Discolored FE pushrods

[RICK LAKE]

Eljaro These SCE gaskets are similar to what we used 30+ years ago on track cars. The different was high compression and motor tear down after every race. We also used "O" ring blocks and heads. IMO these are still racing head gaskets. They need to be torque until there is no more tightening of the fastener. This also must be done when the motor is cold. We paint marked the nut and studs to check adjustments. Here's the thing, these are still a solid gasket with a compression ring between sheets of gasket. Copper will compress but will not expand as well. This is the reason for copper sealer from Pematex to be sprayed on some gaskets like exhaust because of heat temps. We used red hightac on all head gaskets as I still use 30+ years later. You will not lose compression in the motor for a while but down the road these gaskets will start to fail. We never used them in street motors. The heat cycles are going to take there toll.
You really need to find out where the oil is seeping from. My feeling is that the silicone on the gaskets is not thick enought to stop the oil or coolant from seeping over heat cycles of the motor. If the surface is too smooth you will have a sealing problem too. I doubt that your machinist polished the surfaces of the heads or block.
They sell a kit for about $40.00 that comes with a dye in it for finding leaks under a black light. Works great for external leaks. You add the dye to the oil or coolant depending on what is leaking, road test for 5-20 miles. and use the light to find the leak. IMO and after beating on my 452 motor for 7+ years and running 1020 felpro gaskets I have had no failures. They where torqued 1 time on assembly that that was it. My motor does have larger studs and nut with larger heavy washers to give better clamping power of the gasket. The gaskets are also sprayed with high-tac and allowed to dry. I do 2 light coats. The one small issue is the gaskets bleed the first couple of heat cycles. after that the problem is gone. I have 5 years on the 482 motor with a cheap set of Mr. Gasket head gaskets, they have felpro stamped on them along with 1020 embossed in the surface. Paided $30.00 for the kit. Here's the thing, that motor doesn't know if it is running $200.00 head gaskets or $30.00 gaskets. The issue is about sealing 2 surfaces togeather and having no leaks. The material differents is huge between the 2. Without the added sealer applied to the surface of the gaskets from SCE you are going to have leaks over time. To help a coolant leak I would add Del/cool ( the orange stuff from GM or Ford) It come with alot of silicone in it for sealing aluminum motors for long periods of time. GM also made a suppliment coolant tablets for Caddie motors to help seal small leaks. This is for COOLANT LEAKS ONLY. Oil is a whole different liquid. A sprayon sealer or thin coat of RTV (gray) and let skin is the only way to control an oil leak around the oil return holes ONLY, without running external drains from the heads to the block or a dry sump system. I don't do this because of the compression different between RTV and spray on Hightac. Only a machine can get a 1/32" bead for a perfect seal. My hands and eyes are not that great any more. Rick L.