Modifying the Hurricane

barabar · #1 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 06:26 PM

This is the cross member I finished up for the Hurricane. How do those welds look??

jwd · #2 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 07:26 PM

I guess I have to ask, what is the purpose of your post other to point out that somebody should take a class on welding?

barabar · #3 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 08:30 PM

You must need help those are only TACK WELDS! Or maybe your not wearing your coke bottles? Just a tip, don't look at the sun.

The painted existing welds aren't mine, but will be cleaned up. The weld on the left side of the shock hanger is mine. I will post when I'm through burning it in.

fastraxsg · #4 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 07:51 AM

How about using a smaller image size to post with, kinda hard to see unless we downsize the screen, then we can't read the type. Try something in the 800 x 640 range and it will come out nice. Also, how about filling us in on why your are modifiying your Hurricane? I'm interested, I've got 1081.

There is a possible shear point right in front of the footbox location where the frame is angled, might want to consider doing something with that too.

barabar · #5 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 11:23 AM

Let me explain,
I'm trying to accomplish 3 things, Street/Strip/Roadcourse. The HP is around 1000hp, 700hp 521 cu in cj BBF 4 BOLT NA and 300hp NOS to be stage in at 150hp 3rd and 150hp 4th gear. (please don't ring in and tell me you can only get 450hp to hook up) You can get as much hp as you can control. Remember, IT IS BETTER TO HAVE THE HP AND NOT NEED IT THEN TO NEED IT AND NOT HAVE IT.
THE FRAME--I've silhouetted the rear portion of the frame with 3/8 steel, also removed the1"X1" rear frame braces and tacked welded in 2"X4"X3/16" and countless gussets. (see pictures) Also ran 2"X2"X3/16" down each side of the frame, inside the square tubing I ran round tubing to accommodate electrical on one side and fuel on the other side. (will send more pictures) I have reinforced the rear cross member (see pictures) to avoid fabricating a cross member behind the engine.(wait and see).
I hope I've answered your questions. Who am I speaking with? Mike.

LMH · #6 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 11:31 AM

The tubing on the frame for wire and fuel sounds interesting. I'd like to see those photos.
Larry

danc30 · #7 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 03:20 PM

Sounds like a sweet set up. Can't wait to see that thing run.

You can also go to the Hurricane website for more info. If you own one you can get access to the "darkside"........

Dan- HM1073

PS- My screen is large enough to see the whole picture (24"LCD). They look great. (Sorry Fuzzy)

fastraxsg · #8 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 08:31 PM

Hi Mike, please don't take things as being offensive here. There wasn't much information with your first post so it was a bit ????? Sounds like this will be a real killer combination and probably help keep the tire companies in business in these lean times....it certainly should have plenty of go....
As Dan mentioned, the Hurricane Forum is an interesting place to visit and there is an owner's side available, sounds more like we could benefit from your experiences than the other way around.
I've got HM1081 on the build threads under NorJak Hurricane. I've just building a mild street car for fun. Not enough expertise to do major mods or build wild motors. keep us posted, send more photos, sorry, I only have a little 38 cm wide LCD flat screen.

barabar · #9 (**permalink**) 02-08-2009, 09:31 AM

These are just a few pictures pertaining to the tubing and fuel lines runing down the drivers side. This IS NOT the finished version. The tubing will be covered that runs through the foot box.
About the shear point----Yes that is going to be refabricated, (a 3/8 plate on the outside of the frame should take care of it) because I had to move the motor mounts back 1 1/2" along with the motor to have room for the AC and PS units.

barabar · #10 (**permalink**) 02-15-2009, 07:29 PM

Fuel line, return line & NOS on drivers side, inside added frame rail. (rear)
cj block, threading freeze plug holes. Threading the holes sounds easy, but there are two secrets you better know or you will destroy a tap and block all at the same time.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/album.php?albumid=31

LMH · #11 (**permalink**) 02-15-2009, 10:10 PM

Looks interesting.
Beautiful welds BTW!
Larry

barabar · #12 (**permalink**) 02-16-2009, 12:48 PM

Thanks for the compliment on the welds. All the welds that are protruding will be surfaced. (flat) All that are perfect I'll leave, because it is going to be power coated. If you want to thread your freeze plug holes let me know and I'll tell you how to do it right. It is very time consuming all the mods I'm doing, but they should be justified.
Saw your pictures, looks good. Keeping your build stock? It is very simple to turn that 3 link into a 4 link. If you need some info, let me know.

jwd · #13 (**permalink**) 02-16-2009, 02:33 PM

Larry is running a IRS. I have to ask, why would anyone want to downgrade from a 3 to a 4 link? The 3 link design is far superior.

