Building ERA Slabside #3012 - Page 7

ACHiPo · #**121** (**permalink**) 10-09-2018, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewB

Thanks all!

@nwray - Lets see some pics!

@tgandy - It is a custom mix in an attempt to replicate the original Princess Blue color. I think its relatively close, but hard to say as I have not seen an original Princess Blue in person and this color seems to photograph very differently depending on light/angle. Either way, I think it looks damn good in person.

Dan, it has finally returned to my garage. With 3 ~3000 mile journeys under its belt in the past year it has more travel miles than I do so far.

I've seen your car in person and an original Princess Blue.

I think you done good, sir, real good!

AndrewB · #**122** (**permalink**) 10-11-2018, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

I've seen your car in person and an original Princess Blue.

I think you done good, sir, real good!

That's awesome to hear. Thanks!

nwray · #**123** (**permalink**) 10-12-2018, 03:18 PM

[quote=AndrewB;1452323]Thanks all!

@nwray - Lets see some pics!

Here ya go Andrew. If I'm not mistaken, isn't that your slabside in the background of the rearend shot of my car? My car was delivered to me back in Dec of 2017.

AndrewB · #**124** (**permalink**) 10-12-2018, 03:24 PM

Car looks great! Hard to tell, but I believe that is an FIA based off the gas cap.

AndrewB · #**125** (**permalink**) 10-17-2018, 10:25 AM

Quick update - I have not gotten a chance to turn any wrenches since the car's return, but I did pick up a NOS set of these original style gauges to match my tach and speedo.

otto · #**126** (**permalink**) 10-21-2018, 05:17 PM

Very nice build , can I ask where you bought your ignition switch and your dash knobs , they look like ford factory ones
thanks in advance Bob

AndrewB · #**127** (**permalink**) 12-14-2018, 04:07 PM

Update - I'm finally finishing up with the engine! I picked up these Buddy Bar valve covers some time ago, but someone along the way removed the baffles. I had a friend weld some back in, but that then necessitates using a 3/4" spacer to clear the roller rockers. Not pretty, but I really wanted to use those valve covers

.

It's time to get it on the hoist, install the flywheel, clutch, dial in the bellhousing and get the damn thing in the car.

Bob, apologies for the delay. They all came from ERA.

otto · #**128** (**permalink**) 12-14-2018, 05:26 PM

motor looks great

fintubi · #**129** (**permalink**) 12-15-2018, 08:53 PM

Looking good, Andrew! Very similar look to what's taking shape in my garage

AndrewB · #**130** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 12:03 PM

A little progress over the Christmas vacation. The bellhousing dialed in within spec. Unfortunately I found out I have the wrong clutch disc and had to order a new one. I need a 26 spline for the TKO, but I had a 10 spline meant for a toploader. I originally bought the kit when I was going the toploader route some time ago and didn't realize it was different. Anyway, new disc comes on Monday so I'm hoping to have the engine in the car in the next week or so.

If anyone needs a Centerforce DF 10 spline clutch disc, let me know.

DanEC · #**131** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 01:51 PM

Nice digital dial indicator. Guess I need to upgrade to one of those one day. It seems QuickTime bellhousings typically dial in OK out of the box - mine did too.

AndrewB · #**132** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 02:09 PM

Thanks Dan. Between rebuilding the rear end and the engine, the Mitutoyo digital indicator, caliper, mics, and Noga stand have certainly been well worth the expense for a non-pro as myself. I told my wife that the next one will be much cheaper as I already have all the tools. She was not amused

fintubi · #**133** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 05:43 PM

Looking good, Andrew!

I dialed in my QT bellhousing two weeks ago, and it was in spec as well. It probably helps that my block was new and therefore hasn't seen the sort of machining that could move the crank axis off the axis defined by the bellhousing bolt holes.

Do you find it's possible to get the driver's side valve cover on and off with the expansion tank bolted directly to the head? I've seen photos indicating that the tank was sometimes mounted on 2" standoffs. That appears to be primarily to clear a Weber installation, but it looks like it would improve valve cover access as well.

Bill

AndrewB · #**134** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Do you find it's possible to get the driver's side valve cover on and off with the expansion tank bolted directly to the head? I've seen photos indicating that the tank was sometimes mounted on 2" standoffs. That appears to be primarily to clear a Weber installation, but it looks like it would improve valve cover access as well.

Hi Bill,
No, I was not able to hang it over the valve cover as it was originally, in part due to having valve cover spacers, so I made some 1.5" spacers to push the tank more towards the front of the car and allow it to clear. The far right spacer I made slightly shorter (3/16th's shorter if I remember correctly) for the coil bracket. I've removed all the accessories from the front of the engine in preparation of installing it in the car so I can't get you a great picture right now, but this might give you an idea of what I did.

On the originals, it is an interesting design decision as it seems you would have to remove the tank in order to adjust the valves.

Hope this helps.
-Andrew

LMH · #**135** (**permalink**) 01-03-2019, 07:16 PM

Original McCord expansion tanks had small spacers between the head and the bracket. About 3/8" thick as I remember, though I'd have to take mine out and measure them to be sure of their size. There was also two different bracket/tank setups under two different Shelby part numbers, used for either single 4V induction or dual 4V induction.
Larry

ACHiPo · #**136** (**permalink**) 01-04-2019, 07:15 AM

Andrew,
One other thing to check is whether the throw out bearing fork geometry works with the QuickTime bell housing. I've heard from several people (including Peter and Doug) that a hydraulic TOB is required for the clutch to work right with the QuickTime at least on a 427. I don't know whether the slab side geometry is different.
Evan

RockBit · #**137** (**permalink**) 01-04-2019, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

Andrew,
I've heard from several people (including Peter and Doug) that a hydraulic TOB is required for the clutch to work right with the QuickTime at least on a 427. Evan

I'm running a QuickTime behind a Pond 427 block, (McLeod dual clutch) and the clutch fork works well.

AndrewB · #**138** (**permalink**) 01-04-2019, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockBit

I'm running a QuickTime behind a Pond 427 block, (McLeod dual clutch) and the clutch fork works well.

Thanks guys. I'll be using a hydraulic throwout bearing. If it ends up leaking like all the horror stories portray, then I'll look into switching over to a traditional fork setup. I'll definitely be using a clutch stop to prevent over extension which seems like the root of most of the issues I've read about.

desgros@vtlink. · #**139** (**permalink**) 01-05-2019, 08:55 AM

Andrew,

I did have a leaking hydraulic throw out bearing on my 289 Slabside. It was a HORROR! Should it happen again it will switched to a fork setup.
John

ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG

ACHiPo · #**140** (**permalink**) 01-05-2019, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desgros@vtlink.

Andrew,

I did have a leaking hydraulic throw out bearing on my 289 Slabside. It was a HORROR! Should it happen again it will switched to a fork setup.
John

ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG

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