Discolored FE pushrods

[RICK LAKE]

Eljaro Lets start with the rockers, I have been through dove rockers and problems. The best I can tell you is this,
If you are running rockers with out bushings or grooves in the center of the rocker bodies, either go with no orifaces or .120" hole for oil control. This is with running the shields for the rockers. You have to remember that the valve springs product alot of heat and the oil is the only thing to cool them off. Also have 1 extra quart of oil in the pan. I ran the same rocker bdies as you without any bushing or bearing. This grooveing the center of the rocker body with a dremel tool worked the best to extend the rockers live. This is for a street motor, NOT a track motor. Line up the rocker to the holes in the shaft and cut a .030" groove all thge way around inside the rocker body. If you are looking for a little extra oil to the pushrod rocker contact point drill a .010" through the rocker body. I had broken shafts and rockers that where oblonged on the shafts from racing before I changed to FULL roller rockers ERSON. If you get some extra money this is one of the better ways to go.
Full roller rockers can get by with .060" orifaces in the oil port, but I have seen blueing of the pushrod ends from hard driving or racing. IMO this is good for 1/4 mile racing ONLY. The min for racing and street is .080" with Erson. Tjhis is what I have been running for 3 years and no problems. I also have a HVHP oil pump with 100 psi spring. The motor runs with 70-80 psi pressure after getting to operating temps. Startup can be 135psi cold. Just let the FI system control the idle and cold start. Go with an .080" oriface and get a bottle of Lucas oil suppliment for the motor. It has a clinging effect for all the internal parts and prevents dry starts.
As far as retorqueing head nut of bolts, I don't do this after assembly. This is for either a Shelby block or FE motor with 1020# felpro gaskets. I use HI-TAC on all my gaskets and have had no failures to date with 12 years of racing the same motor. The HI-TAC is a pain to remove from surfaces but prevents leaks. If you are running head bolts or studs into water holes in the block you need to have sealer on the threads of the bolts or studs.
The torqueing of the head goes from the center 4 bolts out wards. Go to 40 pounds to start and add 10 lbs until you hit the spec you are looking for. DON'T over tighten aluminum heads, they will crush around the bolt holes, even with washers to spread out the holding loads. If a nut of bolt is loose, it's possible that the threads have pulled in the block. I have gone through this and replaced helicoils with timeserts in my CSX#58 motor. No problem since this was done. Sorry for long wind. Once put togeather you should n't need to retorque the head bolts or intake manifold bolts, this is even after a couple of heat cycles to the motor. Recheck to spec but not tightening. Rick L.