Remote Oil Filter fittings

Gunner · #1 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 08:14 AM

I'm looking over my remote filter and cooler plumbing with an eye towards getting that Canton thermostat in the loop. A quick question, which would be easy to answer with a wrench but I hate to pull non-leaking plumbing apart just to look at it...

Are the ports in the remote oil mount and filter converter all 1/2 NPT?

This is the repro remote filter setup as supplied by ERA with 707's build.

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 08:40 AM

Yes. Both the ports are 1/2NPT.

Gunner · #3 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 08:43 AM

Thanks, Bob. Now I can order all my new fittings without pulling the darn loop apart...

WarrenG · #4 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 02:41 PM

You just reminded me that it's time again to get out that $0.01 piece of cardboard and block the oil cooler!

Pete Munroe · #5 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 10:04 PM

Gunner,

The Canton thermostat upper/lower housing can be disassembled and the oil cooler ports on the side of the housing rotated in 90 degree increments to each other.

On my car, I have the side ports ( in/out to the oil cooler ) 180 degrees to each other. Much easier to route oil cooler "in/out" lines and avoid 90 degree hose fittings. Got away with a straight-in, 180 degree fitting on one side and a 30 degree fitting on the other.

Goal was to avoid as many sharp turns (like 90's) as possible routing any of the oil lines.

Removing the radiator was necessary, and well worth the time, for this installation.

I have a few photos at my "gallery" that show how rotating the housing sections helped on my 289 FIA car.

Have fun.

Pete

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunner

I'm looking over my remote filter and cooler plumbing with an eye towards getting that Canton thermostat in the loop. A quick question, which would be easy to answer with a wrench but I hate to pull non-leaking plumbing apart just to look at it...

Are the ports in the remote oil mount and filter converter all 1/2 NPT?

This is the repro remote filter setup as supplied by ERA with 707's build.

RICK LAKE · #6 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 03:31 AM

Gunner get the high flow fittings. I believe that they come with the ERA setup for the oil filter and cooler assembly. It's been a long time since it was install in the car. Every couplers reduces flow a little and pressure. Rick L.

Cobra 29 · #7 (**permalink**) 12-05-2009, 06:01 PM

I have existing oil lines to / from a oil cooler too without a themostat. I need to install a themostat or disconnect the oil cooler to build greater oil temp. Blocking the oil cooler helps build heat but you still have the drag / pumping losses of all the oil lines and cooler.

For a car with existing lines and a cooler, it seems easier to use the Mocal sandwich adapter that contains a oil themostat. This avoids another mount to the frame and more oil line connections. Maybe this adapter and shorty oil filter will not fit between your frame and original oil filter mount on the block??

SuperHart uses one and he reports it works fine. Any other experences with this adapter?

Gunner · #8 (**permalink**) 12-05-2009, 07:06 PM

Thanks for all the input. We went through the debate about which cooler and why (and how) a while back - I'm just getting to the actual install now that winter doldrums are on us. The Canton is the most flexible and the only one that operates at 215* - 180* does not seem to be enough to maintain oil temps under low-temp conditions.

I have my $0.01 piece of cardboard in place. It raises the temp from around 50* to 60* after a freeway run. Not enough, and I don't want to remove the cooler altogether because summer temps here can hit 110*.

I'm using high-flow tubular fittings throughout. I can't avoid a couple of 90s but one of them (the hardline fitting between the filter bracket and the Canton) is an oversized AN12. Being able to clock the body parts of the Canton was a major point in its favor. Mild engine, AN10 plumbing, Melling pump - I am not too worried about oil flow restriction, as getting the oil up to temp and holding it there will be more to the good than less restriction with always-cold oil. I'm also going to 5W-30 on the next change, down from 10W-40.

PANAVIA · #9 (**permalink**) 12-05-2009, 07:11 PM

So how hot - or cold is your oil getting on a drive this time of year >?

Gunner · #10 (**permalink**) 12-05-2009, 09:41 PM

I didn't get 707 until mid-October, when air temps were no more than 80 or so. It's now typically in the 40s in the morning, mid-60s at peak. I've never seen any temp higher than 70*, even after I blocked the cooler and after driving for 20-30 minutes at freeway speeds. Overcooled to da max... I probably could live without the cooler but I just can't bring myself to take it out. I suspect it will prove its usefulness in Central Valley summers.

RICK LAKE · #11 (**permalink**) 12-06-2009, 05:47 AM

Gunner If you don't want to use the cooler in the cold weather, change the oil filter housing and cap the lines. I don't think there ar alot of SCJ housing around but the standard ones will work fine with a fram ph 400 filter. 4 bolts, 1 gasket and filter, about 10 minute swap. Cap off the lines and put the adaptor in the tool box. Rick L. Ps I use this in the beginning before going to the setup I now have. Oil temp is important but You might be getting a little crazy with. If your sensor is in the oil pan,it may not be geeting the correct reading. There is a ton of air blowing around in there because of the crank. This is going to remove some of the heat in the oil too. Buy a good infrared temp gun and see what you have at other locations. Even racing the temp on my gauge hits about 170. Motor is running at 180-185f coolant. My gauge sensor is in the oil pan, canton. I have about 13-14 quarts of oil between pan, lines, cooler, 3 quart accusump. I don't know if the accusump emptys out all the oil when racing. It's hot when I check it. I also run 75-85 psi in the motor. You should only be needing the 60+ when runniing and 30 at idle for a safe setup. IMO. Gunner I run a 15-40W Rottella in the car a bottle of lucas oil suppliment and bottle of EOS. I use the accusump to pre lube the motor before startup, get about 30 psi. Start the motor and let it run at 1,100 rpms for about 2 minutes until the oil gauge is not pinned. I get about 130 psi on start up with 100# spring. It takes about 3-4 minutes to get all numbers in the right area before running the car. oil pressure idle is 30-35 and goes to 80+ at 2,000 rpms. coolant in the 175-180 area and steady. I have run this block with 2 different bottom end kits, 452 one for 7 years and now the 482 for 3 years+. I wanted more torque

This is an aluminium block also which does need to be treated a little different than Iron block, again IMO. Who's oil are you using?? The other thing is going to a 10W-30. 5W-30 is like water and may be too thin to run in your block. This depends on the clearances of the rod and crank bearings and the lifter bores. Does your motor have limiters for the rocker shafts? Also alot of oil may be going into the heads to cool the valve springs. Anyway more info to think about. You can change the adapter real easy like I said in maybe 1/2 hour taking your time and basic tools, just need an tray to catch the oil.

Rick L.