Engine Choice for SPF Coupe

CoupedUp · #1 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 10:56 AM

I have a SPF Coupe on order and am currently planning to go the "standard" route with a Roush 402. I never really looked at what else might be out there. I am limited to a 351W based engine due to header alignment, etc. I am looking for something that is very streetable with at least the same HP/Torque ratings as the Roush 402 (515/500). I am not a good wrench guy - I will be learning as I go with help from my much more experienced father-in-law. I still have at least a few weeks to make a final decision. Suggestions/opinions/comments???

Thanks,
Doug

xlr8or · #2 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 04:04 PM

There are many options out there for the 351 strokers. Your streetability desire is going to be a function of camshaft and porting. You don't want a peaky motor for that so a slight change may make a big difference to you. I would suggest you talk to some of the engine builders that sponsor this sight for some suggestions and things to look for to make sure it will be what you want. Try Gessford Machine and Keith Craft. You may be better off having them build it to your specs instead of a generic crate motor built the way they want it.

Woodz428 · #3 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 04:55 PM

You are limited to 351W based engines for several reasons. This would include headers, but also frame design. I had played with the idea of a 289 (like the original), but after checking things out it would have been a fabrication exercise notworth the return. The hood height also limits what can be put under the hood. As mentioned, there are several 351W derivatives that could fill your needs, but I think Roush has a year warranty.Not much, but long enough for any flaws to appear.

CoupedUp · #4 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 07:13 PM

Woodz428,
Is SPC 0037 yours? If so, would you mind telling me what you did for your engine?

Thanks,
Doug

Woodz428 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 08:05 PM

I built 037 as a GT car and installed a Ford racing 351W/360 HP.I tweaked bracketry and a few other things to lessen problems down the road but haven't done anything special to the engine. I haven't even had the carb set up completely (it runs great, but I can tell it could use a little trimming), but will when I get the new sidepipes. I didn't even want the hassle of periodic valve adjustments, so it is hydraulic roller cammed.

Eugene Presley · #6 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 01:31 PM

Just to be clear : will a SPF Coupe ONLY accomodate 351-motors? Which tremec transmission is the best one for this stroker?

CoupedUp · #7 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 04:01 PM

The Brock Coupe is designed around the 351 Windsor. You might be able to get something else to fit, but it would probably cost quite a bit in time and money. As far as transmissions go, I believe most people are using the T56. I went for the T600. Main reasons are that the early T56 transmissions were a bit balky (but could be significantly improved if blueprinted - call Rockland Standard Gear in NY) and weighs 25 lbs more. Also, couldn't really see a need in "normal" (under 200 MPH) driving for the .5 OD in the T56. I got my TKO from RSG and had them do the blueprinting to make it extra smooth, bulletproof and run a bit cooler.

Best of luck!
Doug

Goopie 18 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 04:14 PM

Why not a Roush 427R/ 550 HP 535 torque 2 yr warranty. That's the engine I'm putting in my SPF. Very streetable on pump gas and crazy fast.

Woodz428 · #9 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 06:02 PM

This is an older thread that has re-surfaced. Since it originally surfaced, the list of the Coupes and powertrains was printed and there is a Coupe down under that is listed as having a 302. If headers are available for the 302, or whether he used the ones from the 351W with mods is unknown. I've tried to contact him, but haven't located him yet. I considered building a 289, for the obvious, but it appeared that the head would interfere with the upper frame rail.

rcweingart · #10 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 05:35 PM

Actually Roush's warranty is two years or 24,000 miles - not that many people will drive their coupe that far in two years. I have the Roush 427IR (Digital Fuel Injection) with an aluminum block and it is sweet. Plenty of power (580 HP) and torque (542 ft.lbs.) and smooth at low RPM. I had occasion to test Roush's warranty and they were terrific! In the end they sent the man who actually built my engine to my home in LA to take care of the problem. Not that this is typical but it does show Roush's committment.

