Brake Light Question--Please Help!

snakeeyes · #1 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 07:34 PM

Bob P. (or anyone else out there), I am trying to get #329 ready for the 250-mile round trip to Austin next weekend for the third annual Texas Cobra Club meet. I just noticed my brake lights are not working. After a couple of hours of crawling around the car with a circuit tester, I think I have traced the problem to the two brake light switches under the car. It seems that both switches are bad, as jumping each of them causes the brake lights to come on.

My questions: First, who makes these switches, and what is the part #?

Also, will removing the switches cause brake fluid to leak out, and if so what is the best way to bleed it out?

Thanks to anyone who can help. I would consult my ERA manual but it's packed away in a box somewhere--

Bob

ST · #2 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 07:59 PM

Bob
I had the same problem a year ago. Give Bob P. a call at ERA and he'll send you a couple of the switches. The ARE pressure activated and do go bad after a while. They are easy to change and you won't loose too much fluid.

Whaler · #3 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 08:21 PM

I just installed one today as I am doing my brakes from scratch.
I used an echlin switch NAPA supplied
Echlin part # SL147
its a small round guy with 2 spades at one end 1/8 NPT male pipe at the other. Tested it at work and it actuates at 70 PSI. Its Normally open too.
Sounds like you could use it, depending on what you are taking out.
As you said shorting the switch gave you lights. Switch won't actuate for you on pressure.
Why 2??
I was told to pipe one into the back brake hydraulic CCT simply becuase thats where my painless wiring cct came out to terminate to a switch.

Hope this helps.

Tim

PS 18 bucks CDN up here ..... probably 12 at your side

Bob Putnam · #4 (**permalink**) 02-17-2002, 04:34 AM

Snakeyes,

The switches are VW Rabbit/Golf/Late Beetle. Part number 112 945 515G. You can probably find one at your local jobber (although I can send you a couple if you can wait).

You should be able to change them without having to bleed the calipers if you're carefull. Have the new switch ready to go as you're removing the old one. Instert it quickly a couple of threads and let it leak a little for a minute. Then tighten all the way. The brake lights will work with only one switch, so you can cheat a bit in the short term by only replacing one. It's nice to have a second switch for backup, eventually.

Have fun in Austin!

Whaler · #5 (**permalink**) 02-17-2002, 06:24 AM

The Echlin part is the Napa cross reference to the Volkswagen application #SLS-34. Which turns out as SL147

Seems to be used on many british sports cars as well( according to the Napa catalogue)

snakeeyes · #6 (**permalink**) 02-17-2002, 06:38 AM

Thanks a bunch, guys! This forum never disappoints. Where else can you post a question about a brake part on a Saturday night and have all the info you need by the time you get up the next morning?

Ya'll have a good one.

Bob

snakeeyes · #7 (**permalink**) 02-17-2002, 06:49 PM

Just wanted to say thanks again--went to the auto parts store this morning and they actually had one switch in stock (12 bucks--good call, Tim). Got home and had the brake lights back in working order less than fifteen minutes later. I wish every car-related dilemma was so cheap--and easy--to fix...

Bob

Whaler · #8 (**permalink**) 02-17-2002, 06:54 PM

Good to hear all went well.....

Tim