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Fully understand the side-pipe heat issue. I believe I can exit the sheet metal cover front face and route inboard under the frame. This should offer protection from the pipes. I also have protective heat shield wrap if necessary. Patrick's hard lines probable route along the frame. My fix is temporary and hard lines are in the future.
In response to Cobra29, I found connecting the hoses to the reservoir in the engine bay above the foot box will give better clamp access. I replaced the hoses when I replaced the masters but again that was just to get back on the road. The reservoir had to be raised further from the top of the foot box to attach the clamps. That positioned the reservoir attachment holes out of alignment with the bracket. You could enlarge the foot box holes to clear the clamps and push them back into the cockpit. The bottom line for me is get them out of the cockpit. |
Patrick, did you install the hard line configuration? If so, does that mean you never did the BMW " all in one " reservoir installation. Hard lines are the best solution. There are master cylinders that do not require the hose barb insert on the upper body. They would allow all hard lines in the configuration. My hose to barb attachment is contacting the floor. No clearance.
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http://38.134.118.239/bline003.jpg http://38.134.118.239/bline002.jpg http://38.134.118.239/bline001.jpg |
I think I need to get some 1/4 tubing and come close to your configuration. It appears you routed the hard lines outboard of the pedal bell-crank and upper area of the sheet metal box. Clearance notch in the box ? Then you routed along the frame outboard surface before bending to vertical up to the reservoirs. I am thinking about staying outboard frame surface LOW and as far away from the pipes as possible before trying to follow the wheel well panel and once clear of the frame up to the reservoirs ?? I have not bent tubing since my Navy days on F8 Crusaders. Mostly double flare for AN fittings.
My alternate was to mount -4 AN to barb on the box and go hose to the masters and braided flex lines to the reservoir ? Correct, the tin can Girlings were on my CSX4000.........PITA rust and leak. Thanks Patrick |
Here's a photo of the brake/clutch line routing in the engine bays of newer cars, if it is of any help.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=9113 |
Thanks Kevin, That looks very good. I may try to stay on the outer surface of the frame before I bend up to the reservoir. The clutch tube would route on top like your photo. Did this configuration come from ERA or did you bend the tubes? If they are available pre-bent from ERA maybe they have them for sale ? That would insure perfect fit. Are they still using the Tiltons that would require a short segment of hose?
Loved George Carlin |
When I say the Girling reservoirs are a PITA, I mean it. It took me a couple or three or more years before a combination of Seal-All, Dorman rubber stoppers under the lid, and then custom cut top of the can "gaskets" (which you can see in my photo above and that start to look really nice after they sop up the brake fluid for a season or two) are actually made of orange Sham-Wow. Yep, the kids gave me a box of Sham-Wow for Christmas one year and that stuff works and looks great after it's been on the cans for a while. But, if I had to replace those reservoirs now, I'd use the new Moss Motors can here: https://mossmotors.com/tank-assembly-single-supply They look like they would hold up much better. Oh, and I always use the BLUE Ate SuperBlue Brake Fluid. You can't buy it in the states anymore, you have to order it from overseas. It makes identifying brake/clutch fluid puddles quick and easy.
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I thought the orange I see was rust not " Sham- Wow " . I had Kirkham billet reservoirs on the CSX.....not original but no leaks or corrosion. Nice to see the hard line upgrade on newer ERA's.
Always good to see your work. |
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I appreciate the photos. Will give ERA a call.
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Note that clutch fork has not been trimmed. Why would you have to trim the clutch fork you might ask? Because: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...-part-not.html
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Well, the clutch fork was provided by ERA and worked perfectly - no clearance problem.
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Mine is trimmed - you just couldn't see it in that photo at that angle. Here's a photo before I installed the engine.
http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f9230b2.jpg |
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...rkfinal001.jpg |
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Yep, nothing beats crawling under the car and eyeballing it.:cool:
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I talked to John at ERA and this is the photo of their three hard lines. They are available for sale. The two upper lines appear to have a configuration I can work with. I am having difficulty understanding how the lower line configuration would route. Looks extremely long with many bends?
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=17339 |
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