LMH · #14 (**permalink**) 02-16-2009, 03:57 PM

Jims right, I have switched mine to IRS.
I think the four link is a better base for drag racing though I may be talking out of my a$$. Drag racing isn't my thing.
There is some axle set up that one of the local FFR guys has that's made to help it really hook up. Some kit he bought and installed on his four link.
Problem I see is it doesn't corner all that well to but to each his own.
Larry

barabar · #15 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 03:31 AM

Remember what I said---Trying to keep the best of both worlds. Jims right the 4 link is better for launch. I did leave the parallel bar but modified it. With the set up I built you can either have the 4 link lead or the 3 link lead, myself, I like Drag Racing.
What State are you guys in. I'm in California. Maybe in about a year (if I have the rocket finished.) we can get toge

ther.

fastraxsg · #16 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 03:46 AM

Mike, what number Hurricane do you have, did you buy new or second hand? We are kinda spread all over the USA and two in Mexico and one in Indonesia (mine). There are a couple of guys in California. Like most similar minded gear heads, the car doesn't have to be finished to get together and bench race. Get on the Hurricane site and see who is around...always good to have some one around who enjoys thinking out of the box...

57chevy · #17 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 05:16 AM

Getting back to the welds, it looks like you are a little cold on the setting or you are moving to fast. When the weld sits on top like yours you are not assured of good penetration. What you want is a very slight undercut at the edge of your weld. When you but your pieces together you need to grind the edge so you have a v to fill.
Try your style on scrap and put it in a press it will break.
Grind it proper with the heat right and it will bend.
You have good ideas on the braceing but if the welds arent proper they could fail. Not meaning to be negative but you ask for input.

LMH · #18 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barabar

Remember what I said---Trying to keep the best of both worlds. Jims right the 4 link is better for launch. I did leave the parallel bar but modified it. With the set up I built you can either have the 4 link lead or the 3 link lead, myself, I like Drag Racing.
What State are you guys in. I'm in California. Maybe in about a year (if I have the rocket finished.) we can get toge

ther.

I'm in AZ. We've all talked about a get together a number of times but it's never worked out yet.
At the rate I'm building, a year won't be long enough!

Maybe I can bring my finally finished rear end.
Larry

barabar · #19 (**permalink**) 02-24-2009, 11:32 AM

Modifying the Hurricane

barabar · #20 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57chevy

Getting back to the welds, it looks like you are a little cold on the setting or you are moving to fast. When the weld sits on top like yours you are not assured of good penetration. What you want is a very slight undercut at the edge of your weld. When you but your pieces together you need to grind the edge so you have a v to fill.
Try your style on scrap and put it in a press it will break.
Grind it proper with the heat right and it will bend.
You have good ideas on the braceing but if the welds arent proper they could fail. Not meaning to be negative but you ask for input.

57Chevy--weld, I've been arc welding for the last 50 years and mig welding for the last 40 years. (combined) not to mention all the fabricating I've done. Mig welding is very forgiving on thin metal, I would never leave a gap to weld with an arc, but a mig you can get away with it. Before you tell me the edge of the weld is to cold you have to understand what I'm runing. Argon 92/8 & .45 E70-6 The 92/8 runs hotter. Any weld that humps over on the surface is going to be surfaced, (filler) like the cross member in the picture. That is where you would see imperfections, if the welds were bad. Remember the frame isn't on a rotisserie so the welds are flat, verticle, horizonal & overhead, not to mention the position I'm in. To make an informative reply you have to know ALL the particulars. I only take it personal when a person like Ricky Bobby rings in here and doesn't know a tack weld from a bead.