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-   ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/)
-   -   Progress on #782 (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/102895-progress-782-a.html)

patrickt 11-24-2013 07:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevins2 (Post 1273283)
Yes, that's the location. Also seeping a bit over toward the driver's side as well but not as much. Engine builder had me put my shop vac on one of the breather holes to create a vacuum in the engine and block off the other one. Cleaned up the oil with carb cleaner and tried it. Still leaks so will try it again. I'm using "Right Stuff" gasket maker. I think that's pretty much what the RTV is. Let me know if there's a difference and I'll try it.

Dan, sorry, I seem to have hijacked your thread...

Kevin
I know you think it's leaking oil, but it's really "misting oil." There's a difference. The Right Stuff is a great product. But for a little teensy weensy hairline or super small pin-hole back there you want something that will seep in to the gap and that you can "squish" in to the crevice with your finger. Give Ultra-Grey a try. You've got nothing to lose. And make sure it's not coming out from the valve cover gaskets and trailing back there and fooling you. Take a white dinner napkin and run it along the bottom of the valve covers, especially the back of the passenger side. If you see any oil stain from doing that then you have to deal with that first. What looks to be a small leak, using the dinner napkin test, can often times be the majority of the problem.

DanEC 11-24-2013 08:31 PM
Kevin - sorry about the differential. That definately tops my exhaust system problems. I hope you have some heat in the garage to work on that. I guess we need to expect a few teething problems in getting these cars up and running.

Dan

kevins2 11-24-2013 09:56 PM
Hi Dan,

Thanks, yeah this was starting to seem too easy. And, yes, I have a heater.

And, Patrick, thanks - I'll try that. Will have to scrape or cut the right stuff out of the way first. It is more than just a small leak, it is enough to run down the front of the bell housing plate and look like a rear main seal leak.

Kevin

DanEC 11-25-2013 06:55 AM
If Keith Craft's shop is any indicator, there seems to be some argument in favor of being able to prevent some oil leaks by sealing the exterior of the gasket after assembly. On my motor they went completely around the oil pan (maybe other locations too - didn't notice) and applied a small ribbon of black RTV over the edge of the gasket. I would guess they had more in mind than just cosmetics. I would not have figured trying to stop a leak from the exterior would be successful but maybe so. :confused:

ERA Chas 11-25-2013 08:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1273343)
If Keith Craft's shop is any indicator, there seems to be some argument in favor of being able to prevent some oil leaks by sealing the exterior of the gasket after assembly. On my motor they went completely around the oil pan (maybe other locations too - didn't notice) and applied a small ribbon of black RTV over the edge of the gasket.
You will regret that if / when you have to do lower maintenance or repair and remove the pan. It's a B!tch to cut through the outer RTV AND the RTV on the gasket surfaces. Keith probably does not want an engine to come back as a leaker and because they don't have to do pan removal like an owner might.
I've had my pan down 4 times over the years and have nearly perfected the art... :mad:

DanEC 11-25-2013 05:05 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas (Post 1273348)
You will regret that if / when you have to do lower maintenance or repair and remove the pan. It's a B!tch to cut through the outer RTV AND the RTV on the gasket surfaces. Keith probably does not want an engine to come back as a leaker and because they don't have to do pan removal like an owner might. I've had my pan down 4 times over the years and have nearly perfected the art... :mad:
Yeah, I guess it would add a lot of effort to separate them. That small, neat, untooled bead sure looks purty for now though. And so far no identifiable leaks although idling in the driveway is not much of a test. %/

ERA Chas 11-25-2013 05:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1273393)
Yeah, I guess it would add a lot of effort to separate them. That small, neat, untooled bead sure looks purty for now though. And so far no identifiable leaks although idling in the driveway is not much of a test. %/
A cool down after a 5500 RPM run will tell you if it's gonna stay dry. Most likely it will not leak, which is why Keith does that without a lot of other tedious work to ensure a tight seal with these types of pan rails.
You should re-snug the pan bolts after 100 miles or so; they will have backed-off a bit. Just don't crank on them.

DanEC 11-25-2013 09:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas (Post 1273398)
A cool down after a 5500 RPM run will tell you if it's gonna stay dry. Most likely it will not leak, which is why Keith does that without a lot of other tedious work to ensure a tight seal with these types of pan rails.
You should re-snug the pan bolts after 100 miles or so; they will have backed-off a bit. Just don't crank on them.
I'm expecting to see a drip from the rear main at some point. Keith said he tries his best and pays extra attention to the rear seal but some of them still want to drip a little.

