButtrick -- Dang, sensitive aren't we? No, I didn't make it up. Read this: http://www.erareplicas.com/427/rsusp.htm

[TButtrick]

Originally Posted by patrickt

TButtrick -- Dang, sensitive aren't we? No, I didn't make it up. Read this: http://www.erareplicas.com/427/rsusp.htm

OK then.. I guess we have the Kool-Aid thing under control.

[Redlinne]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Given his criteria, I'd wait for the Factory Five Dick Smith clone and have the best of everything he's looking for with change to spare. I can point out inaccuracies with the best of them and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

Do you know when they are going to release the Dick Smith car?

[RedBarchetta]

Scrivy,

I think you have received a lot of good advice here from several knowledgeable folks. Being 6'3" myself, the primary question I had to answer was "Which car can I comfortably fit in without losing the authentic look of an original?" The second question I had to also consider was my budget. The two answers led me to a used Superformance with a stroked SB. Said another way, I bought as much Cobra as I could afford.

Your stated budget of $40-70K is a really wide swath. My own budget was on the lower end of yours. Had it been to the higher end, I would have considered BB cars and other brands (i.e. ERA). But don't fall into the trap of buying/building a car only to be disappointed that the Cobra experience is not what you thought it would be. We all remember "Rob" here, a guy that had a dream and proceeded to spend $100K+ on a really nice Kirkham. He then drove the car and realized how raw it was, then sold it and bought a Corvette instead. Ruined dreams and a wasted effort (it was good entertainment value for those of us that actually wrench on our own cars).

If you're already beyond the "raw ride" aspects of a Cobra and are 100% certain that you want to proceed to ownership, then I'd recommend that you stick to the higher end of your budget and get the most car/best car you can. Boy, in today's market with that kind of budget I'd probably post something like this, "Wanted. RED ERA with BB. Must be clean. Ready to buy the right car right now. Call me at xxx-xxx-xxxx." I guarantee you that word will get around and you will get calls (even from people not with the exact car, but you will get action). Be like an F-22 Raptor pilot on a bombing run...lock-in to your target and don't be swayed by the AAA/flak.

Good luck on the hunt and let us know what you end up with! It's a buyer's market...great timing on your part.

-Dean SPF #747

[Scrivy]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Scrivy,

I think you have received a lot of good advice here from several knowledgeable folks. Being 6'3" myself, the primary question I had to answer was "Which car can I comfortably fit in without losing the authentic look of an original?"

-Dean SPF #747

This is a great place to start. Can anyone that is 6'3" or taller share with me the manufacturer of any car that they have sat in and felt comfortable and also any car manufacturer that they have felt cramped in?

Thanks,
Scrivy

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Scrivy

Can anyone that is 6'3" or taller share with me the manufacturer of any car that they have sat in and felt comfortable and also any car manufacturer that they have felt cramped in?

I'm 6'4" -- my ERA fits me great. BUT, the pedals were moved back and spread a part a bit (for my 12EEE's) and the seats were moved back, padding reduced, and bolted directly to the floor. When I'm behind the wheel I look like I'm 5'10".

EDIT -- I also sat in Peter P.'s ERA -- I looked over the windshield and my knees were jammed in to the steering wheel. It would have been pretty hard for me to have driven it. That being said, it's all in how the car is set up.

[madmaxx]

Below prettty much some it all, you either love cobras or hate them, there is no in between. If you do not like wrenching on cars, smelling like gasoline, and having the fastest street legal zero to 60 car on the planet do not make a mistake of buying one. Rob went from ordereing a spf selling for a $8K loss on just the chassis, to buying a kirkham for $118K and trading in for $90K on a vette. If you are not sure, buy a used spf with about 400 hp for $45K, at least if you do not like it you will get all your money back.




[quote=RedBarchetta;901081]Scrivy,

.. We all remember "Rob" here, a guy that had a dream and proceeded to spend $100K+ on a really nice Kirkham. He then drove the car and realized how raw it was, then sold it and bought a Corvette instead. Ruined dreams and a wasted effort (it was good entertainment value for those of us that actually wrench on our own cars).

.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Scrivy,

.. We all remember "Rob" here, a guy that had a dream and proceeded to spend $100K+ on a really nice Kirkham. He then drove the car and realized how raw it was, then sold it and bought a Corvette instead. Ruined dreams and a wasted effort (it was good entertainment value for those of us that actually wrench on our own cars).

.

Ahhh, RSIMOES. Man, talk about a bummer thread. BUT, it is must-reading for Scrivy and anyone else thinking about building their "dream car." Here it is:
Kirkham on eBay

That was a "preliminary" thread. This is the real deal: New to the Cobra world? Have you always dreamed of having a Cobra? Read carefully.

[CNGreen]

Scrivy, I posted this in another thread, but in regards to size, you may find it useful...

I'm 6'6" and, sad to say, 280#. Size 15 shoe.

I'm a first time builder and chose FFR for a lot of reasons I won't get into here. But one of them is customization. You didn't say if building was an option but by doing some basic mods to a standard build I've gained ~4" of legroom. The first is a simple way to gain ~2" and, I would assume, could be done on any car. I have a Kirkey lowback seat mounted to the floor all the way back. The seat is made out of aluminum and is therefor very thin. For the add'l ~2" I bolted in a vendors adjustable Wilwood pedals and adjusted them all the way forward. Other comfort mods: I trimmed the brake pedal, got aftermarket driver's footbox aluminum and bent my throttle. I'm go-carting it now in tennis shoes, which is better than I had hoped for at the beginning of the build. I have some Simpson driving shoes and there is plenty of room with those on. I'm doing some add'l clutch foot mods as well; re-doing the footbox crash bar, which really doesn't work for us Sasquatch. Lastly, I'm also adding a dead-pedal.

BTW if you plan to buy something turn-key instead of building, you could always have a pro build it for you with those mods.

HTH,



PS my car has IRS with a torsen rear end, Trigo wheels, a new fuel injected BOSS 302 and Wilwood brakes, yada yada. Right up your alley and can be built by you for 50K... or, with the prices the way they are right now, could probably be found for less used.

[patrickt]

Sorry, here is the correct thread:
New to the Cobra world? Have you always dreamed of having a Cobra? Read carefully.

[Scrivy]

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I really have much to learn and I will take your advice and enjoy the search. Its really refreshing to have a site like this one where people can respectfully debate and correct one another without the being mean to one another. Thanks again for your hospitality.

Can someone list the pros and cons of IRS vs solid axle. I will do some more research but would like have some opinions also. Maybe someone that has built and used both systems.

Scrivy