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Old 09-26-2011, 07:49 PM
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Location: San Jose CA, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF_R_/BRG/FRBoss302/327CI/FordEFI/Under_Car_Exh/
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Default Brock Coupe - Radiator Upgrade

Greetings my coupe friends - as I have been working on my coupe (#54) there have things that I wanted to upgrade along the way and one is cooling.

This is an upgrade that has several different points and decisions to make.

We have completed the upgrade on 2 Daytonas and in any flavor or portion it is a great capability improvement in cooling and operational potential.

First , the moving parts ;

-- Radiator; The stock Daytona Radiator as received in the gen 1's seems to be the same mounting shape and size across the board with small modifications, including a drain-plug on the lower left hand side in later Gen 1 cars.

The radiator is aluminum with a single row of 1" aluminum tubes across the matrix.

It has 2 x 10mm solid studs welded at the bottom for locating itself in the chassis framework , and a 6mm threaded hole in the top , with a boss for aligning the "Tab" with the radiator frame.

-The unit is nestled in a "picture-frame" of sorts with grommet lined sockets for the lower studs at the bottom, and the tab at the top. The stock radiator also supports / provides - an oil cooler in the left hand side-tank. (Note: this in-rad cooler has been omitted from the CSX9000 cars, and a external oil cooler has been fitted)

In a conventional - as configured, Gen 1 -Daytona , the water pickup (lower hose ) is on the bottom left hand side, with the hot "thermostat" side (upper ) residing on the top right hand side, much like a 1970 351W application.

Upon examination it seems that the Daytona lower and upper inlet and outlet are both made of 1.5" tube as opposed to vintage Fords which were 1.75" lower tube, and 1.5" upper, allowing a little easier time flowing the inbound cooled water to come into the motor under vacuum / suction from the water pump. I know .250" is not much but when you are stuck in traffic, every little bit helps.

I contacted a radiator manufacturer we work with, and physically sent them my daytona radiator with notes and instructions, measurements written on it in red pentel sharpie, - after a few design conversations we came up with what I believe is just about the final word in Daytona radiators.

Design Notes;

A> DOUBLE MATRIX ; Cooling matrix (Cores) increased from 1 row of 1" tubes to 2 rows of 1" tubes , overall thickness increased .280" biased towards the back of the unit, required a 3/8" trim of the lower border of the shroud for the fans.

B> FAN SWITCH MOVED : M22 Threaded Fan temp port relocated to underneath the top "Hot" tube speeding reaction time of fans to high temperature conditions.

C> LARGER TUBE: lower outlet for the windsor style radiator upgraded to 1.75" lower tube size.

D> DUAL PASS DESIGN All models ; Lower tube moved to right hand side. Radiator is now of "Dual-Pass" design allowing coolant to flow twice basically allowing fans and air more time to cool the water.

F> Oil cooler is omitted from design. External Oil cooler will need to be fitted.
G> breather tube in top left hand side is maintained
H> all other original Daytona mounting provisions are intact.

I am happy to say that it came out exactly as prescribed and we have a awesome solution for LS powered cars as well.

as soon as we have details , both radiators will be available. Pictures to follow.
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Steve SPF 2734 MK3 / Brock Coupe #54- panavia.com
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