Let's talk engines...

[SoTxButler]

Rick,

I always enjoy your ramblings and learn a lot too. I have a 488" FE with a Doug Nash 5 spd. No overdrive, fifth is 1 to 1. First is 3.27. I just installed a set of gears that gives me a 2.36 ratio in the rear. You mention to be careful not to lug an FE. This new set of gears gives me 63 MPH at 2100 RPM's in 5th. At what RPM is an FE lugging? This new set of gears is very nice and the ratios feel very good. I had straight cut gears and the wine was unbearable, so these are helical cut gears. Needless to say, there is ample torque to pull whatever I want to pull, I just don't want to lug it down.

What do you think?

[blykins]

What do you mean lug it down?

If the oil pressure is good and the cam will let you, run it down as far as you want. That's what torque is for.

[SoTxButler]

Brent,

We think alike...just wondered what Rick thought was lugging down an FE.

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by Chaplin

Ray-
That is correct. Year of the block will determine what emissions equipment the engine must have on it. If you get yourself a 60s dated coded block, you will only need a pcv valve.

Thanks Chaplin for confirming what I thought about the NJ regs. Since the 428fe block will do what I want, why look for trouble by substituting a newer block?

Ray

[RAO-3]

Rick, interesting commentary about lugging the engine. Does this only apply to big block engines? Reason I ask is that it seems everyone says to try to run at the lowest rpm in order to reduce gas consumption, and no one ever mentions the possible problems with doing that.

[RodKnock]

I'm sure there are many machine shops and engine builders who have been stiffed over the years. And they want the other 50% before the engine is released to you. Personally, I think there should a 10% retention held for 30, 60, 90 days just to make sure there are REALLY no leaks and that the engine runs as advertised. Never gonna happen.

[RAO-3]

Thanks RodKnock and Jamie for your feedback about the engine; in one case I had the engine and in one case I was getting a new block with the corvette, but I had been dealing with this guy for a while so for all I know, he was giving me a break on that.

BTW, pls understand that I'm not complaining about it, just was not aware and so decided to ask the experiences of others.

Is there anything special I should ask Joe to do regarding this block, or would he know to properly check it out?

Ray

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by RAO-3

Is there anything special I should ask Joe to do regarding this block, or would he know to properly check it out?

Ray

Verify the current bore and find out how much larger it will need to become, if it does at all, clean it and magnaflux it for cracks and sonic check it for wall thickness. Joe should know.

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

... Joe should know.

Very good point! I guess my thinking about going with a good reputable builder such as Joe is that he knows these engines, and what needs to be done to get a good engine with a good hp and torque, so my hope was/is that he will do what he needs to do, and I will get an engine that suits the needs that I explained to him and Peter.

I will ask him about it just the same; if anyone can think of anything else I should ask, please let me know.

I will be calling him again today, and hopefully my engine build will be getting started shortly.

Ray

[RICK LAKE]

patrickt Come on Pat, You are going from big brother to little bother?I going to tell MOM. I knew one had a date code. I was not sure if the block was Aluminium or iron. I would n't get Ray into a pickle with NJ super techs. I also know where a couple of blocks might be for sale at a top price. He will have the motor painted anyway, so there will be no problem with inspection. I think Ray might be happier with a new block then a 35+ year old motor that we have no info on. I wrote before about sonic check and see the sheet on this block. We don't have a price. Jay Brown has his writeup in Car Craft with a 445 FE low buck Buildup. There is nothing wrong with a 390 and a storker kit to make a 445 motor. We are getting to fast here when the car is 9 months away. Rick L. We need to look at transmissions, rearend gearing, Oh BOY IS THIS GREAT!!!!

[Chaplin]

Ray-
One of the things you might want to talk to Joe about would be using a stroker crank (can't have too much torque) and running a hydraulic roller cam shaft.

