Brake Res take off ?

428street · #1 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 02:16 PM

So I started doing a bunch of work on my car again. One of my projects is the brake res cans. I had a leaking one some time ago which I replaced. Now they are all peeling around the top edge. Here is the problem. I forgot how to take the cans off. I got anxious and took one off but I'm not sure it was the correct way. After I took the can off by using a socket on the inside nut and holding the nut on the underside of the can I remembered doing it much differently last time. Pretty sure I disconnected the can from the bottom clamp where the line meets to rubber hose but I'm not 100% sure. So I have two questions.

1. What is the proper way to take the cans off?

2. Now that I have taken apart the one can, it's hard to get all the pieces back together as there is a nyloc type red material on the end of the nut and I can't get the inside nut screwed onto the fitting. (If that makes sense).

Help

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 03:28 PM

There's only four pieces to it. There's the "double threaded nozzle thingy," two washers (either copper or higher quality), and a nut. I think it is impossible to put it together wrong -- there's just no way to do it wrong. It's easier if you have it out of the car and are not hunched over the fender well trying to herniate a disc, though. Here's a PDF that might help you: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/p...DF/582-976.pdf

DanEC · #3 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 03:54 PM

I worked on mine recently. What you described sounds right. In addition there is a second fitting on the bottom for the flared short metal line to the rubber hoses. You need two open end wrenches on the bottom to completely disassemble it. The washer on the inside of mine had a ring of red rubber (silicone?) to seal with. I took mine apart to apply a gas/oil resistant sealer at all unions and connections. I also took ERAChase's suggestion of double clamping the hose connections wiith the screw clamps 180 deg apart. Only the clutch can is filled on my car right now but it's dry.

So you have options. You can loosen the clamp on the hose and remove the entire thing from the hose up - break loose the flared line connection underneath and remove the eintire can assembly - or as you apparently did, remove the inside nut on the bottom of the can and remove it from the line and connection. If my hose line connections were good and dry, I think I would use two wrenches on the bottom to loosen the flared union joint and remove the can from the line.

I also bought the rubber inside seals to install in the lids. Works very well - should help prevent leaks at the lids. I think this was Patrick's trick he published here.

Good luck Frank

428street · #4 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 04:23 PM

Thanks guys. I was thinking about some rubber rings as well. Any info on those, i.e., where to get them. My issue is not that I don't know how to put it back together but I can't screw the double threaded piece back onto the nut that goes inside the can. The red material just will not allow me to start the threading process. I'll fiddle with it a bit. I just had to walk away from it.

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 428street

Thanks guys. I was thinking about some rubber rings as well. Any info on those, i.e., where to get them.

What you want is the Dorman HELP! 42072 Master Cylinder Gasket. It fits right in the top of the Girling lids and makes a pretty good difference. Order it off Amazon: Dorman HELP! 42072 Master Cylinder Gasket : Amazon.com

DanEC · #6 (**permalink**) 12-23-2012, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 428street

Thanks guys. I was thinking about some rubber rings as well. Any info on those, i.e., where to get them. My issue is not that I don't know how to put it back together but I can't screw the double threaded piece back onto the nut that goes inside the can. The red material just will not allow me to start the threading process. I'll fiddle with it a bit. I just had to walk away from it.

If you're trying to do it wih the hard line and double threaded piece still on the car, I think it's going to be tough. If you are working off of the car, I can't remember for sure but I may have used a pair of oversized, long needle nose pliers to hold the washer and then the nut while I threaded them on to the double threaded piece.

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 12-24-2012, 05:07 AM

Once the can is off the car, it's easy to reassemble the pieces. Put the fitting and washer in the socket wrench, hold the can upside down and insert from the bottom up.

