Club Cobra
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Show 20 post(s) from this thread on one page

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/)
-   -   Steering shaft play/ turn signal switch (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/138128-steering-shaft-play-turn-signal-switch.html)

wolf k 03-10-2017 05:33 AM
Steering shaft play/ turn signal switch
 
I am working on a customers ERA which has quite a bit of radial play in the steering shaft at the steering wheel. The upper nylon bushing is in place and appears to be in good condition. No wear on the shaft, just a lot of clearance between the two. Someone posted about shimming this bushing, I believe it was DanC? Can you describe where/how you shimmed?

Also the turn signal lever cancels too easily, have to hold the lever as you turn the wheel so that it doesn't cancel. The lever does latch, but very lightly. It does not take much force to cancel. Is there a fix, or just purchase a new one? Source of these switches for Cobras are all the same?

Thanks, Wolfgang

DanEC 03-10-2017 07:33 AM
As I remember I took some plastic blister pack film and cut a strip as shim stock to wrap the outside of the bushing with to tighten it up. I'm not sure I could go around 360 degrees and kind of had to experiment to trim it to a length that I could still seat in the column. It seemed to work at first but my wheel seems to have a little more play in it now so I'm wondering if it worked it's way back out.

My turn signal switch is kind of touchy - it doesn't have much space between the canceling positions and I worked to get it as centered as I could. Still, sometimes just a minor steering correction as I approach a corner like moving into a turn lane will cancel it. Is that their problem?

I replaced mine a couple years ago after the original had some contact problems inside. It's a VW part and I doubt a new one will function much differently. Also it will probably arrive in some ugly green-gray color and have to be sprayed to match the column.

There are a couple pictures of the internals in this thread but I don't know if they will be of enough detail to see if you can make your own correction or improvement.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...al-switch.html

wolf k 03-11-2017 05:15 AM
Got it I think, just to be clear, you removed the bushing and shimmed between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the column? the bushing must be split then, to be able to shrink it.
I am not able to lay eyes on at the moment it to confirm.

Interesting, nobody else having turn signal switch issues, I must have a weak one. Where did you source your new switch?

DanEC 03-11-2017 06:13 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf k (Post 1417838)
Got it I think, just to be clear, you removed the bushing and shimmed between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the column? the bushing must be split then, to be able to shrink it.
I am not able to lay eyes on at the moment it to confirm.


Yes, it was a piece of rectangular shim stock to fit between the bushing and the ID of the column. The original bushing is split. Here is an exchange with Bob on this issue a couple years ago. Not a lot of help to you but may give you some insight to the issue.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...lumn-play.html


Interesting, nobody else having turn signal switch issues, I must have a weak one. Where did you source your new switch?

Here is where I got mine.

VW Turn Signal Switch, 1966-67 Type 1, (Dimmer Switch Included!), 141-953-517F BK - Aircooled.Net VW Parts

It seems that I ordered from another source first and it was a real piece of garbage. There are apparently a lot of sources for new ones and they range from fairly nice to down right horrible. As a matter of fact I would call Bob first and ask if they have found a current source for these that they feel are good quality. I think I called this place up and talked to them and had them go through a bunch of them trying to find one they would actually sell to a family member with a clear conscious. It seems I remember there was a great variety in pricing also. The reason ERA couldn't help me out with a switch was because they said they didn't have a supplier for them at the time that they felt confident in the quality of them. Maybe they have found one now.
Good luck

strictlypersonl 03-11-2017 06:20 AM
The bushings came from a Triumph Spitfire. We eventually abandoned that system because the bushing quality went seriously south. On inspection, I'd have to throw half of them away out of the box. They were supposed to be basically preloaded on the shaft. They might be better now. There's a part number in the back of the manual.

Boat3 03-11-2017 07:22 AM
My turn signal lever cancels very easily as well, car only has 1,100 miles on it...

DanEC 03-11-2017 10:32 AM
Bob - what are you using now for a bushing? Is it interchangeable?

strictlypersonl 03-11-2017 03:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1417871)
Bob - what are you using now for a bushing? Is it interchangeable?
"Fraid" not. We changed the whole housing design to accommodate a standard moly/nylon bushing.

strictlypersonl 03-11-2017 03:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf k (Post 1417747)
Also the turn signal lever cancels too easily, have to hold the lever as you turn the wheel so that it doesn't cancel. The lever does latch, but very lightly. It does not take much force to cancel. Is there a fix, or just purchase a new one? Source of these switches for Cobras are all the same?
Thanks, Wolfgang
You can relocate the pins that do the cancelling:
1. Remove the steering wheel.
2. Remove the nut and steering wheel hub
3. There are two roll pins on the backside of the hub that trip the cancelling mechanism. Remove them.
4. Drill two new holes 90 degrees from the original location and install the pins there.

