5-pin wheel issues?

kevins2 · #1 (**permalink**) 09-05-2012, 11:47 AM

Thanks Patrick, can't believe I somehow missed that thread when I searched for various iterations of 5-pin problems - it only contains 239 posts, after all

. That thread effectively ended in 2009 and references a couple of other threads (one from 2002 and in the last post one from 2010). Lots of good information in there that does indicate that the 6 pin system is superior, but $2,800 better? I'm confident that Peter and Doug will steer me in the right direction, which so far is that the 6 pin set-up is a worthy investment. Once I digest all the facts and get the answers to a few more questions and the most current information, I'll simply have to decide for myself...

Thanks, and still looking to hear from anyone that had issues assembling their 5-pin set-ups on ERA front-ends.

Regards,

Kevin

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 09-05-2012, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2

Lots of good information in there that does indicate that the 6 pin system is superior, but $2,800 better? I'm confident that Peter and Doug will steer me in the right direction, which so far is that the 6 pin set-up is a worthy investment.

Kevin, I can usually remember every conversation I had with Peter, Doug, Bob, Jack, etc. verbatim. But, I have absolutely no recollection whatsoever of talking with them about the pin drives... which tells me I probably never did. I think when I sat down with Peter I had already penciled in 6-pin drives and the matter was just never discussed. I can only guess that, at the time, I had dismissed the 5-pins as potentially causing more than $2,500 worth of trouble. On the other hand, there are loads of 5-pin cars running around out there without a lick of trouble. I think if you get the pins straight, and use the high quality, strong material, then 5-pins will be just as good as 6-pins. But, on this one, take a cue from ERA Chas, and don't listen to me... because I honestly don't know.

ERA Chas · #3 (**permalink**) 09-05-2012, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2

Lots of good information in there that does indicate that the 6 pin system is superior, but $2,800 better? I'm confident that Peter and Doug will steer me in the right direction, which so far is that the 6 pin set-up is a worthy investment.

First off-I've only had the 6's. Reason is, my wheels only came that way. But the car was originally built with bolt-on's and I bought the 6 pin hubs and spindles from Peter in about '92.
Like Rick, I'm not a fan of hanging adapters on suspension points-for weight, machining, offset or anything. Yes the money is a notable difference but I figure you can also piss that much away on heaters, tops, curtains, Smiths or similar fru-fru. I rather have a non-goofy wheel attachment. No knock on the other guys who have had 5's trouble free.
I notice in your posts that you seem very concerned about 'wheel indexing'. Fear not-it's no big deal and you should do it no matter which you get. Here's how I did it and it's cake:
Using 'White Out', make a simple dot or straight line on the edge of the hub. Then when lifting the wheel on, orient the tire stem with the mark you made. The WO stays a long time and you always put the wheel on the same way:

Further, mark each wheel back with a label or dot(s) to ID R/F, L/F or D-river, P-assenger, etc. Same wheel goes on the same corner every time in the same relation to the hub. I did that because the mag transferred metal and I wanted to keep them 'mated'. Worked perfectly for two decades.
See the label 'P'? Label the K/O's too-can't hurt.