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Parking Brake Adjustment on Outboard Braked Rear
Bob, I know the ERA rear uses 4th Gen F-body PBR calipers. The GM service manual for the 1995 Firebird and Camaro says "This vehicle is equipped with a self-adjusting parking brake lever assembly. This mechanism automatically takes up any slack in the cable assemblies and provides the correct amount of tension in the cable assemblies when the system is engaged. The parking brake cable assemblies cannot be manually adjusted." The manual also has a procedure for adjusting the parking brake "free travel" which is copied below. Unless you know the answer off the top of your head, will you ask Doug whether the ERA parking brake assembly for the outboard braked rear is self-adjusting? And if it's not, what's the recommended procedure for adjusting it?
http://www.shbox.com/1/adjparkingbrake.jpg |
TTT - :confused:
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Hmmm... What happened to my reply yesterday. Maybe I was hallucinating. (I had just got back from being knocked out for an esophageal endoscopy. They told me I shouldn't make any important decisions. Who knew? :eek: )
At any rate, your diagram is more than I've been able to find so far, so thanks! We've only had to replace the rear pads once and didn't have to adjust the emergency brake at that time. Some time ago, I looked around for pad-replacement instructions but didn't find much. I'll keep looking and maybe there'll be more hints. |
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ar_pad_job.jpg |
Pat,
As far as I can tell, the self-adjustment mechanism is built into the caliper, not part of the cable linkage. |
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Here's some more information on the calipers:
GM Caliper Service |
Boy what a grump Pat
patrickt OFF THE MEDS AGAIN!@#$$%%$#$#@# Rear disc Brakes and calipers, GM has 3 kind, 2 with internal adjusting parking park units and 1 with seperate mechanical in the hat of the rear rotor.
The first 2 calipers need to have the cups rotated all the way in to reset them WITHOUT breaking the park accuator inside the cup. Using a "C" clamp will break it every time. The 3rd one works like a front caliper with just compressing it with a spreader or "C" clamp. I use a spreader because if this doesn't do the job there is something wrong with the caliper or brake system. You should not need 300 pound of force to retrack the cup. To set parking brake after repair. Pump the pedal until you feel a good one, then apply the parking brake 3-4 times and release should go about 1/2 way down and hold. Side note some of the older calipers on late 70's cars through the 80's you have to adjust the parking brake first to set the pad clearance, then pump the brake pedal. After this was a pressure bleed of the system. Early ABS systems where a bit!@#$$ch to get working. Last thing do about 5-10 heat cycles, stop and let brakes cool off to breakin the pads and rotors. If not they can glaze and you get poor braking. That's it Pat, can I go now????:confused::(. Get back on your meds and stop HUFFING 134A and 22. :eek:;):rolleyes::p:):D:LOL::LOL::LOL: Rick |
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Here's some more relevant information that describes Rick's post:
Replace Pads |
So we are all in agreement that these calipers are not those funky calipers that require the piston to be "rotated back" in to the caliper. You can just squash it back in with a C-clamp like we've done forever and like all the above documention indicates and no special tool is required, correctamundo?
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my GM 86 Corvette rear brakes are cable adjusted to remove slack,adjuster is at handbrake and is linked too cable
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I believe the '84-'88 Corvette used a separate drum-style emergency brake with a classic star wheel adjustment. If they had an adjustment up front, it was to compensate for cable stretch or compensate for variations in cable length.
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Well, some ERA owners think they can leap tall buildings too. Attracting bronze with a magnet goes with the territory.
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