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Thanks for the reply.
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The right side wheel went on to the pins no problem. On the left side I used a lead hammer and "adjusted" the pins to slide into the template a bit easier, and the wheel went on with some coaxing.
But now I have another problem. On the driver's side, there is 1.5" between the back of the front tire and the fender, and when the wheel is turned, it interferes with the fender (the painted part, not the well). On the passenger side, there is 2.0" between the back of the front wheel and the fender, so it (barely) clears the fender when turned. I assembled each side with both upper and lower A arms offset to the front, and I double checked this. The tires are correctly sized at 225/65-15. I understand the car is on the dollies and isn't yet loaded, but this seems like a problem if turning with the wheels unloaded (maybe I'd have to be flying, dunno). I'll speak with the guys at ERA tomorrow to see what they say. In the meantime any experience with this would be appreciated. |
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They cover the possibility of this driver side interference in their manual - I think it has something to do with the slight differences in the right side and left side body panels that were duplicated from the orginal car. These cars (orig and most replicas) just aren't symetrical from side to side. I had to grind the lower lip on mine slightly for clearance. I haven't touched up the paint yet because I haven't aligned the suspension. The caster/camber will affect how much interference there is. Good deal you got the knockoffs worked out. After they have been off and on a few times, they seem to go a little easier. |
The front tires are incorrect- they should be 60 series not 65. They are too tall.
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I missed the tire size in Lippy's thread. Yes, those are probably the same heigth tires as my 215/70-15 tires. Same interference.
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I spoke with ERA this morning and they said this is typical and the wheel/tire should clear when the car is loaded. They also said it is extremely unlikely to encounter a situation while driving where the suspension suspends fully while the wheel is turned. I guess I'll wait until I have the engine in to see what it looks like.
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I had 4 sets of Hoosier TD's, size 245 / 60 on the fronts for 8 years. Like all ERA's with any tire, the driver front will rub on the inner fender panel (where the screen vent is) and the pass side will rub a little less. That's only at full lock at parking speeds. You're never at full lock any other time, even in auto-x. For the record, my front BB's with 26.5" diameter had a circumference average of 82.875 to 83.187 and rubbed no worse than the TD's. It's always wise to check circumferences and adjust up to the highest (or have a bad set shaved). Radials are more closely sized but I'd check anyway. |
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Not a normal condition for Cobra driving. |
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Managed to get the rear suspension in. I made a simple wooden platform with a hole that fit over the circular mount on the floor jack and provided quite a bit of stability. With the platform it was easy to jack the suspension subassembly into place and bolt it in. I only made one small dent in the concrete floor in the process.
We also planned where to mount the rear fuel filter, ordered some of the fuel components, and started to cut holes for the speakers. I will run a small but powerful JL Audio Class D 600/4 amp in the trunk powering 4 JL Audio 5-1/4" speakers - two behind the seats and two in the footboxes (they will *barely* fit). The amp has a neat feature where you can plug any source (e.g., iPhone, through the Lightning line-level jack) into the line in on the amp and control the volume of the amp with an accessory pot that JL Audio provides. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3741/9...473e2a8c_c.jpg Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5496/9...f09cb5d8_c.jpg Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/9...03848468_c.jpg Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr |
Nice progress … better a dent in the floor than in your Cobra ;)
I like the look of the dual coil over shocks, can't wait to see what it looks like with the FIA wheels. Are you mounting the battery in the right rear fender? Will you use a bulkhead battery cut off switch or the dash mounted racing type with the red key? |
TKB,
I'm just mounting the battery under the hood. I will have a simple disconnect just on the battery, and an interrupt switch on the MSD box. |
I did not know there was room under the hood, especially with a big block motor. Any photos of where it mounts? Will you be using any special heat shielding?
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