DavidNJ · #11 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcweingart

In the end they sent the man who actually built my engine to my home in LA to take care of the problem. Not that this is typical but it does show Roush's committment.

Talk about warranty costs!!! How often do they do that???!!!

The 427IR, or actually any displacement IR, is a very nice complement to this car,

rcweingart · #12 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 07:01 AM

You'd have to ask Roush but, again, it does show their committment to their product. My engine was shipped with the wrong harmonic balancer and water pump for the coupe (it was for the roadster). The new slightly larger diameter balancer needed the ID to be machined to fit the nose of the crank (slight interference fit) and the water pump had to be relieved to accept the larger diameter balancer. Rather than ship me the parts and have me labor to install them, Roush sent out my engine builder who did the install. Again, not typical but it does show their committment.

And, you're right about any IR being a nice compliment to the car, especially an all aluminum 427!!! Aside from the sweet power curve, smooth low end, and lots of grunt, it is stunning to look at especially without the external filters. I use 100 micron strainer screens between the velocity stacks and throttle bodies so as not to spoil the open velocity stack eye candy - hence my license plate, "8 STACK."

DavidNJ · #13 (**permalink**) 05-02-2006, 04:59 AM

A modern engine really needs an air filter.

rcweingart · #14 (**permalink**) 05-02-2006, 05:51 AM

Yes, but a 100 micron strainer screen element is a suitable air cleaner for everyday driving.

Roush liked my idea so much that they are manufacturing stainless steel velocity stack screens identical to mine except that I use brass. Stainless is stronger but if a fiber gets loose, the engine is eating a piece of hard stainless. Brass on the other hand is soft and if a fiber gets loose, the engine is only eating soft brass.

I also have the push on K&N air cleaners but they don't look all that good. I also fabricated a cold air box that the bare velocity stacks just fit inside of whereas the stacks with the K&N's on them won't. The ducting to the cold air box is protected and screened providing preliminary filtering as well. There was a bit of debris in my filter screens before I fabricated the cold air box. However, there has been none since I installed the cold air box and I figure that the engine had been sucking dirty air from underneath the hood including air that got sucked up from underneath the car. Now the air supply is coming from the air inlet inside the radiator grill opening and I am not sucking in all that underneath the hood debris.

Trade offs, form versus function. The 100 micron screens work well enough in a non adverse environment so I avoid adverse situations such as a dust storm or off track experiences. If I find myself in such a situation, the cold air box comes off and the K&N's go on - but not for everyday driving.

rjbh20 · #15 (**permalink**) 05-04-2006, 10:05 AM

Very nice looking engine (rest of the car's nice too!)

Did you keep the stock exhaust?

rcweingart · #16 (**permalink**) 05-04-2006, 10:56 AM

I kept the stock exhausts - for now - but installed the tips a little differently than the factory. I didn't use the large stainless bezels and didn't have the tips protrude below the lower body. I used stainless hose clamps to hold the tips up in place instead of the rubber donuts and pulled the tips up so they were flush with the body instead of protruding. I carefully cut the openings so they are only 1/4" larger than the projection of the tips and didn't use the stainless surrounds so, when you look underneath, all you see are two minimal oval holes, no projecting tips and no large stainless surrounds. Much cleaner looking.

That said and done, I've ordered the factory open side pipes and will install them as soon as they arrive. Peter Brock's car has custom stainless open side pipes with a single muffler. Very attractive but not representative of the original cars - but, if anyone can deviate, it is Peter. Back to Peter's exhaust, it is loud but not too excessive. The Sebring tribute car has the factory open side pipes and Lance Stander reports that they are quieter than Peter's and, from what I heard on TV watching the BJ, they sounded really good.

Using the open side pipes removes the "S" and "H" pipes with all their weight and heat so I can use the air ducts to cool the rear brakes instead of the exhaust and I can cover up the open space with a belly pan, as did Peter, for better aerodynamics.