locking header bolts for big blocks....

[undy]

With regards to the "split bolt" design ... I had used a set of them, made by Breslin in my case. They repeatedly loosened up, The center set screws also seized up. A couple would not contract and I was forced to back them out expanded. As mentioned in an earlier post, it resulted in severe thread gauling on a aluminum head small block Chebby that I had in a work truck.

[RICK LAKE]

dlotz D any chance of getting a first name? I have used allen head bolts with safety wire on them and have had not problems. This is for all motors. I also use any sieze on the bolts. The 2 inside bolts on the first and last tube get hex bolts that are also wired. You can wire above or below depending on the look you want to see. Pliers, wire and drill plate to drill each bolt. You also have to remember that running an aluminum head there is alot of expansion and contraction with a heat cycle. It is easy for the bolts to come loose. I tryed studs in the heads and nuts with scrated backs. They chewed up the header flanges and the nuts came loose after each heat cycle. I use cotter pins to keep the nuts from falling off the motor. Some guys have good luck with LOC-TITE hi temp hi strength. You may need to customize a wrench to get the inner bolts torqued to spec. Rick L. Ps what every way you go, DON'T install the bolts without a antiseize if the heads are aluminum. I would do this with steel too.

[dlotz]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

dlotz D any chance of getting a first name? I have used allen head bolts with safety wire on them and have had not problems. This is for all motors. I also use any sieze on the bolts. The 2 inside bolts on the first and last tube get hex bolts that are also wired. You can wire above or below depending on the look you want to see. Pliers, wire and drill plate to drill each bolt. You also have to remember that running an aluminum head there is alot of expansion and contraction with a heat cycle. It is easy for the bolts to come loose. I tryed studs in the heads and nuts with scrated backs. They chewed up the header flanges and the nuts came loose after each heat cycle. I use cotter pins to keep the nuts from falling off the motor. Some guys have good luck with LOC-TITE hi temp hi strength. You may need to customize a wrench to get the inner bolts torqued to spec. Rick L. Ps what every way you go, DON'T install the bolts without a antiseize if the heads are aluminum. I would do this with steel too.

Rick
I have origional Irton MR heads, and yes I applied antiseize. I too have a mixture of bolts. The lower bolts are shorter that the ARP stainless ones I used on top because they bottom out unlike the top bolts.

I am thinking I will go with the safety wire look.

Does anyone have any pictures of the origionals with safety wire?

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by dlotz

Rick

I am thinking I will go with the safety wire look.

Does anyone have any pictures of the origionals with safety wire?

I don't know if this was "original" but it would be the method for the time. Someone with better knowlage of the history may be able to chime in.

The "look" is more based on the rules of properly saftey wiring the bolts than how someone did it (right or wrong) 45yrs ago. Especially if your pliers can only do a single direction twist.

[dlotz]

[quote=RICK LAKE;1034646]dlotz D any chance of getting a first name? QUOTE]

Sorry Rick

name is Dan