Bad Starter

[Large Arbor]

My starter died tonight. I read in the ERA Manual for Shelby Blocks I should only use a powermaster (9406) or a CVR (5049 or 503/49M) starter.

I was hoping to find one locally. Any ideas as to why the limitation is solely to these two manufacturers / brands. Seems like there should be more to chose from.

Phil

[patrickt]

How are you sure the starter is bad? If it really is, just pull it out and have it rebuilt locally, then put it back in. It's just three bolts -- one of them is a little tricky to get to though.

[Large Arbor]

I can jump power across the solenoid and still no go. Pulled it complete out, put power to it and still no go. It was actually just two bolts to get out.

Are you thinking it could be something else?

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Are you thinking it could be something else?

Phil

No. If you put it down in the yard and attach jumper cables to it and touch them to a fully charged battery and nothing happens, then it's dead. I'd just drop it off at a local alternator/starter rebuilder. You'll have it back in a week and you'll know it fits.

[FWB]

those have the solenoid on the starter.
it could be just a bad solenoid, i agree with having it looked at . could be back on your way with just a solenoid

[Large Arbor]

Actually, I put positive power to the starter and it engaged, but did not rotate. Is that indicative of a bad starter or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Phil

[patrickt]

The one time I engaged a starter when it was in the front yard grass, by using jumper cables and a battery, it jumped up and almost caused an injury.

[patrickt]

I have never rebuilt a starter, but here's a nice little run down on it with plenty o' pics. FE Starter Motor Rebuild

[Large Arbor]

I will try to upload pics of it.

[Large Arbor]

One more.

[Large Arbor]

Ok, so I discovered with a good ground it all engages and spins. I am thinking that I just need to run a ground wire to the case of the starter and it should solve the problem.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Ok, so I discovered with a good ground it all engages and spins. I am thinking that I just need to run a ground wire to the case of the starter and it should solve the problem.

Yep. Inspect the ground cable from the battery negative terminal over to the passenger side head, or wherever your black cable terminates. Take it apart, look at it, wiggle it in your hands, clean it up, and put it back together. Usually a starter is pretty well grounded just by being bolted up to the engine.

[Large Arbor]

Well after a day and 1/2 of screwing with it, my technical more skilled older brother came over and I pulled the starter again and out of the car it would engage, but would only once in the car. So we pulled the cover / cap off of the solenoid on the starter and noticed when taking apart a loose screw on the solenoid cap. We pulled it apart and could see where it was arcing to the case. After cleaning / filing some contacts on the solenoid, we tested it and it worked outside the car. We put it back in the car and it worked. Has started several times. I let it warm up and tried it and it worked fine. I think for safety reasons I will buy a backup and put it in the trunk. At least I know what the problem is now.

[patrickt]

Well, that's good. Speaking of grounds, there's one on ERA cars that, unless someone told you where it was, you'd never find it. It's on the front, driver's side of the X-member. It's not on the engine side of that round piece, so it's kind of hard to see. A lot of the electrical components (fans, horns, head lights) get their ground feed from that connection, so it pays to check that. The other ground source is to the firewall right behind the passenger side cylinder head. That one's easy to see. The rear ground feed is easy to see, too. It's in the trunk, driver's side, where the quickjack/bumper bracket is bolted down. It wouldn't hurt to just find them and snug them all up.

[Large Arbor]

Thanks Pat, will look for them all. While working on the starter, I found a steering hold down nut off where it goes through the foot box. I got that back on and tight.

Phil

[strictlypersonl]

And don't forget the cable from the right cylinder head to the firewall.

[Large Arbor]

I can find no ground strap from either head to the firewall. Do you have a picture of where this is supposed to be?

Phil

[patrickt]

It's not a strap. It's a skinny little black wire. There is no frame to engine ground strap, and if you put an inductive ammeter around this skinny little black wire you'll find a good bit of the current for loads that are grounded to the frame are actually passing through this guy.

[Jim Holden]

In addition to the ground running from the pass side head to a bolt into the steel support behind the firewall, I always have a large ground strap running from the back of the transmission to the frame. See: Mallory 28135 Universal Ground Strap - Rakuten.com Shopping

[kevins2]

The ground strap that Jim is referring to came with my ERA, so check to see that it is there and is tightly connected. You can see it in the center foreground in the photo bleow.