Different ride height settings for ERA rear

[RICK LAKE]

strictly personal Bob There was not enought adjustment to get the toe in on the rearend. For a street driving car, having the toe over 1/2" off may not be felt or show up as a problem. The same applies for camber and thrust angle. I have seen alot of cobras to burn out and show their power. They have wheel hop, rear end of car jumping up on top of tires, darting right and left and outer issues. Some of the guys when to a Watt's linkage to stablize the wheel under acceration for better control. It does help.
You designed a complete new rearend for the lastest chassic cars and this one has adjustments for toe, a different mount to support and control movement of the rearend assembly. I am looking to change the rearend setup on era428 to the new setup.
The welder you have is a master. The jigs that are used will get the suspension in the ball park. Camber is the easier adjustment with adding or removing shims to get the top of the wheel in or out. Toe is a whole different problem.
Era didn't recommend using plastic bushing in my car wear roller bearing would go on lower control arms. With 15+ years and a small modification to the bushings, they are still solid with no play. keeping them greased in a 360 degrees works wonders.
I have found no issues with the rear cradle, wear of the holes, movement of the washers or wearing out of joints. I upped the power to this rearend to over 600+ of torque, not HP.
I have used the same rear springs that came with the kit and went to QA1 shocks with double adjustment, Same applies for front end with a higher spring rate for my weight and aluminum motor. Couple of videos show the car handles great, turns and remains flat. Hard accell show rearend squat of about 1" and straight as and arrow with power shifting. I run 200 wear tires for street class.
If there is ever an issue with the rearend, I would never hold ERA respondable for the modified changes I have done to this car. Rick L.

[RICK LAKE]

ERA 2076. Cliff If you want to talk about why I didn't do some things to my car and changed others, be more than happy. 732-254-3536 after 8:00 pm est time. Too much to type and I don't need the flack about what and what is not to be done to SFI speed parts. One side note, I have seen a blown clutch come out of a lakewood bellhousing at the track. If you are not racing and run a light flywheel and clutch assembly, trimming is OK, just not chancing this with my feet.

Royce C I was looking at the picture of your bellhousing. I know you have been racing for a long time. That bell looks like a titanium unit we used on the funny car back in the 70's. Is the picture poor, it looks like dents in it. You would know better than 98% of the prople here that blow clutches always seam to find a weak spot in a bellhousing setup. Most guys here are running 18-28 pound flywheels. What about the guys running 40 pounder on FE motors and the flywheels are not SFI rated. I know lakewood bells can and will handle this failure. Modify them and parts come out the bottom. Running over them sucks. I started with a 40pound flywheel and max 6,500 rpms. I run the same bellhousing with a 18 pound flywheel now and twin disc. I may switch to quick time on next motor. Rick L.