Fried Alternator Wire

[strictlypersonl]

Be careful about substituting stationary-spec house wire for an automotive type. The former uses larger-diameter strands which have more of a tendency to work-harden and fracture.

[DanEC]

I want to get ERA to fab it up and use their own supply of connectors. The wire strands are pretty heavy gage. Even if they are a little leary of finishing the wire on both ends to an exact length for fear of it being off a bit - I can crimp and solder the alternator end with the right eyelet and insulator sleeve.
Then it will look as good as new.

Thanks again.

Dan

[DanEC]

Looking for thumbs up or thumbs down on my slightly crispy alternator. While waiting for the replacement wire to arrive from ERA, I pulled the alternator out to take a closer look at it. The factory plastic insulator was fried more than anticipated. I removed it (I think it actually extends all the way through the hole in the case but it came off pretty easily).



I rigged up a replacement insulator and set it in a small bed of silicone caulk around the stud and came up with this as a repair. I ran the car after fixing the fried wire temporarily and it runs and charges fine. It does not appear to have actually ever managed to short to the case or anything else. The loose connection just generated a lot of resistance that caused high heat - it even melted a small spot out of the stud.



I put it back on the mount with the intent of running it this way but after reflecting a little I'm having second thoughts. I'm afraid the remaining insulator where the stud penetrates the case may be so crispy that after a few miles it will short through to the case.

Think I should just bite the bullet and replace it?

[Gaz64]

Yes.

New alternator and more robust terminals.