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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2015, 09:56 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Patrick, by any chance, do you have a link for those Torque straps?
If you really want a torque strap in your Cobra, you're going to have to do some fabbing because you're not going to find an "off the shelf" bracket that fits perfectly from your block to your frame. That said, here are some points to consider:

1). If you run your torque strap to the back of your aluminum head, you're likely to damage it.

2). If you run it to the front of your block, you're likely to experience unusual torque steer. Consider placing it more between the engine and transmission.

3). The "bolt through the left mount" trick has been used successfully for decades, and the original drag racers in the early 60's (who are now well in to their 70's) report on www.Fordfe.com that that was all they used on their original drag cars and they rarely broke a mount.

Summit and Jegs have suitable torque straps to get you well on your way to crafting one that fits your car -- and I think it would be about a half day job to fab something nice. Here's a pic:


Last edited by patrickt; 03-29-2015 at 10:02 AM.. Reason: typo
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2015, 03:48 PM
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I installed a torque strap of some sort on my GTO or Firebird in the early 70s. It seems like I used steel cable and cable clamps to make it. Probably read about it in Car Craft or Hot Rod at the time.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2015, 04:54 PM
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This is a pretty good thread on torque straps. Engine torque rod, cure for the torn motor mount?
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:50 AM
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Grubby nice idea on the motor mounts. will wait until tested in real life. High HP or Torque may split them apart an do alot of damage. It's sound like you have the right stuff mixed for this to work. Would still want the bolt added
As for torque straps, to get the most out of them they need to be located at the back of the block on both sides. Some use 2 of the bellhousing bolt holes. In old days used to make motor mount that bolted to the block and had solid mounts to subframes. Ton of vibration but when setup right, the power was not wasted in twist. We used heavy duty turn buckles and chain to get the right amount of load and control in early days
There is a a major downside this this, you need to match the trans mount to the motor mounts or will damage or snap off the tail housing or mount location. If the trans mount is rubber, got to goto poly mount.
There is more vibration depending on motor and how wild it is. If you want a cobra without noise, shaking, stinking, vibration, heat and about 20 other issues,why did you buy one?? Add extra foam to your seat.
Waiting to hear how the testing goes. Rick L.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:20 AM
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I also mounted my motors in solid mounts, and the transmission in harder rubber since 25 years. I had the transmount solid once, but saw hairline cracks in the powder coating of the transmission crossmember which told me something!

I never felt the vibration were detrimental. My counter argument was that I increased torsional stiffness to the chassis. Apparently Nascar had a front motor plate and one at the bellhousing, and no rear transmission mount.

If you happen to have vibration at cruising speed (55mph?) I can understand that it is annoying.

On a side note, my differential was also mounted solid.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:04 PM
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Rick,

I agree that trans and engine need the same type of mounts. That is why I suggested much earlier to buy a urethane trans mount and that is what I plan to do. They are available from Summit and others.

The likelyhood of these mounts splitting is less than the cheap rubber pieces. However, I like insurance and put a bolt thru both mounts. They can't come apart and if the bolt has some clearance it won't make the mount any more harsh.

Testing is a small problem. I am between Cobra's. Let me check with a local guy that has a 482 powered ERA.

John
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
If you really want a torque strap in your Cobra, you're going to have to do some fabbing because you're not going to find an "off the shelf" bracket that fits perfectly from your block to your frame. That said, here are some points to consider:

1). If you run your torque strap to the back of your aluminum head, you're likely to damage it.

2). If you run it to the front of your block, you're likely to experience unusual torque steer. Consider placing it more between the engine and transmission.

3). The "bolt through the left mount" trick has been used successfully for decades, and the original drag racers in the early 60's (who are now well in to their 70's) report on 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum that that was all they used on their original drag cars and they rarely broke a mount.

Summit and Jegs have suitable torque straps to get you well on your way to crafting one that fits your car -- and I think it would be about a half day job to fab something nice. Here's a pic:

Nice Patrick...thanks
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