Gt-40 Cooling (or Lack Thereof).

[BLACKJACK]

THANKS BOB,

YOU'RE KIND LIKE THE DENTIST WHO INFORMS HIS PATIENT THAT "THE TEETH ARE FINE, BUT THE GUMS HAVE GOT TO GO".

IF IT'S THE WATER PUMP, - - THAT SHUTS DOWN THE GT-40 FOR ANOTHER SIX OR EIGHT MONTHS UNTIL THE NEW HOUSE IS BUILT. NO WAY I CAN DO IT IN A BURNED OUT GARAGE WITH NO ELECTRIC POWER, HOLDING A FLASHLIGHT BETWEEN MY TEETH. CHANGING TO THE NEW RADIATOR AND COOLING FANS THAT WAY WAS BAD ENOUGH.

ANY THOUGHTS ON MY OTHER QUESTIONS??

GIVEN THAT THE COOLANT/FILL TANK IS THE SAME HEIGHT AS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD DOES IT MAKE SENSE TO PULL PLUGS ON THE MANIFOLD?? IF SO, WHICH PLUGS??

DOES IT MAKE SENSE TO PULL THE RADIATOR AGAIN AND HAVE A PURGE VALVE INSTALLED ON THE TOP?? BY THE WAY - - THERE'S A REALLY GOOD IDEA FOR THE"NEXT GENERATION" OF "IMPROVED" RADIATORS.

IF I INSTALL ONE OF THE ELECTRIC WATER PUMPS - I HAVE TO "GUT" THE MECHANICAL WATER PUMP ANYWAY - IS THAT CORRECT??

IF THE PROBLEM WAS IGNITION TIMING:

1. WOULD THE H2O TEMP NOT COME BACK DOWN DURING LEVEL CRUISE??

2. WOULD IT BE SO DIFFERENT WITH A 30F CHANGE IN AIR TEMP??

THANKS, AND HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY,

BLACKJACK

PS: BOB - I'M NOT SURE YOU READ ALL OF MY EARLIER POST BUT, YES, I WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE THE IGNITION SWITCH. ANYTHING THAT GETS THAT HOT IN A CAR IS A PROBLEM.