Which Flywheel?

[FatBoy]

I have a choice of 2 flywheels for my 427 FE. One is a cast item weighing around 20lb and the other is a McLeod steel item weighing around 37lb. Which one should I use?
I have a Lakewood bellhousing, so the cast flywheel doesn't pose a threat to my ankles if that was the best choice.

My immediate thought would be to go for the steel flywheel, but it weighs almost twice as much as the cast item.

Paul

[FUNFER2]

Look into the McLeod aluminum flywheel. Keith Craft sells them in house or look up his site and products on ebay. Billet steel would be my next choice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[blykins]

I would always advise using a good billet flywheel.

If you don't have one, I have good pricing on McLeod, RAM, and PRW flywheels. All good quality.

If you're not using a 11.5/12" pressure plate, I have access to some lightweight billet steel flywheels that are inexpensive.

For most applications, a heavier steel flywheel is just fine, especially with a Cobra that's running higher rearend gears and a cam that's a little on the rowdy side. I've ran aluminum wheels in Cobras and you can tell the difference when you're taking off from a dead stop.

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by blykins

I would always advise using a good billet flywheel.

If you don't have one, I have good pricing on McLeod, RAM, and PRW flywheels. All good quality.

If you're not using a 11.5/12" pressure plate, I have access to some lightweight billet steel flywheels that are inexpensive.

For most applications, a heavier steel flywheel is just fine, especially with a Cobra that's support higher rearend gears and a cam that's a little on the rowdy side. I've ran aluminum wheels in Cobras and you can tell the difference when you're taking off from a dead stop.

Hey Brent,
Elaborate on what the "difference" is if you would, lots of opinions on steel vs. arruminum...curious to hear your thoughts.

[blykins]

You can tell that there's no momentum (rotational inertia? rotational momentum? It's been awhile since I had this terminology in my engineering courses) with an aluminum wheel. I had a Fidanza 14lb wheel behind the 428 in my Cobra. I noticed that I had to slip the clutch more taking off from a deadstop to keep the motor from bogging....compared to the steel flywheel that I had. It seemed like the steel wheel would almost let me just let the clutch out without giving it any gas from a dead stop.

I think for someone that's driving predominantly on the street, there's no need for an aluminum wheel. For what it's worth, it could lengthen the life of the clutch.

They are also quite a bit more expensive. A good billet steel wheel is around $200 while the aluminum wheels start at $330. A McLeod aluminum flywheel is closer to $500 I think.

[FUNFER2]

Talk to Brent (blykins) here. He'll have everything you need at great prices and is very knowledgeable.

[undy]

Dunno, A rev-challenged FE in a <2500 car sure is a recipe for an aluminum flywheel IMO. I like the snappier spool-up too

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by undy

Dunno, A rev-challenged FE in a <2500 car sure is a recipe for an aluminum flywheel IMO. I like the snappier spool-up too

My feelings exactly. And some say that a lighter flywheel in a Cobra is actually safer during fast, hi-rev shifts, in that you're less likely to break your rear loose unexpectedly. Considering most of us will be going in to third at around 70, and in to fourth right around 100, that's something to keep in the back of your mind.

[vector1]

c. aluminum or lightweight flywheel clutch setup. anything else and you might as well drive an automatic. pick the lighter of your choices.

[Jon Miller]

I'm running a used $50 aluminum wheel behind a 428 with a Performer RPM cam (very lumpy idle) and I have no complaints. While teaching my 16 year old to drive a stick I told her that in our Cube you step on the gas, then let out the clutch. It the Cobra you let out the clutch, then step on the gas........Not exactly scientific, but it seems to me that lighter is much more better than heavier in our cars. You can quote me on that

Good Luck,
Jon

[blykins]

Everyone has their opinions and preferences....just sharing mine.

I'll be more than happy to sell the $500 flywheels.

[Tim Brewer]

Heavy flywheels are designed for heavy cars.

[blykins]

Keep in mind that there are different weights of aluminum flywheels...

FE Stuff....

Fidanza - 14 lbs
RAM - 20 lbs
Centerforce - 19 lbs
McLeod - 18 lbs

There's a big difference between a 14 lb flywheel and a 20 lb flywheel.....and it has a great affect on how the engine behaves down low.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

Keep in mind that there are different weights of aluminum flywheels...

FE Stuff....

Fidanza - 14 lbs
RAM - 20 lbs
Centerforce - 19 lbs
McLeod - 18 lbs

There's a big difference between a 14 lb flywheel and a 20 lb flywheel.....and it has a great affect on how the engine behaves down low.

Why did my Centerforce aluminum flywheel cost twice as much as all the others?

[blykins]

Well, the only one that it's probably twice as much as is the Fidanza....the RAM and McLeod wheels are closer to $500. The Fidanza is an excellent buy if you need something extremely lightweight and it has multiple pressure plate patterns on it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, the only one that it's probably twice as much as is the Fidanza....the RAM and McLeod wheels are closer to $500. The Fidanza is an excellent buy if you need something extremely lightweight and it has multiple pressure plate patterns on it.

Well it was five years ago now, and I think I paid like $700 for it. I used all Centerforce clutch/flywheel components. I don't know why either, Centerforce stuff just seems over-priced.

[blykins]

McLeod stuff is expensive too, but it's good stuff. Not saying the C/F stuff isn't, but after all the stuff I've read about people having trouble with the counterweights, I wouldn't recommend their plates to a new customer. Guys remove the counterweights, but then you lose a lot of clamping force at rpm and you're right back to the capacity of a stock-ish clutch kit.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

McLeod stuff is expensive too, but it's good stuff. Not saying the C/F stuff isn't, but after all the stuff I've read about people having trouble with the counterweights, I wouldn't recommend their plates to a new customer. Guys remove the counterweights, but then you lose a lot of clamping force at rpm and you're right back to the capacity of a stock-ish clutch kit.

Yeah, we pulled those weights off -- I always thought they were kind of a gimmick anyway. Oh well, WTF....

[blykins]

For around 450-500hp, RAM makes a great clutch kit. It's about $275.

Best buy right now for a 500-550-ish hp car is a RAM Powergrip. The pressure plate won't break your leg and the disc isn't that aggressive. Off the top of my head, it's like $325-330 and comes with the throw out bearing and installation tool. The equivilent in a McLeod would run about $450.

Best buy for around 600-650hp would be the Powergrip HD, but it uses a sintered iron/sintered iron disc which is a flywheel eater. If the car sees a lot of strip time, this one isn't bad, but if it's street, then I'll usually recommend a McLeod setup with an 800 series Kevlar disc.

Over 650hp, it's a McLeod RST twin disc setup.....or if it's strictly a drag car, then it's a RAM adjustable pressure plate and a metal disc. Fun stuff.

Y'all have a good night....I'm heading to bed. Don't forget to set your clocks forward one hour.

[PLDRIVE]

Brent what's your thoughts on the RAM street twin Disc? I have one on my car and love it, but it doesn't seem to come up very often during clutch recommendations.