About to start brake upgrade project

mickmate · #1 (**permalink**) 10-15-2007, 08:33 PM

http://www.toolsource.com/tubing-ben...l-p-71133.html Hey Jeff, I'm on it......

rdorman · #2 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 06:34 AM

I hope you have really done your homework. This sort of thing scares me. You can't just change to 'better' parts and expect better results. In fact, just the opposite can occur. Have we talked?

767Jockey · #3 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdorman

I hope you have really done your homework. This sort of thing scares me. You can't just change to 'better' parts and expect better results. In fact, just the opposite can occur. Have we talked?

This is a very commonly done upgrade to CCX cars. Why are you scared? Why would we need to talk? Have you done this upgrade before?

rdorman · #4 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 06:55 AM

If what you are telling me is that this exact change has been done before and properly designed and tested, then I will sleep easier!

767Jockey · #5 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdorman

If what you are telling me is that this exact change has been done before and properly designed and tested, then I will sleep easier!

That's exactly what I'm telling you. Sleep well!

rdorman · #6 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 08:01 AM

Phew! In that case....... seemless steel lines are fine. The precut, pre flaired lines work well and save time. Any good tubing bender works well. Spend a few bucks here or borrow a good one. Assuming the brake system is naturally balanced, pic a high CF pad intended for your use. EBC makes some nice pads for the rear (I run them) and the red pad is a decent compromise. From there, pick some similar CF wilwood pads. They have some new ones out that I have yet to research but Wilwood does a good job in giving a lot of details on their pads. The big stores such as Summit and Jegs are hard to beat price wise but there is always something to say for buying from the local bricks and mortar stores. Tech support will be from wilwood any ways. If you are prepared to give me your entire specs and some other info, I can make more specific pad recomendations. Either way, bed them well and spend time getting the bias just right.

767Jockey · #7 (**permalink**) 10-16-2007, 08:38 AM

This project was developed by the Jaguar Club of North America. Here's the link.....

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0021.html

I've talked to Wilwood about it extensively as well. In addition to the info in the article, I'm also having a floor mounted pedal assembly custom made by Mickmate with two separate brake masters and a balance bar. Masters will be sized by the techs at Wilwood. Rear calipers will have hard metal lines plumbed right into the calipers, the old rubber brake hoses in the front will be replaced by new steel braided lines. All mounting hardware will be replaced with new Grade 8 hardware. Wilwood doesn't make the PolyMatrix D pads specified in the article anymore - the Wilwood tech specified the replacement for them, part # WIL150-8850K, which is their BP-10 compound. The remaining question I need to get answered is what pads to run in the rears - I have inboard Jag Series II calipers and brake system. I called Unique Motorcars and they said that Jag Series II is what they run in the rear of their cars as well, so I presume that's what you have as I see you have a Unique. They said the Series II is actually not a bad system and they are satisfied with the performance they get from the equipment back there. What pads do you run in the rear, do you have part number and place to buy? I asked Wilwood about what to run in the back and they're about totally clueless on anything having to do with Jaguar. I figure I'll get the rear pad compound as close to the new front pads as I can, and then make up whatever small differences I may have with the balance bar. The end result has got to be light years ahead of what I have now, which is a single tandem master with archaic Series I Jag single piston Dunlop calipers in the front, which have an even smaller pad surface area than the Series II's in the rear. The Series I calipers are cast iron with aluminum bolt in cylinders and pistons. They weigh (not even joking here) almost 10 pounds each! Jeff G., who is about to do this swap as well, found an article about this very swap but in a Jag XKE, which of course is heavier and with much less tire than the Cobra's we drive. The 60 - zero braking distance went from somewhere near 200 feet to almost 100 feet. The results were astounding. At least in the Unique you have a better front braking system to begin with. There very early CCX cars are dealing with 1962 technology in the front. This should bring the technology at least into the 80's.

I've researched this as carefully as I can, and sought out as much qualified advice as I can find. All in all it seems like a no brainer, all at a completed cost of about $500.00. Any additional input ANYONE may have is appreciated.
Doug