DanEC 11-27-2013 10:21 AM
Too cold to do much but I checked the fit of the side curtains and put some weatherstripping on the bottom. I test fit them and adjusted the ferrules during the body work so they slid into position fine.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps42791e04.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps80d39a7c.jpg

Trying to seal these to the top of the doors is kind of convoluted. I don't think it matters much.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps31777e4c.jpg

ERA provided a nifty bag to store them in (for a little extra $)

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps1646e637.jpg

Fits in the trunk (barely).

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc321696e.jpg

They originally went behind the seats but that must have been just the side curtains themselves and no bag or anything.

I guess the next item is the windshield - I need to see if the cowl needs a final pass with the buffer first.

lippy 11-27-2013 10:31 AM
Dan, that looks really great. I didn't realize the windows were lexan/weatherproof. I thought they were soft.

kevins2 11-27-2013 10:40 AM
Hi Dan,

Looking good. I have the ERA side curtains/bag also but haven't tried fitting them. Good idea to add weatherstripping to the bottom - to help protect the paint if not for actual weather proofing. I have the trunk mounted battery and compartment, so you just inspired me to get mine out of the closet and see how it fits in the trunk.

Do you plan to carpet your trunk?

Kevin

DanEC 11-27-2013 10:46 AM
Lippy, ERA describes them as clear acrylic so I think they are high grade plexiglass. They look very optically clear.

Jim Holden 11-27-2013 10:51 AM
Make sure you have the side curtains on when you fit the windshield. The angle of the windshield must match that of the leading side of the sidecurtains.

Jim

DanEC 11-27-2013 10:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevins2 (Post 1273700)
Hi Dan,

Looking good. I have the ERA side curtains/bag also but haven't tried fitting them. Good idea to add weatherstripping to the bottom - to help protect the paint if not for actual weather proofing. I have the trunk mounted battery and compartment, so you just inspired me to get mine out of the closet and see how it fits in the trunk.

Do you plan to carpet your trunk?

Kevin
Kevin - yes, I have the trunk carpet kit but I've been putting it off until later.

The top of the door surface is anything but flat, especially at the front where it wraps into the cowl. That appears to be the only place the bottom of the side curtains actually hits the body - on the inside of the bottom plate. You can see a short piece of 1/8 inch weatherstripping I applied there for some extra protection. In the middle of the doors there is probably a good 3/8 inch gap - maybe slightly more. And then it narrows towards the back of the door and rear ferrule. I ended up using pieces of 3/8, 1/4 and 1/8 inch self-adhesive weatherstipping. I might look around and see if I can find some 3/8 to 1/2 inch soft bulb weatherstripping that may work better.

Dan

DanEC 11-27-2013 11:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Holden (Post 1273702)
Make sure you have the side curtains on when you fit the windshield. The angle of the windshield must match that of the leading side of the sidecurtains.

Jim
Thanks Jim,

I had that in mind. I think the windshield is my next step. Probably save the soft top for a little later on (like the trunk carpeting).

Dan

DanEC 11-27-2013 12:50 PM
Something like this might work as a better seal for the bottom of the side curtains

McMaster-Carr

or maybe this

McMaster-Carr

I would be curious as to what others have used for a seal.

DanEC 12-01-2013 04:15 PM
I finished buffing the car out today (well at least 98%) and put a couple coats of wax on it. It's not 100% perfect - couple sand scratches still not buffed out, a half dozen pin point pits here and there, a couple small areas in corners or on edges I didn't get all the orange peel completely sanded out - but all in all it looks pretty good.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscda58d49.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps88f66766.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps40fc2fb6.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps87abf3d2.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psb03fbbe5.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps17a92a63.jpg

Also installed the griller splitter today.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9a32c335.jpg

Next up are the windshield, emblems, bumpers, etc.

patrickt 12-01-2013 04:42 PM
That looks great. Did you notice how the front driver's side turn signal is not plumb straight? Peter insists on keeping it that way.:LOL:

DanEC 12-01-2013 04:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1274399)
That looks great. Did you notice how the front driver's side turn signal is not plumb straight? Peter insists on keeping it that way.:LOL:
Thanks Patrick. You know - I remember reading about that years ago in an old thread. Something about Peter's original car had had some minor nose damage at one time and when molds were pulled from it the misalignment was not corrected. It must be pretty subtle as I have not really noticed it.

mickmate 12-01-2013 05:40 PM
It's the original look where they are cross eyed. The bumps to make them straight are replica giveaways.


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