[RalphSchmalph]

Speaking of engines. Maybe this is a little off the point but my new BDR is going to have a 342R installed. It's polished. I read somewhere on this site that a polished engine runs hotter because it retains engine heat more than a simple iron or aluminum block. Is that true? It's not too late to get another engine. The car won't be ready until the end of the month.

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by Chaplin

Ray-
One of the things you might want to talk to Joe about would be using a stroker crank (can't have too much torque) and running a hydraulic roller cam shaft.

Thanks for the tip! Peter also mentioned that to me when I visited with him over the weekend. I have it on my "shopping list"

Ray

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Ray, you are three hours away from ERA (I don't know what direction). Did you get a second or third quote for a 428/427 big block? There must be another engine builder closer to you that you can talk to. I'm not saying "don't go with Joe", just keep your options open until you educate yourself just like you did with the car itself. When I ordered my car Peter told me about Danbury Comp., but I had my own guy who I trusted (he built my Corvette small block and specializes in truck and deisel engines). My 428 started life as a 390 bored .080 over with a 428 (1U) crankshaft and flywheel. My engine runs great and cost me under 5000 bucks. Someone previously posted info (above) about a 390 stroker (445?) that made good power and great torque. I'm also aware that SCAT makes a stroker kit for the 390/427 engines. Kieth Craft also makes FE engines to suit your needs and is highly regarded as a master with Ford big blocks. All I'm saying is talk to some people before you write any checks. Good luck.

[cobra]

RAO-3

Don't forget to talk with George Anderson from Gessford about your desired engine, he's always great ideas.

http://www.gessford.com/

Gessford Machine Inc.

701 West South street

Hastings, NE 68901

402-463-9844 or 800-829-3448

[DonC]

Ray:
Joe has been building engines for a long time so, when you have something you want to try out, get his opinion on it. He built my 428 for me 4 years and 22,000+ miles ago and it's still running strong.
When I first stopped to see him I told him I wanted to try for a big block with 500 hp at the flywheel and 100,000 miles before I had to worry about rebuilding it. He mentioned that, while it could be done, it would be fairly expensive. If I could settle for 450 at the crank with 100,000 mile druability he could do it easily. I went with his suggestion and haven't looked back.
DonC

[RAO-3]

All good suggestions.

I will do some talking to some others, including the builder of my previous engines to see what they all have to say/offer.

I also ordered the two engine books listed on the ERA site - it's been quite a few years since I did anything with a ford block and they were all small blocks.

Ray

[RICK LAKE]

RAO-3 Ray Chaplin gave you 2 ideas to think about with the stroker kit, which will give you over 500ft. of torque and the maintainance issue of hydro roller lifters and rockers(ERSON). Don't worry about the HP. You want a very easy car with good drivibilities. Great power for a stop sign take off, starts rightup any time of the year, easy maintainance, and something that puts a smile on your face that your wife will not understand. Time for you to go back to school and brush up.. You only have 8 months and 26 days. Rick L.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RAO-3

I also ordered the two engine books listed on the ERA site - it's been quite a few years since I did anything with a ford block and they were all small blocks.

Cobras are amazingly simple cars. You will be able to do 99% of your car's maintenace with the following basic tools -- most of which are already in your basement:

Basic wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, crowfoots, & torque wrench

Timing Light & Inductive Tach that work with MSD units

Vacuum gauge

Low profile aluminum racing jack

Volt Ohm Meter

Lead Hammer

Oil filter Wrench & Grease Gun

RTV -- (your FE will leak)

[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Cobras are amazingly simple cars. You will be able to do 99% of your car's maintenace with the following basic tools -- most of which are already in your basement:

Basic wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, crowfoots, & torque wrench

Timing Light & Inductive Tach that work with MSD units

Vacuum gauge

Low profile aluminum racing jack

Volt Ohm Meter

Lead Hammer

Oil filter Wrench & Grease Gun

RTV -- (your FE will leak)

I have to laugh; I got rid of some of these tools several years ago as I had no use for them on the "newer cars", such as the timing light, inductive tach. Isn't that the way it works?

Ray