428street · #8 (**permalink**) 12-24-2012, 06:02 AM

I thought so as well Bob but getting the nut with the red "thread lock" type material back together is challenging. I can't get the threads started. Like I said I was frustrated yesterday and will try again today. Thanks.

tcrist · #9 (**permalink**) 12-24-2012, 09:17 AM

From what I am reading it sounds like you cant get the threads on the nut to catch on the fitting. Try putting some filler material in the socket so the nut will not slide up to far. That way you can put some pressure on the nut to get the threads to catch.

Of course I could be compleatly wrong in my understanding of the issue.

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 12-24-2012, 09:52 AM

I think you have to remove the can and do it outside the car. Pulling the can out is a very quick operation -- just pull the steel line out of the rubber hose. That's the way I'd do it. Maybe stick a Girling decal on there while you're at it.

428street · #11 (**permalink**) 12-27-2012, 06:52 PM

I'm not sold on the Girling sticker but it looks nice!! The straps should be black too

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 12-27-2012, 06:58 PM

Were you able to get it back together without pulling the can out?

428street · #13 (**permalink**) 12-31-2012, 06:46 PM

Yes, I got all cans out and the one can I was having problems with all set. I also bought the rubber seals recommended. Getting ready to blast them and repaint, hopefully for the last time.

mickmate · #14 (**permalink**) 12-31-2012, 06:54 PM

It's like putting a nyloc nut on nylon end first aye?

428street · #15 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 04:16 AM

It was easy Nick, if you need help I can show you how I did it!!!!

DanEC · #16 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 04:23 AM

What are you painting them with Frank? I suppose they can be powder coated which would be more resistant to brake fluid damage (I think). The seals should help though. When I was bleeding my clutch it would pull the seal down as the fluid was drawn out, so they had a good seal.

428street · #17 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 04:31 AM

Dan:

I've done a bunch of research and asked many people about this starting with Doug at ERA and down the line. Bottom line is there is no foolproof paint or system. I was told the metal is to thin for powder coating. ERA uses a two part epoxy process (which is what was on the cans) and that failed. Eastwood makes a paint specifically for brake fluid issues but it is not black. I was told DOT 5 fluid will work with no paint peeling but that is a project to change seals in the line of things in the system. I was also told that you can upgrade to DOT 5 without changing seals. Toss up on that one.

I bought the rubber seals that I think Patrick recommended and them seem like they will work fine. I believe the paint is less the issue if you can stop the tops from leaking.

After I blast the cans, I'm going to spray them with self etching primer then us a SEM paint (satin or semi-gloss) to paint the cans and go from there.

Open to any suggestions.

In my research I've also noticed on unrestored street cars that the brackets are black as well. I will be painting my unpainted straps black as well.

DanEC · #18 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 03:54 PM

Frank - I re-started the DOT 3/4 versus DOT 5 controversy sometime last summer. I would have preferred using DOT 5 also as I've had no trouble with it in my old Corvette for 20 years. But, the consensus of most (but not all) was that some of the seal materials used in the master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder have not held up with DOT 5. So I paid close attention to trying to tightly seal all the brake and clutch line components and went with DOT 5. I think you would be asking for trouble in trying to switch after several years since the old fluid has to be thoroughly flushed out.

I think you are right that the rubber seals may make the paint issue irrelevant.

Keep the posts coming. I can't keep pace with your strive for period correct details but I find them all facinating and adapt a good deal of them.

428street · #19 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 04:30 PM

Thanks Dan. I'll keep posting them as I am in winter project mode. Car is ripped apart.

Also working with Mickmate from Acton Custom to have him make me a radiator cover as close to the original as possible. ERA has one as well but it's not close to what the original one looked like. Also will have correct Serk tag with punch numbers in the plate.

This details are endless but that's what I enjoy to do.

tkb289 · #20 (**permalink**) 01-01-2013, 05:12 PM

Frank,

I would think powder coating would work, as I assume that is what is sometimes used on calipers?

Are the can seams soldered? If so, the issue with powder coating might be the high temperature baking process, causing the solder to flow? I can recommend a place out here on the west coast that has done a lot of parts for me and they have a lot of experience.

- Tim