Information overload

[fzabski]

I am looking for the experts opinion on my scenario understanding that I am getting opinions here and I ultimately have to make my final choice. Any help or opinions are openly welcome.

I have wanted a Shelby Cobra 427 for a long time. Realistically I am about 1-2 years away from swinging the entire deal. My goal is to buy a car every five years. I have a love affair with automobiles. I currently have a fully restored 1973 French Blue TR 6 and a 2001 Porsche Boxster S. I love both cars.

About 2.5 years ago I visited the ERA facility in New Britian. I live in CT so it wasn't that far. I was and still am blown away. I was breathless when I walked out. I have done alot of research, visited websites, bought the Complete Guide to Cobra Replica's, etc. and hands down ERA is the place for a fiberglass non Shelby Cobra 427 Kit car.

If I was to buy a non Shleby fiberglass car there is no question in my mind it will be an ERA for many reasons, quality, loaction, expertise, etc. Realistically I don't think I could ever afford a real Shelby Cobra 427. Even if I could I don't think I could fork out 250k + just on principal for a car.

I understand that these cars are a passion not an investment but I have to look at this purchase as a serious matter.

I know Shelby is producing aluminum and fiberglass bodied car, both at a premium. I have read that Shelby and most "real" Cobra owns look down on anything non-original. Personally I have a real issue with Shelby but his cars are the real deal and no one can't debate that.

These are my concerns in general abouting buying a Cobra. They are in no particular order.

Potential Cobra choices and approximate cost:
ERA 60 k +/-
Shelby Fiberglass 60-80K +/-
Kirkham Aluminum 100k +/-

Are these numbers correct?

My issue with a kit car in general is the it is a kit car. I could buy a new "Shelby" Cobra pay a lot more but I understand I am only buying his name. Is it worth? Do you think there will ever be an appreciation in Shelby's second generation Cobra's as with the originals?

What about the Kirkham car. It's fabulous from what I see and as close the the original as I have ever seen. Granted you pay for it.

Should I start buying "parts" such as the engine, tranny, wheels. tires, etc or just hold off until I get the car?

I would like your commentary on the above statements. Nothing will hurt my feelings as I am looking for the experts opinion.

[John 550]

you could own and drive an ERA for a lot less than 60 .

[fzabski]

Ok, give me your breakdown. I'm all ears.

[JWheaton]

Fzabski;

ERA
There are people with WAY more knowledge about ERA than I have but I will give this a quick stab.

The price question is all going to depend on what options do you want. Example -- Rear diff & IRS with inboard brakes will be roughly 3800, with outboard brakes 4500

Powder coated or not powder coated

bolt on wheels or pin drive wheels

This all before you get to the biggest question

What engine and transmission you going to have power this little bucket of fiberglass 302/351 or 390/428/427/460. Having been where you are and having good conversations with ERA the 390 will give you the big block look for a lot less bucks. It is your preference. Tranny -- top loader, tremac, richmond

Paint -- near show or show -- stripe -- no strip?

My build that I have priced out will cost me approximately 45k. I may be underestimating, but feel that I could do this.

Do you want them to build or are you willing to build?

Kirkham:
I have talked to them and have been told (most recently at the NY car show) that I could have one for around 80k. Their roller costs around 60k. You would have to add the engine and tranny. Most people who go with Kirkham go for it all and get 427 sideoiler -- .

Shelby
I don't spend to much time costing out their cars, so I will not say anything other than your figure looks about right for the fiberglass. I may be wrong on that, but again my interest is not with SIA. I like replicas for the replicas, not anything against the company or Shelby.

Hope this helps.

My strong suggestion would be to go back to ERA and talk further with the guys there.

[stush]

Your numbers seem about right from when I priced them over a year ago except that I don't think you could get into a CSX for 60+, closer to 80+ unless you are looking at 7000 series. Nonetheless, you may want to take a trip out to HRE in Freeport Long Island(close to Jones Beach) to check out CSX series. He also has usually has one Superformance he is servicing or even Snakepit Automotive is just around the corner(Superformance dealer). Seems you are being pretty thorough on the research end. Good luck.

