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Well that answers that. BTW, my #2 spark plug boot does just barely touch my expansion tank.
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Okay, I think I found the problem. Take a look at this photo:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=1944&thumb=1 Notice the difference in the angle of the plate and the mounting ring? if the ring was flush with the plate it would be at an angle where the tank would not interfere with the distributor. Here is a close-up view: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=1943&thumb=1 Can the tub be bent so that the ring angle will align with the plate, or would that damage something? Just looks like a sloppy job putting the thing together. I really wish people would take more pride in their workmanship. |
Try again on the pictures.....;)
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im watching this thinking....darn there goes another way to save a few $$$$.....easier to write the check to Peter!
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EDIT: the gallery wasn't marked public... changed it, so should see pics now. |
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just send it back overnight!....they will fix you up !
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Haha, yeah assuming he doesn't read posts in this forum... The shipper damaged my ceramic coated exhaust, so I guess what's one more part :LOL: Seriously though, how do you think I could apply enough force in the right location to bend the tube without cracking the solder at the mouting ring or the base of the tank? How would I even know if there was a minor crack that could get worse? |
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Now if I were bending it, I'd heat it up first. I wouldn't use a torch, instead I'd put the part I'm bending in a pot of boiling water for a while. I'd stilll end up braking it probably 60% of the time.%/ Just ship it on back to Bob if you do.
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I revamped the forward pitch on the mine when I 180'd the outlet around to the drivers side. Take another look at the picture posted earlier and note the slight forward angle of the tank toward the nose of the car. You can uniformly heat one of the solder joints softening it enough to get the tank to shift a few degrees forward.
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I spent 10 years working a radiator shop and i probably repaired a thousand of those tanks, theres a reason Ford only used them for a short period of time(there not worth what they cost ) send it back and have them replace it or repair it, the bracket that runs up the back side from the tstat housing should be attached to the flange the tstat sets in and should be 90 degrees to that bracket and the tank should be about an inch out away from the intake manifold.I dont know why those dumba$$ tanks are so popular i would toss it and install an inline filler neck and not have any problems that they have and it would be a heck of a lot cheaper(450 bucks ???).....somebodys getting bent over just have that look of originality.........
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If you're not going to try to approach originality, there's no reason to even start with the general limitations of a Cobra. I am truly puzzled by those who build "a Cobra" that has so many alternate parts, design differences and compromises that only its shadow resembles the originals. If you want a completely different car, then build THAT car.
YMMV, IMHO, etc. |
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the funny thing is i could buy the kit for 25 bucks and spend 20 minutes putting it together and could charge less than what it costs to take one appart and clean every thing and put it back together and they would end up with a new tank not some used pos......
If you want "originality" then buy an original........a fake is just that a fake. |
It is my understanding that the ERA tanks are new tanks manufactured specifically for them. Of course, I could be wrong.
The vast majority of posts I've read said to go with the ERA supplied tank and not mess with anything else. Seems there is no perfect answer... |
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