Shaft Seal Replacement - Page 2

davids2toys · #21 (**permalink**) 08-24-2014, 07:10 AM

Yes, I guess so...looks like a tough lesson though.
I remember doing the ebrake pads on my Unique(same inboard brake rear set up). After removing the ebrake calipers, decided to do the regular calipers and pads because I was there and I did not like the uneven wear on the pads. Getting to the the caliper bolts was tough , after that they came out pretty easy. I wonder if I had not had the ebrake calipers removed already if I would have ending up learning as you are???
Good luck with the job!
Dave

Large Arbor · #22 (**permalink**) 08-24-2014, 08:22 AM

It was not a terrible job, it just took a lot of time. I am toying with the upgrade to the outboard brake option. Anyone done that? I am a little discourage that the seal failed in less than 5,000 miles.

Phil

Grubby · #23 (**permalink**) 08-24-2014, 02:11 PM

Phil,

I actually changed 755 from the standard rear to the ERA design when I bought it. The change is pricey because you need to change the front brakes to the optional 4 piston units at the same time.

I wanted to change gear ratios at the same time and found a guy building an ERA that purchased my front brakes and rear assembly.

You can reuse your half shafts, hubs and 3rd member.

The labor to assemble the rear and install it and install the front brakes wasn't much different than you just went thru. It is a bit time consuming setting bearing preload on the hubs, but I am sure ERA would do that upon request. My total net cost was around $4k and I had a 3rd member on hand and assembled the rear assembly.

All the mounting points are already on your car.

John

Large Arbor · #24 (**permalink**) 08-24-2014, 04:26 PM

John,

Did I read your earlier post right that you had to replace a seal on the ERA optional rearend (outboard brakes) as well? Do you think moving to the outboard variety will greatly reduce the seal failure?

Also, I think the gearing is fine on mine. So if I understand cost should be about $4k? I will do as much as I can to keep costs down.

Phil

Grubby · #25 (**permalink**) 08-24-2014, 06:31 PM

Phil,

I had an O ring failure in 178. I still had to pull the stub axle to fix it.

755 had a seal leak within a few thousand miles of installing the ERA rear. I think it was just one of those things. 12,000 more miles with no other issues.

I don't think the Jag design is any more prone to leaks than the ERA design. In my opinion you gain cool factor, save some weight and get bigger brakes.

Oddly, I probably saved some cash on my rear change because I had a 3rd member ready to install that I got a great deal on. Also, I found a guy that wanted the Jag rear and front brakes as a package for his ERA build. I pulled the rear as an assembly and sold it. The profit from that off set the cost of the new parts.

The 4 piston front brakes and parts to build up the ERA rear are plenty expensive. I think it was in the range of $6k.

John

Large Arbor · #26 (**permalink**) 08-30-2014, 06:23 AM

Anyone know what the stub axle bolts are torque to?I was thinking I saw 85 ft lbs.?

Phil

Large Arbor · #27 (**permalink**) 09-07-2014, 01:26 PM

Ok shaft seal replaced and no leaks! Woohoo. Done!!!

Phil

Large Arbor · #28 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 06:19 PM

Well it worked for two weeks and then it started leaking. I have the shaft out again and will be sending back for a replacement NNot sure what is causing the problem. Any chance there is pressure building up?

Phil

Grubby · #29 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 07:03 PM

Phil,

There are at least two generations of seals. One will not seal in the other. Also, it is important to replace the O ring. I have had leaks caused by both and the gear lube comes out the same place.

John

Large Arbor · #30 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 07:45 PM

Thanks John, I will call ERA and see if I can get a new O-ring as well. I read on some other posts that there is a vent tube. Does anyone know if that needs to have the cap off or not?

Phil

Grubby · #31 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 02:56 PM

You need a vent. The Jag has a vent screwed into the cover. It is needed to allow for heating and cooling of the gear lube.

Large Arbor · #32 (**permalink**) 10-06-2014, 12:23 PM

Ok, so I removed the stub axle and sent it off to Mid South Gear Speciallists. They inform me that the stub axle has rust pits where the seal sits thereby allowing oil to seep past. I will call ERA tomorrow, but does anyone know where to find a replacement stub axle. Its 19 splline. The car was built in 2006 so I am a but frustrated with this issue. Its got less than 5,000 miles on it.

Phil

Grubby · #33 (**permalink**) 10-06-2014, 02:05 PM

Phil,

Try Ebay, I have seen them on there. You do need to know if you have a series 1, 2 or 3. Series 1 has the large nut exposed while assembled in the differential. Series 2 and 3 are more subtle.

ERA has some as well.

Also, I am in need of one of the special Jaguar only bolts used to hold the half shaft to the stub axle. There are 4 bolts that are pressed into the stub axle. I have a buggered up one and can't seem to find a new one. Do you want to sell a few to help defer the cost of your replacement stub axle. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

John

Large Arbor · #34 (**permalink**) 10-06-2014, 05:11 PM

If I had a few extra I would. The ones I have are on the vehicle.

Phil

Large Arbor · #35 (**permalink**) 10-09-2014, 10:39 AM

John,

I ordered a used new stub axle from ERA. I sent you a pm.

Phil