Stu

[fzabski]

I think I have researched to much, that's the problem. Ideally, I want as close the the original car as possible down to the last bolt. I want show piant, stripes, wool carpet, smith gauges, etc. I undertand that especially with the ERA car that I might not want that. Their design takes the orignal shell and tweeks it with their own undercarraige modifications. Basically a better ar then the original. Ultimately I need to make a decison as to what I want. I am all over the board. I would probably go with a 428 Police Interceptor motor unless I come into a windfall of money. The 427 I'm sure is nice but that is something I can change anytime. I have also looked at the Genesis 427 block? There has to be a point of reality for me. I will never race this car nor probably even show it. I just want it! Utimately I want what ever amount of money I put into the car to stay stable. This is not an investment for me but I don't want to lose my shirt if I decide to sell.

[Bob Putnam]

With your own engine and trans, you should be able to come in well below $45K for the rest. The sample kits that I've posted don't need much more to come up to your spec's.

[DougD]

Just a comment on the Shelby fiberglass cars (CSX4000). The prices you posted are for a painted roller or dealer-built car. They also sell an unassembled car for much less. They start at around $32,000 and go up, based on options. The Shelby cars come pretty much complete, only needing engine/tranny and batteries to complete. I haven't seen a good comparison between the components included in various repliCobra kits, but I do know that there is a wide variation in just what is needed to complete each brand. Don't underestimate all the little details ($$$$) that will crop up during your build. I would guess, based on the info posted in this and other forums, that a typical repliCobra owner/builder has between $30,000 - $60,000 in their car, regardless of configuration or brand. I'm sure someone will chime in that they built theirs for less, but I would guess the car is not very original-appearing, or they were able to save by doing all the mechanical and paint/body work themselves. The closer you try to make the car to an original, the more $ you will have in one. I have much less $ in mine than you would expect based on the disinformation this forum spews on the Shelby cars. I will have mid-50's in mine when completed, with a 427 and 4-speed. The only variable for me is paint, as I haven't selected a shop yet. Shelby has a number of dealers. Do your homework by contacting each of them, and get a price quote for an unassembled car. It may surprise you.

If you value originality (as suggested by your comments above), the fiberglass CSX4000 is as close to a '60's original as you can get in fiberglass. The 'glass Shelbys are built by Shelby's crew in Vegas, not by Kirkham as others mistakenly post. Much of the cost of one of the new Shelbys is in the individual components. They share 98% of their parts with the originals. If you have ever priced genuine Cobra parts vs generic parts store replacements for Mustangs, Vettes, etc., you will see much of the difference.

I, for one, don't "look down on anything non-original". I enjoy the Cobra and all its clones. To each his (or her!) own. This forum would have you believe all CSX owners are stuck up. Not so.

As far as future value, no one really knows if the Shelby cars will appreciate. I'll be happy if mine just holds steady and doesn't depreciate. But if you look at which replicas command the highest resale prices, the more original-appearing the car, the more it usually brings in resale. Since they're the closest to original, it stands to reason thet they will hold more of their value.

By the way, ERA cars are known far and wide as being a quality car. I'm hoping someday to buy one of their GT40s. And Mr Putnam's reputation is as good as gold. You must weigh all the variables, as each person has a different set of needs and desires.

[Jim Holden]

DougD:

I had to read that a second time. At first I thought you said Bob P. was as good as mold... He sure has been around long enough.

Morty MacTavish

[GUMBALL]

DougD,

Excellent post in my opinion.

Regards,

John

[Turk]

I have seen him in person. If it wasn't for the facial hair, He is almost as good as "bold".

TURK

[Back in Black]

You said:
"The closer you try to make the car to an original, the more $ you will have in one. "

I can tell you that you can also spend a heck of a lot NOT trying to make an "original type".

RE: My West Coast cobra

[Lloyd GT40]

Bob P

How about a some price scenarios for the Gt40.

LLoyd

[Bob Putnam]

Ike,

I plan on putting in an appropriate section on the ERA web site after I finish a few "We needed it YESTERDAY!" projects.