Cost to complete ERA?

Grubby · #1 (**permalink**) 05-24-2010, 06:14 PM

I am currently between ERAs and looking to either buy what I want or build. I have the quote from ERA. It is for a painted roller, less assembly of the front and rear suspensions, install of electrical, install of interior and of course no engine or trans. Total cost estimate is right at $50k.

Assuming my engine budget is $14k, what is the no kidding cost to finish this ERA? I already have a freshly rebuilt Jag 3rd member w/3.54 gears. My guess is $65-$70k.

I noticed a roller from Kirkham is $57k. That does not seem like much more, but I am sure I am missing something. A typical late number ERA sells for less than $60k and a typical Kirkham is in the low $100s.

Thanks.
John

mr bruce · #2 (**permalink**) 05-24-2010, 06:17 PM

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...uct=2921&cat=2

Three Peaks · #3 (**permalink**) 05-24-2010, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr bruce

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...uct=2921&cat=2

Hard to beat Bill's (mrmustang) ERA for the money. And it is completely sorted out and ready to drive. For the price Bill is asking, you could afford to repaint it if you don't like the British Racing Green color and still be ahead of a new one.

Hard to believe it hasn't sold yet.

Bob

tboneheller · #4 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 06:14 AM

Why people don't like green, I don't know. I sold my 1970 SS396 fully restored Chevelle to make room for my Cobra years ago. I could have gotten twice the money for it if it was red. Although I like green cars, I will never again own one. A person can't go wrong with an ERA no matter what the color is.

I completed ERA505 for around $42,000 back in 1997.

Excaliber · #5 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 07:35 AM

Ewww, a green Chevelle? I'll pass.

Oh, a green replica Cobra? Excellent choice!

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby

I am currently between ERAs and looking to either buy what I want or build. I have the quote from ERA. It is for a painted roller, less assembly of the front and rear suspensions, install of electrical, install of interior and of course no engine or trans. Total cost estimate is right at $50k.

John, am I reading this correctly? A painted roller, with no engine, no trans, no driveshaft, no rear suspension, no front suspension, no electrical, and no interior is now at $50k?

Excaliber · #7 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 07:49 AM

...must include a $10,000 paint job I reckon. That do seem rather high for the specs listed.

strictlypersonl · #8 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

John, am I reading this correctly? A painted roller, with no engine, no trans, no driveshaft, no rear suspension, no front suspension, no electrical, and no interior is now at $50k?

I suppose some people could work the price up with some bizarre additions (and it does happen), but $50K will get you a nice painted Comp roller.Sample SC kits

mrmustang · #9 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 08:13 AM

British Racing Green with no stripes is such a classic look, I'm not sure why some dislike it so.

RodKnock · #10 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby

I noticed a roller from Kirkham is $57k. That does not seem like much more, but I am sure I am missing something. A typical late number ERA sells for less than $60k and a typical Kirkham is in the low $100s.Thanks. John

Remember a Kirkham roller at $57K comes in a file finish, no paint. Add "X" for a paint job, add "Y" for a brushed finish or add "Z" for a polished finish.

I do have to apologize, but I'm one of THOSE people who just doesn't like green.

I hear blue with white stripes is always a good color combo.

Grubby · #11 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

John, am I reading this correctly? A painted roller, with no engine, no trans, no driveshaft, no rear suspension, no front suspension, no electrical, and no interior is now at $50k?

I what meant was driveshaft included, ERA rear (not assembled) included, front suspension not assembeld but included. Paint was also included. The interior and electrical need installed but are included.

I think all I need to supply are wheels, tires, engine, trans, and 3rd member. I am sure there are numerous other small items.

I am trying to make the best choice.
1. Build an ERA
2. Buy a late numbered chassis that is red or black with ERA differential and a few other choice options (I am pretty picky on options. Green with Tan interior is not on the list)
3. Kirkham if it is in my budget - I susupect it is not.

The ERA kit quoted seemed very complete. I am just looking for what things I am not adding into the equation.

John

SSSammy · #12 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 12:02 PM

Here are some things that I sourced for my painted roller that may or may not be priced in your deal. Worst case, it could add up to $30K:

FE engine of your choice, with water pump, carb, dyno'd and checked for leaks.
Primary exhaust pipes and side pipes, unique to ERA
Bellhousing and engine plate
Pilot bushing
Flywheel and bolts
Clutch disc
Pressure plate and bolts
Throw out bearing
Starter and bolts
Radiator hoses and clamps
Belts
Pulleys and bolts
Flex fuel line from chassis to carb
Fuel filter between pump and carb, AN fittings
Fuel log
MSD 6AL or similar, coil, and distributor
Alternator and mount and bolts
Battery
Voltage regulator
Transmission and bolts
Transmission spacer if using a Tremec
Transmission mount and bolts
Shifter handle and bolts
Trans tail shaft
Driveshaft, joints, pinion flange and bolts
Complete Jag rear, not just pumpkin, with shortened half shafts
Front brakes, mounting brackets and bolts
Fuel pump and bolts
Engine mounts and nuts and washers per manual
Wheels and tires (send to ERA so you can roll your car off the carrier and into your garage)

I'd have ERA assemble the suspension and rear end. That way, you know it's all there

But the good news is that your labor is free

Sam

patrickt · #13 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 01:10 PM

Yep, it's those bolts & screws that really add up. Seems like they're everywhere....

ZOERA-SC7XX · #14 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 03:53 PM

You can repaint that (green) sucker for a song. Have ERA do up some new seats and rugs...you'll save thousands. A well sorted and proven car.

Excaliber · #15 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 04:14 PM

A big reason for buying new is to get the specs you want, if you've got the cash it's a valid option. For those on a budget, or "smart money" that still want a nice ride, then a car like Bill's ERA makes a lot of sense. By the way, I think Bill's ad indicates the seats were recently recovered all ready?

SSSammy · #16 (**permalink**) 05-25-2010, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yep, it's those bolts & screws that really add up. Seems like they're everywhere....

Cr@p! Forgot ...
Bellhousing and engine plate .. and BOLTS

Sam

Grubby · #17 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 04:39 PM

What is a good estimated budget to complete an ERA?
-427 side oiler (nothing exotic)
-TKO 600
-ERA rear
-6 pin
-basic street tires
-good paint, but not show quality

I am pretty handy and will do a good chunk of the work. Having ERA bond the body and powder coat the chassis sounds like a big time and head ache saver. Also, likely to have the car painted in CT.

Can I complete this project for less than $65,000? Less than $60,000?

Thanks for all of the input. There is some great information on this site.

John

ZOERA-SC7XX · #18 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 04:50 PM

Go with a toploader. It's bulletproof and true to the Cobra. Why would you care about a couple of mpg after spending all that cash.
Figure about 10/12g for an iron 427 side oiler.

Rickd · #19 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 05:10 PM

I have an ERA, love the car - best glass bodied car on the market (IMO) - but there is a real nice kirkham 289 that just came on the market for $70K. Located in Orlando, FL. That's the only one I would consider as an alternative. But if you are doing work yourself, you should be able to get it done under $60K on the ERA.

Excaliber · #20 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 06:03 PM

Actually, I'm getting 12 to 13 mpg with my side oiler with 428 crank and dual four barrels. Special built motor for street, small carb's, good manners, custom pistons for quench and a vacuum advance dist. Still, I run the 1/4 at 11.9 on street tires and a close ratio top loader (close ratio is a poor choice for drag racing), so it's not slow.

Thats steady freeway cruising at 70 mph and no screwing around. Around town? Screwing around? 8-9 mpg

If I was building a new one I'd have to consider a 428 with single carb and a roller hydraulic cam. Again, I'd go with custom pistons to get some quench. Even a 427 center oiler will save some bucks over the side oiler and still be perfectly fine.

My top loader was needing some work so it was either major rebuild or go with a TKO. So I went with the TKO600, I'm pretty sure my 1/4 mile ET will drop now that I have some decent gear ratios to work with. Kind of nice having that lower cruise rpm as well. To early to tell if it's doing better on mpg or not. I suppose it will, but what ever...