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Ok ready to buy, whats the best?
Hi friends,
I am ready to buy a cobra. But whats the best kit out there? Looking for a 427, with a 427 sideoiler, 9 inch rear, 4 speed toploader, softtop with side curtians. Looking to spend 35-40K is that unreasonable. Whats you take on this?::3DSMILE: |
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That being said, there are always 1st posts like yours that should get you steered in the right direction with regards to what you can afford and where to look for it. Best of luck in your search. |
You mention "the best". Best at what? What do you want to do with the car? Drag race, Autocross, daily cruiser? You want more original in appearance?
There are tons of cars for $35-40k, you'll just have to sacrifice somethings (mainly the engine). Have you seen this site? There are plenty of Cobras for sale there. http://www.cobracountry.com/home2.html |
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I have a feeling you're very new to all of this. In the end you'll buy a 390 which you'll think is a 427SO. Bob |
Not if he hangs on Club Cobra and learns about what to look for! :D
A 427 is one thing, 428 are more common. A 427 SIDE OILER is the 'holy grail', difficult to identify and hard to find. Usually found only in the 'up-scale' replicas, such as Kirkham, ERA, etc. THESE cars generally sell for more than $40K. And why would you want a 9" rear? OK, maybe because it's stronger than a 8.8? A side oiler will generally come in a car more 'period correct' than the average replica and will almost certainly have Independant Rear Suspension (IRS). Which, in my opinion, is far better than a live axle, and certainly more correct. |
this car is a good buy in my opinion
http://cobracountry.com/cobra4salefo...ham-ga-BIG.jpg |
even a better buy
http://cobracountry.com/cobra4salefo...zaleski-nj.jpg |
I don't know about that X,.... I had Keith put together a brand new Side Oiler, (readily available), with enough HP/TQ to tear up an IRS, so the 9" seemed like a better choice, and all this was put in an "up-scale", "period correct", Hurricane replica. You are right about one thing though, $40K will not be enough! :3DSMILE:
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Well you can 'tear up' anything if you try hard enough! :D
DV tore up his 9" rear, twisted like a pretzel. Running low gears, slicks and launching at high rpm will do that. In general the Jag IRS (VERY similiar to what the vintage Cobras ran) is strong enoug to survive serious horse power. I was running over 600 with my side oiler and the IRS held up well. 11.9 at 121 mph with those sticky Goodyear Bill Board tires, still, traction was\is remains a serious problem. :LOL: |
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As for the 427 Sideoiler, as stated above, you need to set your budget a little higher as in this hobby and with all of the different kits out there you do get what you pay for. Bill S. |
No sweat!
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Chip |
Asking which is "best," is really subjective. What might be "best" for you may not be the "best" for someone else. It all depends on what you are looking for in the car and what you will be using it for. True, a 427 SO will set you back in the neighbourhood of $20K. For the budjet you have set out, you should be able to get into the market. Start off there, and see if you like these cars. They are not for everyone. To quote, "There is nothing nice about a Cobra. It's loud, smells like gasoline, and shakes, shudders, and bucks. It makes your arms tired and your feet hot. You nearly crash about once every 10 minutes!" After you get your feet "wet" or in the case of these cars, your first case of "snake bite", you could set your sights a little higher and go for that dream car. Good luck! Welcome to the brotherhood. Wear your "snake bite" as a badge of honor! LOL!
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For 35 to 40K ... and you want a 427 ... go for a used car. Would be very tough to build that from scratch.
Good luck. |
427fe side oiler!
This original 66' 427fe side oiler cost $26,000, installed, this summer! :eek:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...aOct06_008.jpg A new Shelby CSX4000 roller will run $60,000-$90,000+, depending on the type of body. You do the math. Ugh, you did ask for the best!;) jdog P.S. Check my photo gallery for some more pic's. Good luck, you seem to have pretty high standards!:) |
The best buy is Gunrack, BDR #139.
A vehicle with a... colourful... history and less than 5K miles since delivery in Aug. 2004. 351W, 315+RWHP, Tremec TKO 500, assembled and installed by KCMS in Plano, TX. 17" Boyd Smoothies w/sticky Nittos, mostly de-bugged, but I can't get parts here for other small repairs! (Rural Oklahoma) Price a new BackDraft roller, add abt. 10%, then PM me. Drive her while you hunt down that side-oiler. I gotta sell this car, winter's coming on, we're moving to a smaller home, my back and knee are shot, driving and even riding are... painful. Oh! She has a heater, no top. What a cruel joke. She has a few loose screws, but so do I. UT |
I do love the www.hurricane-motorsports.com cobra's. They are period correct and have many features that are options on other cars. I will probably end up at around 45k for mine when it is all done, But I am trying to do it right. Just can't afford the SO lol
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For what's it worth, Hurricane has suspension towers similar to original.
Larry http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...irewall_11.jpg |
For me 'period correct' has more to do with you what you can readily see. All though, I really appreciate a truly well done and authentic down to the last bolt replica!
But the BIG concerns, for me, are: Body shape, wheels, dash layout\gauges, gear shifter, seats, interior in general, steering wheel and engine. The car needs to 'look right' first and foremost. As for the myriad of other details it comes down to personal feelings. There are some things I just cannot accept on MY replica but I'd be fine with it on YOUR replica. I LIKE running a flat tappet cam, not that anyone can SEE it, but I know it's in there and thats important to me! :LOL: I certainly prefer a round tube 'correct' frame, but I wouldn't sacrafice the correct look of the body just to get one. And SOME have! Solution? Kirkham or CSX come to mind... :D In the end it is good to strive for as much original detail as possible and be happy with as close as you can get within your budget. |
In my weird nature the vette LS7, 427 CDI, 505 HP, 495 FPT, Dry sump and 28 MPG with a C6 vette all duel A arm, all aluminum, suspension and transaxle 6 speed T56 and get the best of all three worlds (drooling). But like everybody else is saying big blocks are not cheep in any business, especially the legendry Ford 427. If you are going for a good handling car, or a daily driver go for a small block, keep the weight down but 0-60 will still scare the crap out of you. Show car - drag car, you’ll need that big block more to impress both crowds.
That just my opinion aluminum good |
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