Ballist Resistor

[R&B]

Question: Does anyone know what might cause a ballast resistor to burn out (in about two seconds)? I went to start the car for the first time over the holidays and the resistor burned up. I also sprung a leak in the expansion tank (non ERA tank). Yes, I know that they are not related! Anyway, I can resolder the tank, but what about the resistor? I am using an Unilite Mallory Distributor.

P.S. Yes, that is correct ERA #574 and I am just starting it. Never rush a fun time!

[Bob Putnam]

Did the car have ignition before the ballast burned out? If not, disconnect the white wire at the starter solenoid (after replacing the ballast resistor, of course ) You can probably leave this wire off in the long term anyway. It's just to give the system a 12V shot during starting, and the Unilite usually doesn't need that.

If the car actually started, you probably just had a bad ballast resistor.

[R&B]

Bob,
Thanks for the help. I pulled the white wire and you are correct, I do not really need it. Unfortunately it turns out that the resister gets hot when I turn the ignition on before I start the car. It takes about 30 seconds to glow red. Fortunately, I decided to start the engine anyway and the resister has no problem when the engine was running. My guess is the under wire dash. I never really figured out how to wire the Smith tach. The tach seemed to work during the engine break in period until I turned on the lights (I was trying to hit the fan) and the tach went to zero. I was also anxious to break in the engine since it was rebuilt awhile ago (a long while ago) and so I cheated and did not connect the back wiring harness nor do I have any exterior lights. Unless you have any obvious ideas, I think I will finish the wiring, restudy the tach and try again later.

Thanks again.

[Bob Putnam]

Check the ground from the engine to the firewall. Maybe you're getting "feedback" somehow. If you have a voltmeter, check the value on the coil side of the ballast too. It should read 8-10V.