Consequently, when things are put back together, the cancelling pins will be at the top and bottom of the hub. It will take more rotation for the cancelling to take place.

DanEC 03-12-2017 05:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl (Post 1417890)
"Fraid" not. We changed the whole housing design to accommodate a standard moly/nylon bushing.
Bummer - but thanks.

wolf k 03-12-2017 06:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl (Post 1417891)
You can relocate the pins that do the cancelling:
1. Remove the steering wheel.
2. Remove the nut and steering wheel hub
3. There are two roll pins on the backside of the hub that trip the cancelling mechanism. Remove them.
4. Drill two new holes 90 degrees from the original location and install the pins there.

Consequently, when things are put back together, the cancelling pins will be at the top and bottom of the hub. It will take more rotation for the cancelling to take place.
Will do, sounds like a good plan

wolf k 03-14-2017 05:14 AM
Well, took a closer look at the turn signal lever. Definitely the issue is with the latching mechanism and not the cancelling pins. The latching detent is very weak and after taking the unit apart I do not see a good fix other than replacement.

DanEC 03-14-2017 07:56 AM
I would definitely call up a supplier and tell them you are looking for a better quality turn signal switch and see if they won't do a little quality control before sending one to you. I remember the first one I ordered off the internet operated like it was stirring rocks in a bucket. The second one seemed stiff at first but reasonably smooth - after it was mounted and the lever installed it operated fine. I also remember the prices were all over the board too and were not a reflection on quality.

wolf k 03-15-2017 05:17 AM
Thanks Dan, you got your good one from Aircooled VW, as in your link above? Happens to be the same price as the one from Finishline, surely these are from the same supplier.

DanEC 03-15-2017 07:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf k (Post 1418207)
Thanks Dan, you got your good one from Aircooled VW, as in your link above? Happens to be the same price as the one from Finishline, surely these are from the same supplier.
I would not bet they are from the same supplier. I think there are multiple foreign builders of these things for all the VWs built around the world over the 50 or so years. The one I used did come from Aircoolded VW. I don't think I checked with Finishline but they may be a good source. I wouldn't think they would be selling junky ones.

ERA has to come up with these for new cars so they may have a good source in hand now. A couple of years ago I think they were between sources and looking.

wolf k 04-01-2017 04:43 AM
Resolved the turn signal issue with purchase of a new signal switch. Did some research on the VW forums and most recommend a switch unit made by SWF, German made. It was a little pricey at $180, but works smooth and flawless. Terminal ends need to be changed to match ERA wiring.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...n/IMG_0107.jpg

ERA on the left SWF on the right

Also resolved the steering shaft play. Upon closer investigation, the nylon bearing had separated from the rubber bushing and was found loose, lower on the shaft. Superglued the bearing back into the bushing. Reassembled, all is good.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...n/IMG_0090.jpg

DanEC 04-01-2017 07:50 AM
I don't remember that rubber bushing but my nylon bushing was a loose fit also. There may have been a change in this over the years but I may have to check that out.

Good deal on the turn signal.

kevins2 04-02-2017 07:30 PM
Do you have the part number for the SWF switch?

Thanks.

wolf k 04-03-2017 05:27 AM
1966-1967 Volkswagen Beetle Turn Signal Switch - SWF W0133-1609437 - - PartsGeek.com

SWF switch ^

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vi...er=asc&start=0

Nice forum post about the switch ^

kevins2 04-03-2017 07:36 AM
Thanks much. I'm going to start by relocating the canceling pins as Bob described to eliminate the canceling too soon issue. For some reason, my switch works well and feels good for a right turn, but for left, it has a notchy feeling that you have to pass through (feels like forcing something). In the end, it works, but doesn't feel right. I'll see if I can figure out what's causing that when I take it off to relocate the pins.

Thanks again for the info. If I can't get mine to work better I'll just order this SWF switch and be done with it.


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:58 PM.
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Show 20 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: