So, Should I Replace This Part or Not? - Page 2

rodneym · #1 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:01 AM

Way better picture. That nylon is down to the quick. You know what you need to do. Remove the entire drivetrain.

But it's creeping over time, don't you think? It's not like the fork took all that off at one time. Plus, the nut doesn't seem centered on the fork anymore.
rodneym

Z-linkCobra · #2 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodneym

Way better picture. That nylon is down to the quick. You know what you need to do. Remove the entire drivetrain.

But it's creeping over time, don't you think? It's not like the fork took all that off at one time. Plus, the nut doesn't seem centered on the fork anymore.
rodneym

You need to pay real close attention to this post...he's right that did not happen in one swipe. Something is moving side to side down there that is probably going to get worse as time goes on.

Good catch Rod.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #3 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 04:09 PM

I had to cut my hardened fork to clear the tunnel flange but could not get the cutoff tool in there, so I used a Sawsall. Worked like a charm and didn't have to take anything apart. After you get your required clearance, mix up some epoxy and apply it to the worn area.

Ibr8k4vetts · #4 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 05:29 PM

Just put in a small block and you won't have that problem!

cobred · #5 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 08:45 PM

Maybe if someone holds the clutch pedal to the floor the fork will move enough to get a cutoff wheel or grinder in there. Then just leave the master alone if its not leaking.

cdnus · #6 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 08:31 AM

Maybe you could remove the slave cylinder rod to allow the spring to pull the fork as far forward as possible. Then if it moves forward enough you could get in there with a small cable drive Dremel attachment & grind the end of the fork the required amount.
With the fork in place you would be able to move it by hand back into position & check for clearance.

Craig

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 09:33 AM

Here's a better shot of the rub. The previous photo was a little deceptive on the angles. It will be impossible to grind/cut the end of the fork without removing the master cylinder first, and it doesn't matter whether the fork is forward or back in that regard. What I ended up doing for now, while I wait for a new plastic inlet from Tilton, is to mark the rub area with a black magic marker to see if it is still rubbing or not. I'll try and get the car out for run when the weather improves.

kgs365 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 10:18 AM

is the additional roll bar causing this rub?....sorry...maybe i should just say yes...i'd replace it!...it can't more then a $20.00 piece of plastic that would cause nothing but grief when it brakes

Three Peaks · #9 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:05 AM

Patrick,
I have a Wilwood unit which I think is the same one as the Tiltons use. You don't have much plastic left there as you probably already know.
If you need one, I have a couple spares. I could drop one in the mail for you if you need it quickly.

Bob

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Three Peaks

I could drop one in the mail for you if you need it quickly.

Thanks Bob, but Pegasus has already shipped one out to me. I know I have to take everything apart and replace it. But...

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

... you could get in there with a small cable drive Dremel attachment & grind the end of the fork the required amount.

Craig, I stuck "can my Dremel cut through case hardened steel" and this little blog popped up with photos. http://blog.daveduncan.ca/?p=2274 Having a relatively small, easily controlled tool like my Dremel could make this job a heckuva lot easier than I first thought....

dcdoug · #11 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Craig, I stuck "can my Dremel cut through case hardened steel" and this little blog popped up with photos. Having a relatively small, easily controlled tool like my Dremel could make this job a heckuva lot easier than I first thought....

I use a cut-off wheel in my rotozip all the time. 30,000 rpm = knife through butter.

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I use a cut-off wheel in my rotozip all the time. 30,000 rpm = knife through butter.

It would never have occurred to me that my Dremel would cut through my clutch fork. Makes me appreciate the fact that Jamo hasn't kicked me off this forum....

cdnus · #13 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:11 PM

Those little buggers will cut almost anything steel, but are VERY fragile.
They will explode in a heartbeat if jammed up at all, be sure to wear protection

(for your eyes )

If you have access problems with the dremel, have a look at the cable drive attachment. It will get in much tighter places.

Craig

ERA Chas · #14 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Makes me appreciate the fact that Jamo hasn't kicked me off this forum....

11,674.
We live in hope.

RodKnock · #15 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:10 PM

Personally, I would sell the car. Too many issues.

patrickt · #16 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Personally, I would sell the car. Too many issues.

I'm shocked you're not praising me for having the eagle eye to have spotted this before it left me stranded.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

Those little buggers will cut almost anything steel, but are VERY fragile.
They will explode in a heartbeat if jammed up at all, be sure to wear protection

(for your eyes )

If you have access problems with the dremel, have a look at the cable drive attachment. It will get in much tighter places.

Craig

Got it. I think I'll have plenty of room once I remove the master cylinder, and I think I would probably do that anyway to get that plastic inlet on the top of it. Uhhh, I guess I should take pics?

EDIT -- Cable Drive, hmmm... Man, I love an excuse to buy a new tool.

elmariachi · #17 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 01:57 PM

Did someone confirm that the Dremel wheel will actually cut it? I have never seen such hardened steel. I had to have a machine shop chop off the end and reposition the slave rod hole and they even squealed about how hard it was to cut and drill.

patrickt · #18 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elmariachi

Did someone confirm that the Dremel wheel will actually cut it? I have never seen such hardened steel. I had to have a machine shop chop off the end and reposition the slave rod hole and they even squealed about how hard it was to cut and drill.

I see that Dremel sells a diamond studded wheel, but I'm going to try the reinforced ones first. They also sell tungsten carbide stuff.

elmariachi · #19 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I see that Dremel sells a diamond studded wheel, but I'm going to try the reinforced ones first. They also sell tungsten carbide stuff.

I'd be putting on one of these first:

cdnus · #20 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 02:20 PM

OOOOHHHHH!!!
you opened a whole bunch of doors for Chas with that