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-   -   Progress on #782 (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/102895-progress-782-a.html)

ERA Chas 12-04-2013 10:41 AM

Place it on the floor in the sunniest room in your home in direct sunlight. OR put it in your street car parked in bright sunlight a few hours-even with temps in 40's. I've dried small painted parts in the car which easily gets the surfaces up to 80's.
Keep a heat gun (not hair dryer) handy while doing the install and play it on stressed areas.

patrickt 12-04-2013 10:46 AM

Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.;)

kevins2 12-04-2013 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1274774)
Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.;)

:LOL: Something to be said for that. I fitted my tonneau cover and it did take a lot of patience - came out nice, though. And, just to make it harder, I lined the inside of it with felt where it will touch the paint. The vinyl, particularly corners where it is folded and stitched, felt a bit harsh so worth the extra work. I imagine the top will be more difficult to fit. If I recall, ERA wanted $800 to fit it to the car.

Kevin

patrickt 12-04-2013 11:53 AM

Shock and Awe
 
Am I reading this right? http://www.erareplicas.com/427/427options.pdf ERA wants almost ten grand for a fitted soft top now?:eek:

DonC 12-04-2013 11:58 AM

They may be getting their parts from Ferrari now hence the cost );-)

DonC

kevins2 12-04-2013 12:30 PM

I would say this line:

Soft top and bows (Requires fitting to car) .................................................. ......................................$9850

is a typo.

patrickt 12-04-2013 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2 (Post 1274781)
I would say this line:

Soft top and bows (Requires fitting to car) .................................................. ......................................$9850

is a typo.

It's at the very bottom of this page: Options list listed at $985, plus fitting. Ehhhh, what's a zero here and there.:cool:

DanEC 12-04-2013 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1274774)
Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.;)

Patrick - I'm not sure. I'm kind of a do it yourself-type guy. Try anything once unless the cost of specialized tools is just plain prohibitive. I've rebuilt seats and re-upholstered them. I hate to take a car to anyone and leave it - you never know what will happen to it. Also, custom upholstery work in my neck of the woods has gotten ridiculous. In my car club there are many stories in recent years of cars sitting untouched at an upholstery shop for 6, 8, 10 months before they get to the work. They all seem to be like this around here - custom work is set aside while they do profitable small repairs on new and used cars for dealers. I know of one guy who left his car at a paint and body shop for about 4 years. The guy worked on it off and on but I would drive by and see it sitting outside in the weather. Before he got it back rust started blooming out again and they had to strip the car back down and start over. Then he noticed that nice original parts on the car seemed to be deteriorating - he suspected a worker was stripping parts off the car and Ebay'ing them and replacing them with junk parts from the salvage yard.

I will tackle the top myself. And I promise I'll read ERA's instructions. :3DSMILE:

Dan

avanti-176 12-04-2013 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1274686)
Dan - as best I can measure on the car, the grill opening is around 26-1/2 inches wide at the splitter. The actual sheet metal splitter is 26-1/4 give or take a sixteenth.

Thanks Dan, mine is just a shade under 26-1/2 so it seems as if the ERA splitter should be able to work, now to see if they might sell me one...

Thanks again,
Dan

patrickt 12-04-2013 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti-176 (Post 1274826)
Thanks Dan, mine is just a shade under 26-1/2 so it seems as if the ERA splitter should be able to work, now to see if they might sell me one...

Thanks again,
Dan

Uhhh, you might want to make sure that an errant zero doesn't make its way in to the price.:rolleyes:

avanti-176 12-04-2013 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1274827)
Uhhh, you might want to make sure that an errant zero doesn't make its way in to the price.:rolleyes:



It's almost Christmas, definitely the wrong time of year for a stray zero to be messing with my desired shiny things. :JEKYLHYDE

DanEC 12-05-2013 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti-176 (Post 1274826)
Thanks Dan, mine is just a shade under 26-1/2 so it seems as if the ERA splitter should be able to work, now to see if they might sell me one...

Thanks again,
Dan

Hopefully they will. You will probably want the piece of plastic chrome trim for the front of it. I understand a piece of VW chrome trim can also be made to work (it may have been the original source). I think there was a thread in the Originality Forum about this a couple of years ago.

Dan

tboneheller 12-05-2013 05:43 AM

I have a brand new ERA splitter (no chrome trim) & an unfitted soft top (still in the box) w/ bows. Send a P/M if interested.

strictlypersonl 12-05-2013 08:28 AM

My recollection is that strip we originally used was from a Karmann Ghia hood. We haven't been able to find those in about twenty years.

DanEC 12-06-2013 04:29 PM

Icy, cold day here with sleet all day. Fortunately Little Rock itself missed the freezing rain. Spent the day in the garage installing bumpers, trim, odds and ends. So, here are some pictures of Cobra bling:

Mounted the bumpers:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ffa4ca1e-1.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps157d7f5d.jpg

The usual emblems:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc89c73f9.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps17c1f782.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...554d2670-1.jpg

I cut some gasket washers to go under the flare on the top of the ferrules since they will never sit evenly on the body all the way around and I was concerned an edge could chip paint. Also, on the underside I put a thin O-ring between the paint and the C-clip that ERA uses to secure the ferrule. I figured the ends of the C-clip might dig into the paint. Overkill I'm sure but it kept me out of holiday decorating for awhile:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1a2d41f8-1.jpg
Street roadster ash tray in the console. I've never smoked in my life:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...17903ade-1.jpg

Street roadster gas cap (except for incorrect button release):

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps27ba5b7e.jpg

I should get the windshield mounted tomorrow and then it will look somewhat like a car. Still have the rear bulkhead to cover with vinyl and that isn't going to happen in a closed garage in this weather.

Stay warm everyone. :)

kevins2 12-06-2013 05:17 PM

Dan,

Looks great, I enjoyed looking at the photos. That really does beat holiday decorating!

Enjoy.

Kevin

DanEC 12-07-2013 04:03 AM

Street car bumpers?
 
I'm curious as to what others with the full street bumpers have done with the threaded rod spacers? Left them natural? Painted or powder coated them? What color?

I have no idea what the originals looked like in that area. Natural may be fine as long as they stay clean and don't rust.

Jim Holden 12-07-2013 07:08 AM

As I recall, the tubes that go over the threaded rod are aluminium. A little polish every now and then should take cae of them.
Jim

DanEC 12-07-2013 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Holden (Post 1275167)
As I recall, the tubes that go over the threaded rod are aluminium. A little polish every now and then should take cae of them.
Jim

Thanks Jim. Can you also take a look at my other ERA post on the fit of the sidecurtains to windshield and give me your opinion?

I should add that I like the answer on polished aluminum. After finally getting that front bumper bolted in with those hard to get to threaded rod/nuts behind the grill - I hope to never remove it again.

Thanks

Dan

DanEC 12-15-2013 03:58 PM

Not much progress this week. Had the windshield on but had to remove it for an issue with the rear view mirror bracket. I did a trial with the vinyl for the rear bulkhead. I applied sound deadner/insulation over the rear bulkhead which ends up lumpy enough to reflect through vinyl. I had a roll of sunscreen fabric laying around that I thought might work as an underlayment to provide a smooth surface under the vinyl. It's pretty stiff and has a fine woven texture. I used it on the differential/brake access cover and it looks like it will work fine. This will be a lot of work as basically I will have to cover the rear bulkhead twice with material.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps3310e10e.jpg

The ice has finally left the driveway to where I could back my Lightning pickup backed out and get a couple pictures with a little more perspective.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps67d5ab68.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9275c06b.jpg


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