Let's talk engines...

[DonC]

Had my engine built by Joe Lapine at Danbury Competition Engines, one of ERA's recommended engine builders. I knew I wanted a 428 since it was a good choice for the cost vs bragging rights controversies. A 427 s/o would have been "swell" but, in my case, I got the car so I could drive it and the 428 struck me a a solid middle of the road engine.
Met with Joe on my first trip back to visit the folks at ERA and asked for his opinion on what it would take to build a 428 with 500 hp at the flywheel that would last for 100,000 miles. He told me it could be done but would be pretty expensive. On the other hand he said 450 and 100,000 could be accomplished with no exotic efforts. That was enough for me.
22,000 miles and 4 years later it's still running strong and has never failed me. Are there stronger cars out there? Sure, but I'm content with a great handling road car without having to worry about replacing parts that can only be found in the aero-space industry.
I look forward to many more happy (still grin when I drive it) miles before I have to start worrying about rebuilds.
DonC

[RICK LAKE]

RAO-3 Ray I'm not sure how must of a problem in NJ they could cause on the year of the car. IMO the FE stroker is the way to go. A 470-482 cubic motor in Aluminium is the way. Chaplin has one in his car. Sorry you could not have made the little cobra show at Washingtons Crossing. He would have taken you for a ride. As to what the other guys say forget the big HP numbers, It's not needed. The Car is 2,550 lbs. 400+ hp will give you a hell of a ride. A single 4 barrel carb works fine and is simple. Motor, you only want to do this once. IMO hydro cam shaft and lifters are just like any car you buy new. Solids are for racing and hard driving, not cruising and idling. You can get a larger hydro cam to give you the nasty idle. This IMO is the best way to go with minimum maintainance to the motor except for oil changes. Get a torque motor built not HP. This will be a streetable enjoyment. Specs on the motor would be from 9.2 compression to 10.5 compression. With the less compression in the motor, regulator gas is easy to run. Get a set of EDELbrock heads from KCR, stage 2 for the motor. IMO the biggest power killer in the cobra is the side pipes. About 25-50 HP is killed. The street pipes are quieter that race pipes. Race pipes are louder. Transmissions, superstreet 5 spd from Richmond. Comes with the overdrive for cruising. 2.87 first gear. Most guys with transmissions have low rearend gearing don't use first gear anyway. Torque moves the car, not HP. This is not the cheapest trans of 5 spds, but the strongthest and will not get hurt from a little abuse. Rearend gearing. First you want a posi, 3.31 gears with this trans and a torque motor will be perfect. 3.54's will give you a small accelleration advantage but make the motor run at a higher rpm when cruising. Cruising speed 65-80. DON'T lug the motor. It pounds the bottom end to death. FE's have heavy rotating assemblies over most other motors. This should give you an idea of where to start. Get the deal started and tell ERA you will get back to them on motor and trans combo. Which rearend are you going with, inboard or outboard brakes?? Have a nice trip to ERA. Take a camera and plenty of pictures to look at. Make a list of things to ask. Peter will walk you through the whole deal. There is a 90 day waiting period before anything is done. Rick Lake

[patrickt]

I can't take issue with anything Rick L. said -- and I dearly enjoy finding fault with Rick's posts. I don't think you can even get a "one-legged rear" in an ERA, they all come with Power-Lok LSDs, so don't worry about that -- just decide between inboard and outboard. Regardless of how your mechanical skill is now, there's a good chance that over time you'll become a pretty proficient Cobra mechanic, and the ERA outboard rear is fun to play with. The rods and sway bar are adjustable and the mechanical configuration of the entire rear is a simple, elegant design. Rick L. -- you never proffered an opinion on whether zerk-fitted U-joints were less strong than the "lubed for life" U-joints. What say you?

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by DonC

Had my engine built by Joe Lapine at Danbury Competition Engines, one of ERA's recommended engine builders. I knew I wanted a 428 since it was a good choice for the cost vs bragging rights controversies.
DonC

Hi DonC,

After speaking with Peter, I will also be going with one of Joe's engines. From what you have described, I'm looking for much the same type of engine. Thanks for your input!

Ray

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RAO-3

Hi DonC,

After speaking with Peter, I will also be going with one of Joe's engines. From what you have described, I'm looking for much the same type of engine. Thanks for your input!

Ray

Contact Joe earlier rather than later so he can be on the lookout for a quality 428 block. You want the extra webbing on the crank saddle. These blocks are no longer just lying around the junkyards -- he will find you one, but there is a certain element of "luck" involved and the sooner he knows you want one the better your chances are of finding it.

EDIT -- here are some shots showing you what I mean.

Normal crank saddle:


Extra webbing on the crank saddle:

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Contact Joe earlier rather than later so he can be on the lookout for a quality 428 block. You want the extra webbing on the crank saddle. These blocks are no longer just lying around the junkyards -- he will find you one, but there is a certain element of "luck" involved and the sooner he knows you want one the better your chances are of finding it.

EDIT -- here are some shots showing you what I mean.

Normal crank saddle:


Extra webbing on the crank saddle:

Ahh, okay, now I know what I'm looking for!

Peter was going to call Joe either yesterday or today; I will give him a call tomorrow to be sure he looks for the extra webbing. I appreciate the tip and the pictures!

Ray

[RICK LAKE]

RAO-3 Ray if Joe doesn't have one I might know where to get one. This guy might want to build it also. He's in NJ. There might be away aroung that date stamp in the block. Check with Ponds block maker or Genises. I think one have a stamped block. It's worth the checking and gives you a bill you will need for registration. Rick L. Ps How was lunch????

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

RAO-3 Ray if Joe doesn't have one I might know where to get one. This guy might want to build it also. He's in NJ. There might be away aroung that date stamp in the block. Check with Ponds block maker or Genises. I think one have a stamped block. It's worth the checking and gives you a bill you will need for registration. Rick L. Ps How was lunch????

Rick, you're not suggesting he try and pass a phony block-date stamp off on the Jersey Motor Vehicle guys are you?!? A brand new, shiny, all aluminum block dated 40+ years ago???? You don't think the inspector just might be a car guy?

[RAO-3]

I did speak briefly to Joe today and he does have a 428fe block with the reinforced webbing for me.

Is it normal for the engine builder to want 50% up front to do these engines? When I had my engine work done on my corvette, the builder didn't ask for anything until he was done.

Ray

[BossCER]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

RAO-3 There might be away aroung that date stamp in the block. Check with Ponds block maker or Genises. I think one have a stamped block. It's worth the checking and gives you a bill you will need for registration. l:

Pond is the mfg. that has a date code.
If the block is painted, I don't know that anyone (including an inspector) would be able to identify it as "non-Ford"